Needle Bearing vs. ECGS

I’m trying to better understand the replacement of the needle bearing with the ECGS part. The needle bearing is well, a bearing and performs the action of a bearing. The ECGS is not a traditional bearing from what I can tell and creates a really tight fitment (tight space) So how it it safe to replace the needle bearing with another part that is not a bearing? (Again I don’t understand concept etc)

 

The ECGS part is a bushing. A bushing is a type of bearing. Simply Google “bushing vs. bearing” and it will tell you the same.

Why do you think it’s not safe if it is marketed openly as an upgrade/replacement and so many people have made the change without issue?

 

Thx for the response. As I noted in my post, trying to understand the part. I’m not an engineer and am having difficulty in understanding the application of the bushing over a bearing. When I think of the axel spinning with bearing support I get it, but when I see a non bearing used I’m scratching my head and thinking about all that friction.

 

Bushings in this case are bearings, its extremely common to use "sleeve bearings" in everything from your connecting rod bearings to heavy equipment.

Bearings dont need to use balls or rollers or anything.

 

It’s a design issue, needle bearings are straight rollers and with lifts the force is way too uneven and strains the bearings.

The bushing isn’t as efficient but it solves the uneven force issues by taking up the clearance.

There’s not a lot of force on it, it just suspends the axle. The differential itself does the heavy lifting and load bearing.

I’ve never seen one cause issues. There’s times when I wish Toyota would endorse it.

 

Google something like “How do oil/lubricants work”. Essentially, with the bushing, while in motion, the axle “floats” on a layer of oil. Also read about the engine main bearings, that connect the crank shaft to the pistons, they are just “pads”. No rollers or balls.

 

Ah ha! Ok, now I think I get it. Yes, I understand the concept of lubrication as such in an engine and the layer it creates. My head scratcher was understanding the needle roller bearing over a bushing sleeve (no rollers). Thx!

 

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/toyota-clamshell-bushing-faq3.pdf

 

Again, a bushing is a bearing. But a bearing is not always a bushing. Google some videos about the differences. There are plenty and the visual references always help me understand better what is happening and how things work, more so than reading.

 

I have 40k miles on mine. Still going strong.

 

I have nothing to add other than I used 85w-140 as suggested by ECGS.
While my truck is a 2nd Gen, I did suffer from the front breather puking oil.
Still haven’t figured out why it happens. Some say it’s due to being over filled, but I never had this problem until went with 85w-140. The problem here is, if the fluid makes it to the breather, and cause the breather to stick closed. You’ll blow a front axle seal.

Had I to do it over, I would have probably went

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90, or 80w-90.

@Bishop84 what gear oil do you guys run up there in the far north?

 

I run 85w-140 as well. I did have a little leak at the axle seal but found that my breather was stuck shut from salt corrosion. Installed a new breather and it hasn't happened since.

 

I had that happen on the rear axle.
It gets checked regularly now.

 

Don't run 140 grade in the front, because the front diff doesn't transmit power in 2WD, the oil doesn't heat up to operating temperature. I just use a major-brand 75W90 there.

 

Yea but the gears are still moving and generating heat. Next time you go for a drive get out and feel the front diff after. It's hot to the touch. Friction is friction. When the front wheels are rotating as you drive all the front diff parts are still rotating and causing heat and friction. The whole drivlines continues to spin all the way to the transferase. Plus, you go much faster in 2wd than you would in 4wd. If you were to measure front diff temps in 2wd vs 4wd they will be close to the same temp. I would almost argue that the front diff gets hotter after a long drive at 80mph in 2wd vs 4wd at 30mph.

ECGS recommend the 140 in the front and I trust what they say. 40k miles later truck is still smooth and I've no issues.

 

^Wrong on several counts.

- Friction is a function of both torque and rotational speed. Remember most of the losses from flywheel hp to rwhp occur from the friction from the hypoid ring & pinion gear set, typically 11-15%. 15% of 278 hp is 31,000W (106,000 BTU/hr) of heat. In 4WD half of that is dumped into the front diff and dissipated in the oil. That's orders of magnitude more than friction from idly spinning gears in 2WD.
- Not sure about your region, but I routinely hit 60 mph on dirt roads and in snow in 4hi.
- In 2WD the front driveshaft, front ring & pinion don't spin, or at least not at full wheel speed. The spider gears spin in the diff carrier. That's the whole point of an ADD system.

 

75W90 or 80W90 is what toyota calls for pretty much all their trucks.

I'm not going to switch up to HD oil because of a small bushing that supports a half shaft.

I'd never run a thicker oil in the front unless I had a gear set installed. Bushing? hell no.

The rear is the only one I'd consider a 140 oil but it would have to be a hot climate, or towing frequently.

 

The front diff will still get up to the same temps. Test it with temp gun. It will be a similar number.

 

So you think ECGS doesn't know what they are talking about?

Can you explain why you think the heavier weight is bad?

 

Toyota knows more than ECGS. They engineered the bearing, gears, case and axles, so one small component doesn't warrant a huge fluid viscosity change.

Heavier weight is bad because the case isn't designed for it, so you're more likely to blow seals, also the lower the W rating the better lubricated it is during cold snaps.

Same as oil, you want lower pressure/resistance as fast as it can. I use 4WD tons in the winter and I need it to operate properly with as little drag as possible.