Long Travel BS Thread

Started some stuff last night after work.




Hopefully all this stuff (and more coming today) will magically appear on my truck by the end of the weekend.



Last look at the "old" set up.

 

Those who relocated their battery.

what are y’all using up front for the OEM terminal block?

 

Right on! Right on schedule... more parts arriving today, right on time to start install tomorrow.




Bypass hoops.

 

I wish I would have gotten those instead of the ones I did. Much better design.

 

Post 836 and 838 in my build thread shows what I used. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-cab-slow-build.264263/page-42#post-23205960

 

Did you do the Total Chaos hoops? I was tossing it up between the JD and the TC hoops for about a week. But I've heard nothing but good things about JD Fab... and they were a little cheaper. So I went that direction. Glad to hear (it seems) I went the right way anyway.

 

Neither. Mine are dirt king.

There are two things I like better about JD’s.

The gusset from the tube to the frame (which I might steal and add to mine) and the plate that goes between the hoop and frame mount. I actually suggested this to DK back in the day but I guess they didn’t feel like it was needed. That piece alone I think adds a ton a strength to that mounting point.

 

Right on. That's good to hear. Honestly, the biggest reason I decided to the hoop is thinking it will add strength to the coil bucket, not necessarily to add a bypass.

Also, I wanted to weld in everything I could all in one shot so I didn't have to keep going back in and dicking with shit over and over again.

I'll be running with no second shock at first, and for the foreseeable... this LT shit is expensive lol (Plus I'm building a custom 9.5 rear, that isn't cheap either)... (and I'm adding a doubler to the tcase)(my wife is going to murder me if she actually finds out how much I've spent in the last 2 months)

 

I didn’t look but you probably got the upper arm gussets as well right? Good call on welding everything in at once. I don’t do it that way and have pulled apart my front end so many times to tweak/add stuff.

I hear you on spending. I’d probably get murdered and then my murdered body murdered again if we looked at my spending spree.

 

Yes... I've already got the plates on the top of the coil buckets on there. Did those about a year ago. I'm hoping to make up templates for reinforcement plates on the sides of the coil buckets tonight.

Then tomorrow the plan is to do the UCA double shear brackets, side reinforcement plates, bypass hoop, air bump cans, and limit strap tabs tomorrow (hopefully knocking out all the welding tomorrow) so I can paint it and be ready for actual install on Sunday.

 

The video is out!!!!

comments, likes, and dare I say, subscriptions go a LONG way for us. If you're feeling generous, or got tingly watching the trekker, we'd appreciate it

I wish we'd had more time to actually shoot, but for just going out for a blast, it was a lot of fun and the video turned out pretty decent!



Edit: sorry, I actually thought this was the JD thread, but it sorta belongs here too... I will be copy/pasting there though, so I apologize if you see this post twice.

 

One downvote because every time I see 81trekker’s truck I hate mine a little more.


(by downvote I mean I liked and subscribed)

 

I honestly feel the same way... That trip cost me a lot more than just the gas money to drive down there...

And thank you so much

 

Ok... I'm a little stumped. The top of these bypass hoops look nothing like the picture. Am I missing something here?





The triangles at the top of the ones I recieved have 3 holes like it bolts or lines up to something. (Or like they can be plug welded to the side of a taller coil bucket.)

Of course it's Friday and 5:00

 

@81Trekker
Not sure if you tagged or contacted him yet

 

Thank you!

 

I’m using on of these for the positive side:

$36 Jamgoer 300A Bus Bar Heavy Duty Module Design Power Distribution Block 12V 24V 48V DC Busbar Box with 4X M8(5/16") Terminal Studs for Battery Marine Automotive RV Car Truck (Red)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092Q3JBKD

Negative side:

$15 DaierTek Negative Bus Bar 12V Marine 4 x 5/16" (M8) Terminal Studs 6 x M4 (#8) Terminal Screws Gound Bus Bar Black Negative Power Distribution Block for Automotive Boat Solar System

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B17X95J2

Then for powering a couple things something like this:

$18 WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover, 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBV2MHN

 

Bummed we missed you guys when you were out there. Would have been a cool meet up. But gotta work to pay the bills and buy truck parts

 

When setting up a SUA, do you guys bolt everything up without welding the new spring perch to get your axle where it needs to be? This seems like the way to do it?

 

Read the instructions on on the TC website. I didn't when setting up my buddies truck and it was a painful two days.
Their instructions are basically remove driveline with tires on the ground, old springs on, measure pinion angle. Remove old springs, install new springs with new perches, do not weld, bolt all up loosely, put tires on ground and measure pinion angle and set to old number. Then tack weld perches. Remove all and weld perches. Before welding perches you could take a spring apart to get the main and cycle for up and down travel/stops.