What do you access cab owners do for a cab roof rack?

I want to put on a cab roof rack. As you know the access cab does not have factory attachment points like the double cab. I do not really want to drill. I am flabergasted by the price of a set of Thule or Rhino bars. Do any of you use the universal bars? I am looking for ideas here.

 

From what I've seen drilling is the way to go. If its done right then there should be no problem. Roof racks are expensive in general and you typically get what you pay for. If I were you I would just ditch the roof rack idea and go with some sort of bed rack.

 

Use the bed. Don't have an AC, but I think those guys use the bed to carry stuff or use bed bars or use a cap with cross bars and a rack on the cap.


Roof racks do look better on Double Cabs.

 

Thule or Yakima if you don't want to drill. Long term, these clamps will slightly deform your door weather seals.

Otherwise, drill, rivnuts and sealant.

 

I do nothing. My rack is on my Leer 180 cap.

 

Disclaimer: I am new to this and know nothing about any types of platform-style roof racks, sport bars, or anything else that bolts onto a truck.

Count me in as I have been entertaining the idea of a roof rack for my yet-to-be-delivered AC 6MT 4x4. For a decent rack, there is no getting around drilling, but a decent kit like the one from Victory for the AC does include what you need to complete the job without messing it up.
https://www.victory4x4.com/product/VT23RK.html
I'm not hooking anything to the weather seals.

Regardless of how you feel about a Victory rack, the video nicely covers drilling the channel and installing the included rivnuts using the included rivnut tool.

• Drill bit stop collars for both the 1/8" and 23/64" bits are not optional from my perspective.
  $8 Drixet Drill Stop Bit Collar Set – Kit Includes: 1/8", 3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8”, 7/16” and 1/2" with Allen Wrench to Tighten The Stops Set-Screws (7-Piece)
  https://www.amazon.com/Drixet-Drill-Stop-Bit-Collar/dp/B073VS72R3
• As mentioned, apply RTV liberally, both under the foot of the mounting bracket and inside the hole to prevent leaks.
  $7 Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, Sensor Safe And Non-Corrosive, For High Flex And Oil Resistant Applications 3 oz
  https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U
• If I had concerns about the provided rivnut tool, I might opt for a better one.
  $53 16" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit Threaded Riveter Professional Long Handle Threaded Insert Tool with 11 Interchangeable Mandrels and 55 Pcs Rivets Nuts
  https://www.amazon.com/Setter-Professional-Threaded-Interchangeable-Mandrels/dp/B07BF8FZ2Z

If you work slowly and carefully, use tape and drop-cloths to protect the paint, and test-fit with the unit loosely assembled to get the correct positions for the bracket holes, the process should go well enough.

It doesn't look like DV8 sells a rack for the AC.

Prinsu:
https://rooftopoverland.com/product...-access-rack-2005-2022?variant=43473688264927


UpTop Overland:
https://tacomabeast.com/products/alpha-tacoma-access-cab-roof-rack-2005-2021

Hooke Road:
https://www.hookeroad.com/products/tacoma-access-cab-roof-rack-for-toyota-tacoma-bxg4021
Same deal, though: "This Tacoma Access Cab Roof Rack requires drilling and installation of rivet nuts."

I have no idea which rack is the best quality. The Prinsu version appears to have the lowest profile.

Also, I assume platform-style roof racks are a pain with regard to clearing snow off of the roof, even when empty.

ETA: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prinsu-vs-victory-4x4.610858/

 

Don't be afraid to drill. Do it properly and you'll be fine and will have no leaks.

Not an AC, but had to drill on my DC.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/install-rhino-rack-vortex-rlt600-roof-rack.624050/

 

Be very careful drilling.

My headliner started coming apart (before I even drilled) took it to the dealer a couple weeks after I drilled the roof to try and get it warrantied. They said I caused the damage when I removed the headliner, which I didn’t do. Asked them why there were metal shavings on the headliner if I had removed it. They said they didn’t know but it was my fault. Warranty denied.

 

We don't need no roof rack - we got a 6 foot bed.

 

I get it - neither would I. But if my only option was to drill then I would seal the rivnut with the most durable caulk I could find AND I would use this style rivnut:
https://www.mcmaster.com/rivnuts/thread-sealing-closed-end-rivet-nuts/
It's a closed end rivnut - water would not be able to enter if it were to seep past the threads.

 

I just put a uptop alpha on my access cab. What did everyone do with the rubber trim after the install?