Modified Tundra Rack Swap Preorder

Figured I'd upload some pictures of my process, rack is in, waiting on the front diff to get the locker install then the truck is going back together, I had to shim the motor about 1/2" using poly motor mounts and grind down the factory bungs in the frame, I have lots of clearance in between the rack and engine, probably 3/8"-1/2" and I'm okay with that, my best advice is to use the old rack to line up the aluminum cams on the new rack other than that it wasn't too bad

 

Are those the PRG motor mounts? I didn’t know you could get those with black bushings, I didn’t want the red poly

 

They are martec engineering motor mounts

 

Thanks. They look exactly like these:
https://www.prgproducts.com/product-page/toyota-4-0l-motor-mounts

 

For anyone running a JD fab kit on 3rd gens, you will need to get longer rod ends on your shocks and push the rack forward as far as possible. I was running warfab tie rods and they were rubbing once I had this rack on. But after the longer rod end, there’s plenty of clearance. I barely cleared here but I’m also running JD’s billet heim rods.



This is with the JD fab billet heim rods. Hard to see but it’s about 1/16” there at full lock turned all the way to the left. But no rub… phew finally behind me

 

Can anyone confirm this?
I've been searching for a while and can't find the thread pitch for the Tacoma ITRE. I know it's an M14 and from looking at pictures it appears to be an M14 2.0 coarse thread?
Thank you in advance.

 

Attempting to get my basikbiker rack in right now, having some trouble aligning the offset bushings.

with the rack almost in place, it seems like the best position for the bushings is a 45° angle with the bolt inwards and closer to the tundra rack itself (if that makes sense)
Is this generally correct ?


Also another problem which may correct itself once the bushings are in the right orientation, the top side of the tunnel rack was hitting my engine when the rack seemed to be in place.

To others who installed, how close is the tundra rack to the 4.0v6 ?
I’m afraid my engine in Rockwall interfere, even when I am able to get it bolt it up.
Here is the area it wants to hit


This makes me concerned my engine mounts are toast as well.

 

Here is where it is contacting


And where the bushings are orientated:

 

Maybe rotate the eccentric bushings back to move the rack further forward. The 11-year old rubber in your motor mounts is probably rotten as well so probably a good time to put in fresh ones.

 

yea. Seen most guys have to either replace the engine mounts and also possibly have to space up the engine with a fat washer for clearance.

 

Good to know. They are about as adjusted as far as I can to push the rack forward,.

I’ll look into some new ones from Solid or Martec.

 

I struggled for a bit getting the bushings to line up correctly. If you still have the rack out, set it on top of the stock rack or the other way around. Using dowels line up the holes as best has possible from the stock rack to the Tundra rack.

I don't have any clearance issues with the lower engine. I did grind down the bungs in the cradle and also added a washer in the motor mount top screw for a little added height.

good luck, it's doable just rough.

 

My rack made contact on my 2005s engine in the same place, due to worn out bushings in the engine mount. I got new poly bushing mounts and also spaced them up with some 1/4” steel plates.

 

the rack is in, about a paper width of clearance.

I’m definitely going to get some new motor mounts - & good idea with grinding down the frame bungs ! Wish I’d thought of that when I had the rack out still. I don’t want to take it out again

 

Definitely replace the motor mounts. That's how I cracked my upper oil pan and turned into quite the pricey project. Instead of the rack, it was my front diff smacking the pan since the mounts were toast. I replaced with Solid Offroad mounts.

 

Any preference as to?

• Solid Off-road (I’ve heard varying fitment I
Issues)
• DMZ (pricey but I’d trust their fitment and build a over all other options + has trans mount as well)
• Martec (easiest on the wallet and looks to be easier to install as well)
•PRG products (kinda the same as Martec but has a slightly larger bolt and a few bucks more $)

 

My Prgs have been fine with dual cases/abuse, very very easy to shim the motor up. I shimmed mine up around 1".
Martec is a rad dude and the welds are way nicer, Prgs had "tack dimes" that I ground down and rewelded lol

 

good to know, between those two options Martec seems the way to go. Cheaper and looked a little nicer.

what did you use to space? Big thick washers?

edit: just saw your pictures at the top of this page. Did you make those yourself?
I don’t have that capability, I’d be going to Lowe’s or Home Depot and getting the closest fit I can lol

 

I had to make some aluminum 6061 pucks, one is 1/4 and the other is 3/8 ended up having to use both and just got a longer through bolt and stover nut on top

 

Where did you get these huge washers? Looking for some like these for my install