Good Caliper Spreaders for 2Gen Taco?

Working on front hubs/bearings and brake job.

Hard part was pretty easy... got the new hub/bearing assembly installed on the first wheel.

But the second rusty cotter pin on the brake pads is kicking my butt. Hard to get some leverage because of the fragile brake line.

One of the brake pads has slipped at an angle and I think it is binding the rusty cotter pin. My caliper spreader is a screw type - it turned out not to fit well and has a small plastic handle. I need a good one to compress the cylinders evenly and flatten out the pads. (Now that I think of it, I should have tried my large adjustable pliers.)

1. Got any recommendations on a solid manual caliper spreader with good manual leverage that works well on Taco calipers?
2. Any suggestions for how to extrude a troublesome cotter pin? - maybe a tool that clamps on and screws / presses the pin out from the back side?

Thanks much for any tips.

This community has been so helpful to me. You guys are awesome.

 

To compress calipers, I’ve always used a vice grip clamp, 2 if it’s being stubborn. Put 1 on tight, put the second one on tight, the first one will now be loose. Make the first one tighter, clamp it on, the second one will now be loose, repeat.

For cotter pins, usually vice grip pliers, grab the round end, hammer outward. If the ends break off, a tiny round pin punch will knock it out.

 

I use this:

LAJIAOZ Stainless Steel Car Brake Caliper Press Tool,Compressor Brake Wrench Can 360 Degree Ratchet Swing for Car Brake Repair and Replace https://a.co/d/1ghbX6H

 

I'm a professional and I don't own one lol.

I press them back while still installed, so channel locks or pry bars against the pads and spread.

If the bleeder is opened you can almost do it by hand.

Also, always unbolt the 12mm to the brake line that connects it to the knuckle to prevent line bending.

 

$20 Spurtar Brake Caliper Press Tool, Brake Caliper Tool Spreader, 4 in 1 Universal Disc Brake Caliper Compression Tool Ratchet Piston Spreader Automotive Tools for Car Brake Repair Installation Blue

https://www.amazon.com/Caliper-Univ...t=&hvlocphy=9002128&hvtargid=pla-946197783315

 

Yeah, using vice grips I was able to get the pin half way out with lots of struggle. It's really hard to get manual leverage because of the brake line. I don't have a punch that's fine enough and with the caliper mounted on the rotor (as a vice holding it) there's very little room behind to hammer at a punch.

Maybe I'll try looking for a small metal saw or something and try chopping it in half at the hole.

Hmm, or maybe a pull hammer of some sort.

 

Didn't think about the bleeder. Will look at that.

Yes, I detached the brake line bracket ... that gives me some play. And I have a S-sharped hangar for the caliper so it doesn't dangle.

 

This ratchet tool looks easy mode. Thanks.

 

I’ve personally never tried it but I heard if you slightly hold the brake pedal down it prevents the reservoir from draining.

This cotter pin you speak of my brain can’t picture for a few reasons.
1, the brain is getting old.
2, I’ve looked at hundreds.
3, 5 lug me, 6 lug almost everyone else.
Please provide pics.

 

I did the brakes on my 4Runner a few months ago. Replaced the pads and rotors. I used a large screwdriver as a pry bar to open up the caliper to fit the new pads in.

Removing the old caliper pins was a massive PITA. I was able to hammer them all out with another sturdy screwdriver, but I had to chop one to pieces to remove it.

 

file down the tip of a proper grade 8 framing nail, stick it in the hole and whack it​

 

Here's the part number for the caliper pins if you need new ones. They're about $8 each.

 

and put some good copper anti-seize on ‘em when you put ‘em in…

 

I did that and will re-apply when I rotate the tires.

 

I get that they get wet, hot, etc., but they really are made from some shit metal…

shameful.

 

Yeah the metal seemed soft. Out of the 4 pins, 2 came out without too much effort. Those 2 happened to be the pins higher from the ground. The 3rd needed more effort, but came out, though slightly bent. The 4th almost seems to have swelled. Trying to hammer it out cause it to deform more. Cutting through it didn't take much effort with a saw blade by hand.

 

I don’t like it, but I disassemble, clean and lube all my front brake parts every time I rotate tires now…

 

i never seize those pins going in never had a problem removing even in the rustbelt.

I also clamp a smooth jaw vise grip on the rubber line to keep the line from draining .

loosen the bleeder screw compress the piston with my fingers.

 

Is there a risk of an air bubble getting into the line if I do this? If so, do I get it out by pumping the brakes a couple times with the bleed loose and then tighten the bleed valve?