Home Improvement Today?

12-2 will probably be a little tight through a 3/8" hole - it should fit though.

As for conduit, it depends. Will any Romex be exposed, or will it all be inside a wall? Conduit if exposed, not needed if in a wall.

 

Through the block/brick, weatherproof box will be mounted directly to the outside wall.

 

Done! Customer is still shopping for solar light post caps. They added the gate for the dog.

 

Something I've always wanted to do since moving in, but never did it. I finally removed the old clunky shower door and put up a regular shower curtain and liner.






Yes, I know the tile is severely outdated and the grout looks nasty. The tile is staying, but will get re-grouted here eventually.

Also bought a new vanity faucet to install tomorrow. The one on there now has had a slow drip for a while, but now is dripping every 10 seconds or so. Could I have put in another seat and spring, yea, but it's some crappy builder grade faucet. For the replacement I went with another Moen in the same finish to match the kitchen faucet. Didn't want to dive into it today as I need to replace the pop-up drain and that's gonna turn into a shit show. Also need to re-caulk the tub, but want to do that earlier on in the day. Says 4 hours to be able to get wet, but I want to let it set longer than that.

 

I hate those slider doors, i ripped the ones out on last place, just seems to open the bathroom more. And the doors are a pain to clean

 

Since the glass is the way it is I had a quick method for cleaning those. I used a fine scotch brite and the liquid version of Bar Keepers Friend. Cleaned all the residue off of it quickly. Since I have a water softener it didn't get a build up frequently.

There was supposed to be a gasket on the bottom, but it was missing. Their solution was a thick bead of caulk. No wonder there's a spot in the floor where it had been leaking at one time.

 

I stopped by Lowe's today but didn't see anything that looks like it might be a replacement part. Where would you suggest I look for it next?

 

Drill a few small holes and chisel out the big stuff. Goes easy once you get started.

Edit. Ignore this, I thought you were mounting the box inside the brick.

 

Couple recent things. Replacing a Joist and subfloor, replacing a collapsed sewer line to the main, and replacing some sub floor/carpet with a cheap ass linoleum entry way. Replaced all the hose spigots with updated frost proof ones but I didn't take any pictures. I was just happy to be done with that.

 

When I did my ring floodlight camera I tapped into an existing outlet in the garage and ran romex over the attic and through the front of the garage into this junction box. I got a few plugs at Lowes or HD (can't remember which) to close off the extra knockout holes. I used a small piece of conduit only where the romex pokes through the house and into the box, but the rest of the romex was just stapled along the way. I also used those blue tap con screws to hold the junction box to the front of the garage. Zero issues since installing it a few years back.

$11 Sigma Electric, Bronze 143854BR 1/2" 5 Hole Round Box, Size

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-Electric-143854BR-2-Inch-Bronze/dp/B00BVB66F0

 

Hi guys/gals.

I have been posting up tidbits of my deck rebuild in the +50 thread, lots of knowledge in there but I'm at a point, trying to fix a mistake that I made recently. It was suggested that I post it up in the 'home improvement' thread so here it goes.

Long story shortened up- I removed a bit too much material on the very end of the deck beam with my new power planer. I ended up taking a bit more then 1/8" of material off, all in an attempt to get the outside joist to sit flush across the double 2x10 deck beam. I took a bit too much off.



The paint stirring stick is .140 thick, so in-between 1/8" and 3/16". This leads to the next issue.


5/4 deck plank has about a 5/16" gap above the joist.. It's way too much to drawn down with the deck screws that I intend to use to anchor the deck boards.



Eyeing down the joists, the 3rd one down is higher ( wider ) then the ones around it, so I could take it down a tiny bit with the planner but I'm not convinced that it would be enough. The joist material ( and general lumber quality) that I have around me is shit at best. I've seen lumber at a commercial yard that looked worse then the garbage that is sold at Lowes and HD.

My questions are- how do I un-fuck this, or at least get it very close to "right" and not be an eye sore? This outer joist will have the stairs attaching to it, so it's out in plain site. MY first thought was to add some sort of shim under the bottom of the joist to raise it up a bit. Another was some sort of shim under the deck beams until I get to the mid section of the joist where things are on a much better plane.

I had thought of getting a 2x10 and ripping it in a fashion so that I get the lost height back at the end where I need it.

A buddy suggested using shim, but then adding a trim board up tight against the bottom of the deck planks to visually hide the shim.

I don't know, I'm open for suggestions, short of removing all of the joists and building another deck beam.

 

Home Depot had a Black Friday sale for the PEX expansion tool by Milwaukee and I’m invested in the system now. Should be a great long term investment

 

Id cut a shim to size and put it under the joist if you worried about it rotting use a piece of trex or plastic to lift it, trim the other high joist down

 

Take the piece to the original manufacturer or a local window shop. Each manufacturer uses different sizes

 

I guess this was my main concern. From what the internet says (cause it's always true), you should drill through the mortar for lightweight items and through the brick for heavy items. I think I'm going to try to line up the box so that the holes will all be through the mortar.

 

This ^^

Or a plastic shim. If you haven't planned on it, I'd also recommend joist tape on the joists.

 

I only paid $60 for mine, but if you are doing this more than once (drilling masonary), I highly recommend. I have a cordless hammerdrill, which is nice, but it's no replacement. This is $ well spent if you can get a coupon/etc and get it for $70.

 

Probably accurate.

But drilling through brick is a bitch - most bricks are very hard.

Mortar will hold the box without issue.

If needed, you could drill holes in the box, and run the mounting screws there. That way, you can get the box where you want it, independent of the factory mounting holes.

 

The shelving in my garage that is against the brick were all Tapcon screwed into the brick. I had no issues drilling into it, but I had my old DeWalt 18v hammer drill to do all the work. Now, if you have a regular drill and a masonry bit, yea good luck

 

can you not shim under the low joist bringing it into plane with the rest ?