Project: DBL BLK ◇ by ToyRyd

I've been reading and wanting a plasma cutter to add to the tool list. I knew Hypertherm was way out of the budget. Harbor freight ones seemed a bit inflated, so next best, hit Amazon to see what they had. Spent some time reading YouTube reviews and finally landed on this thing.

BESTARC 50 Amp PilotArc

$250 bestarc Plasma Cutter,Pilot Arc BTC500DP 2nd Generation 50Amps Dual Voltage 110/220V Plasma Cutting Machine (BTC500DP 110/220)

Pilot Arc Plasma Cutter, Non-touch, BTC500DP CUT50DP 50Amps Plasma Cutter 110/220V Dual Voltage Plasma Cutting Machine Clean Cut(BTC500DP 110/220)




With a few practise cuts and adjustments cutting 1/4" mild steel plate was no issue and looking better with little slag on the final piece. Bit more practice an I can see myself using this more and more.



Picked up some consumables for dirt cheap as I learn the do's and dont's on using this.

Also picked up some semi cheap goggles mostly for the plasma cutter, but also helpful when welding in areas where my normal lid just doesnt fit. It has a few adjustments and came with a face shield and spare lenses.





Don't worry about the guy behind the mask, not much of a selfie taker





And size reference compared to my Hobart 210

 

Dang I like those goggles!

 

Necro bump, how did you like bastarding up the 63 pack? Did it flex alright with the overload on there?

 

Been super happy with the bastard setup. Rig is a bit heavy fully loaded around 5800lbs. But flex is great, glad I kept the overload as it's suppose to help with axle wrap and I don't really have any. I did trim the overload but that's it (kept most of the forward half and removed majority of the rear). Recommend it

Not the best angle, but this is almost stuffed at the rear, complimenting the front which is maxed out on bumps.

 

Slowly working on the bump stops now that summer is almost here. Started a new thread to keep it seperated in case anyone is following.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/toyryds-rebuild-and-limit-hydro-bumps.792570/#post-28658383

Started with this. Some Ruffstuff outriggers I trimmed, 2.25" holesaw for the bumpcan and some TG 4" 2.0 body hydrobumps destroked to 2.25"

 

Need to cycle both sides again to measure for the 100th time and semi weld the bumpstop mounts. After that, should have some info and oil volume and N2 pressures. Once that's done, final weld and enjoy.....hopefully

 

So hydro bumps should of been done by now, but got sidetracked by a few low voltage issues coming from my fuseblock. Switch panels are all the rage and make running cables into the cab a breeze. Picked up an Auxbeam switch panel and decided to rewire everything.

Another cleaner setup than before. To fit everything, had to relocate a few brackets and hoses from the evap system which worked out nicely.





Not too many pictures but picked up a mount from Etsy, painted to match interior, built a support panel behind the headliner, and mounted the Auxbeam switch panel in the headliner.





Hopefully long weekend I can get the hydro bumps in and test the location .

Also picked up a Driver side seat belt, nice to not have a belt stuck when shutting the door again.

 

Progress, just need to cycle and drive them to make sure and burn them in the rest of the way.




And found my outer rubber hydro assist hoses are starting to crack so looks like they need to be replaced. Not bad almost 8 years on the current ones. Should be easy with the rebuild able fittings ftw.

 

I am definitely a fan of that switch location. Reminds me of the old OTRATTW panel @sander1036 put in his truck in that spot back in the day. Love seeing this rig being almost ready to wheel again. You going to Takeover this year? I already can't got fam shit that weekend.

 

a PIA spot, but worth it in the end. Easy to see and reach without too much maneuvering. East Coast 4runner jambo was at Rausch this weekend, almost made a day trip, but worried about not having the bumps at all vs motivation to get them installed, especially on the front. Already planning for Takeover, always try to at least get one overnight trip with that. Trying to rally a few local guys to go as well.

Still havnt started my valve covers project yet, or boxing in the rear c channel. Decisions....

 

Hydro bumps:

1st test - 50cc of Amsoil #5 5wt Shock oil
- 120psi Nitrogen

Ride is nice, a bit firm on pot holes, will be testing and tuning this weekend at Rausch Creek to dial them in.

Also just in time, upgraded to a GMRS radio.
Midland MXT400. Pulled out the old police scanner and switch the radio around. Turned out decent and fit pretty well for an off road rig.

 

Bump cause this needs an update and it's how I keep everything noted when working on this thing.

Had been collecting a pile of parts to box in the rear frame, plus adding some more bracing to the open c channel and create more support for a future RS trackbar/driveshaft slider.

Then driving I notice a whine. Thought it was a PSC pump low on fluid, but that wasn't the case.
When listening closer, it was coming lower more towards the bell housing/trans.

Step1 pull the pan.



Step 2
Welp given that most of the a340 trans is aluminum, finding steel is easier to track down. So decided after 236k trouble free miles, it's time for a nice rebuild and upgrade.

Note* not as fun when you have the crawlbox and shifters to pull as well. When I had done the 4wd ifs swap it was just the trans and not too much work.







Decided to cleanup the outside while most of the parts are still sealed. Multiple brass wire brushes ftw.





Pulling the torque converter and the oil pump. (Mostly made up of steel components, hint hint)





I missed it the first time around, but you can see the small swirl marks on the backside of the oil pump from metal particles flowing with the ATF.

