Aluminum Camper Shell

My plan A was a Tradesman but as they closed up shop I am now going with plan B which is a ARE DCU.

Trying to decide if I want a 26-34 wedge with the ARE rack or a 29” ARE DCU Max with the thicker skin and Yakima tracks.

I plan on mounting some brand of 270 Awning on the passenger side and a water shower on the other side of the rack.

For those of you that have one do you like the ARE installed rack or would you have preferred something like Yakima tracks?

If you have the wedge, would you do it again? Other than possibly less MPG loss and it looks cool is there any advantage of a wedge over a none wedge.

 

I cannot speak for a factory rack, as mine did not come with one. I installed some track on mine to allow custom tie down and rack needs.

The wedge has worked out great for looks and having an angled surface for my solar panel.

As far as mileage, it has never been a concern. Having a Prinsu roof rack I could have gone with a non wedge style and gained a little more headroom up front.

I mounted an OVS Nomadic 270, but just for an added bit of security I am going to fabricate a front mount.

 

Thank you for the answer; your build and @bodean are the two I was looking at. Decided I am gong to order a paint matched 26" - 32" wedges with some extra plating for roof tracks on the back flat part of the wedge.

 

The factory rack is ok but I'd rather have had a more traditional type of rack. It's just a little more challenging to mount stuff too.
The non wedge kinda acts like a sail especially if it's up high but the room is nice.

 

Just wanting to get a Decked and an awning.

 

Siiick shell from a fellow Fullertonian

 

Here’s mine

 

I need to add lights. I love how your interior looks

 

Amazon, I don't have the link but it was "12v 120 LEDs Van Interior Lights..."

 

Love this thread and really leaning towards a 23-29" DCU wedge at this point. I've got some questions for the folks that have a side tool box. Namely about how deep does it protrude into the bed, and are you still able to sleep two in the bed somewhat comfortably? Also are they generally welded/riveted in, or bolted and easily removable? I really want to have some extra storage that is easily reachable without having to get into any platform drawers, but could live without it if it means you can't really sleep 2 people in the back anymore..

 

I purchased a Swisscaps aluminum shell used. I assume they are very similar construction to the ARE’s but they very well may differ. The tool box was riveted into the roof and then screwed down the sides with sheet metal screws. It was easy to remove the screws and it was easy to drill out the rivits along the top but here’s the kicker.. the bottom panel of the box was riveted to the frame and was sandwiched between the frame and the base panel (the sheet of aluminum that contacts the bed rails). I couldn’t remove these rivits without the whole shell coming apart basically. I solved this problem by cutting the bottom panel flush against the frame using an angle grinder. Turned out great but you have to be careful with the angle grinder since it cuts through aluminum like butter and could easily bite into the frame. I was happy to have it gone since the tool box blocks off access to rest of the bed from that side. I don’t sleep in the bed and I like to access the bed from both side panels. I still have the box laying around and could give you the depth another time soon.

Also it may have been a good idea to cut the box out with just a hacksaw to avoid potential damage.

 

Box depth on my Swisscaps is 10” from the inside of the frame.

And just to add my 2 cents on the box: it’s nice storage. I liked it but the fact that it blocked access to the rest of the bed made it a deal breaker for me. I can’t reach all the way across the bed from one side.

Also I think the 23-29” Wedge is a winner for sure. My shell is 23” flat roof and it is just too short to sit up in on a bed frame set at the height of the wheel wells.

 

Has anyone seen or found a way to change out the folding T-handle for the side doors ? I'd like to have a locking mechanism that I can open from the inside,and have a lift handel similar to a car door on the outside. I think super pacific campers have that type of handel. It would be nice to close up the camper and not be locked inside.
T-handel.


Super pacific handel

 

What he said

 

Yup

 

Well this is what I've found so far.
It's called a rotary paddle handle.
I've seen some slam shut ones but I think the lock/mechanism is orientated wrong.
I found this one but couldn't find any more info.

 

Or this style I meet to go mesure.
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/4139N88

 

That latch from McMaster would be cool if you can get it to work. I'll be building a DCU also, so I'm interested in how this works out.
As far as the regular T handle latches they come with... I saw somewhere a guy cut the T down so it could still be rotated without hitting the cup and stopping the unlock rotation. I guess he just pushed the locking bars from the inside to unlock it.

 

Work in progress...

 

Got mine at last only had to wait 3 Months for it.