Panhard/Draglink Relation

No plans to at the moment lol. I just figured I'd overbuild it now and not worry about it later.

 

I also have plans to double sheer the OEM Toyota pitman arm. I'm still working on this one but it'll look something like this:

 

Mine's done with Cardboard Assisted Designed

 

Hey all my ComputerAD starts with CardboardAD!
How has that been holding up? My buddies coworkers at Solo Motorsports all say I'm wasting my time doing it this way.

 

What's a waste of time? CAD or a double shear?

 

Yes but I think they mostly meant the double sheer idea in general.

 

Would you mount your CO on a single tab? Same concept.

 

My buddy got lazy and did his pitman arm without a double shear. After 2 year, there's significant play in his steering while driving. Took the 3/4" bolt off and noticed his pitman arm hole is enlarged.

 

Exactly! I guess they do make double sheer pitman arms but they cut the factory pitman arm off, only keeping the splined ring, then build off of that. IMO seems less strong than plating the factory one but who knows...

 

I went with a chromoly pitman and still add the double shear

 

I'd love a chromoly pitman arm but I need the long droop from the factory one

 

not necessarily a requirement if you are running a TRE in a tapered hole at the pitman, but definitely will cause problems to not run double shear with a straight bolt and heim

 

I mean it probably is, especially with hydro assist, but you do you.

 

Correct. We're referring to heim joints with straight through bolt. I haven't seen anyone with a taper tre being double shear.

 

Yeah I'll be running a straight 3/4" bolt with heims.

 

Good point, can’t double shear a TRE.

What I should have said is a straight drilled hole with a bolt will start with a small amount of slop and that movement allows the hole to wallow out over time. A tapered hole with a tapered TRE end press fits as you tighten it which takes the slop out. Same concept with cone washers on Toyota knuckles and hubs, and tapered lug nuts.

 

I'm not in CA so we actually have to deal with moisture and mud from time to time so TRE's are the only way to go. Even my links are on Metalcloak Duroflex bushings instead of heims since they make noise ALL the time pretty quickly. I'd pull my fingernails out one by one before having steering on heims

 

Curious how you welded to chromoly? I've only got a mig welder so I'm not sure if it's possible for me.

 

You can mig it with ER80S-D2 wire. Pre heat to 400-500*F and then wrap it in a blanket or put it back in the oven to slow cool

 

No big deal to MIG weld chromo.