Then I looked again.
Looking closer the two support tabs that engage with the torque converter....well 1 now. And then spent some time with the torque converter, definitely a fin or two broken and the tolerance of play has to be at least 1/4" or more. Torque converter play must of added stress two that engagement tab on the oil pump.
















So glad I caught the whining when I did, could've seen that doing more damage to the pump gears, lose oil pressure, burning clutches, etc.

What is nice is that there is alot of support for the a340 from the Toyota Supra guys putting out high HP and TQ #s. Parts starting to arrive, will be upgrading a few things on the factory parts, clutch packs, and valve body so stay tuned.

 

Small update, still waiting on a few Toyota specific Trans tools to come in, and decided to go with IPT (Import Performance Transmission) and order their performance and rebuild kit.

Decided with the down time, not only to clean up the factory tcase but also replace with a few parts I've had.

First was the upgraded MC Front and Rear output flanges. All that was available years ago was the blanks as years before that there was only small batches of the 4 pattern sold.

Old link to a forum post for the flanges as apparently MC no longer sells them.
https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=77467.0

Definitely a difference between the two.





Then next up was ever since my IFS 4wd conversion days the tcase I had used was from an older 1997 cable driven speedo. MC sells an adapter that converts cable to electrical signal that I had been using and still is working great. However it has always stuck out a bit and wanted to simplify it by using just a digital speedo sensor which my factory wiring is for. An OEM for the newer 1st generation models.

For more info about this a good thread by @Area51Runner
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-swap-how-to-transfer-case-vss-speed-sensor-options.786403/

I did some research and turns out the digital speedo was not made under the typical denso company like most of our parts. It was made by ISUMO, and that part is used in a TON of vehicles.
Was able to get the main sensor body brand new for $14 and then ordered from Toyota a new plastic speedo gear and bolt. Works great and a total cost of $42 for everything.

Parts:
VSS body - $13.99 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1713704799...Ptn3kztQYK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

30 tooth speedo gear - Toyota part # 33403-39365
GEAR SUB-ASSEMBLY
SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN (ATM); SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN (MTM).

New longer bolt to hold the sensor body to tcase
91611- 60828
BOLT(FOR CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER SETTING)

 

Small update, 90% of the trans upgrade parts are finally here. Just waiting on the IPT performance rebuild kit to ship.

Trans parts:

ATFspeed Transmission pan support
ATFspeed Billet piston accumulators
ATFspeed Billet forward piston
Transgo HD2 Shiftkit/reprogram
ATP trans filter
Rostra shift solenoids
Rostra lock up solenoid
Rostra EPC solenoid
Toyota valve body gaskets
Sonnax Zip kit /valve body rebuild
Recon Torque converter
Transtar oil pump

So while waiting I also want to upgrade the rear drive shaft. Still using the oem one with a spacer to compensate with the 63s travel.
Found a company, mostly like a wholesale seller for the actual company. That are making some Toyota drivetrain products.

Picked up a new Toyota 60mm x 60mm double cardan CV head, and a matching Toyota 60mm x 60mm yoke that was a nice snug fit with an oem u joint.



And found and old MC forum thread about a dom tubing sizing for driveshafts that is .156 wall and almost a perfect I.D. size for the O.D. of the C.V/Double cardan head.

Tubing specs:
2.750 O.D.
.156 wall
2.438 I.D.
ASTM A513 Type 5

Toyota CV head and Slip yoke O.D. - 2.443

And picked up a Toy 8" slip driveshaft kit (oem style)

 

2.75x.156 wall is awesome and HD. I bashed mine on plenty of rocks without issue. Most guys will go with .80 which I think is ok but won't last. At a minimum, I would recommend .120 if you planned to slide the shaft over rock.

.80 is ok
.120 is better for sure
.156 is pure beef

 

Transmission update, started the rebuild and upgrade.

Started first with the Valvebody. Used a combination of Sonnax a340 zip kit, and TransGo a340 HD2 shift kit. Used the Sonnax kit mainly for valve body end plugs (aka sealing hydraulic circuits) and replaced all the check balls to ensure all areas were sealed. Factory check balls are known to wear overtime.
Then utilized the Transgo kit to drill out the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shifts to the "truck" setting. Then finally combined Sonnax's TV boost valve (much better finish quality), with TransGo's upgraded spring and washer. Will be skipping the TransGo accumulator shift springs for some ATFSpeed accumulators designed to use the factory spring with shortened throw. Cleaned the valvebody out, replaced new vb separator plate gaskets, and then torqued everything back to spec.

Photo dump




Sealed the valvebody back up and set it to the side to start working on the transmission case internals.
Got it all torn apart started to clean the case and then start cleaning the internals and start replacing the frictions,steels, and o rings from the IPT kit.

 

Auto's might as well be magic to me.

 

It's pretty impressive of the machining and the fluid ports an how it all works. Can only imagine have to tear apart one of the newer 10spd on some of these vehicles out there. I saw a video on IPT's site for the newer Tundra Trans, literally valve body is in like 3 different sections.

 

New rear driveshaft came in.

From Left to Right

High Angle Front shaft .120 wall, OEM factory rear with 1.5" spacer, New .156 wall Rear shaft with 8" slip, Square tube trail spare.