Melted ABS Diode

So this has been a fun experience...

My truck is a 2003 SR5. I found a 2002 TRD E-Locker rear end and also found the factory 4WD ECU, Diff Lock Switch, and all of the harnesses to do a direct swap.

This was supposed to be a plug and play thing... During my "bench test" of the locker I noticed that the locker engaged and the diff light activated on the dash, but the ABS light did not turn on (which is not supposed to happen). I could also tell that the diff light was very dim. About 15 seconds later I noticed some smoke coming from behind the dash. This is where the fun began and here is what I found:







Long story short... I'm assuming that when my truck was assembled, one of the wires at the base of this diode had accidentally been dragged into the opposite side of the sleeve that is meant to keep the wires separated. It actually stripped the wire a little bit, and for 20 years this circuit was never "hot" until I activated my new differential lock. When I activated the diff lock, the two wires were making enough contact and began to arc and melt the diode housing. I was able to get the wires cleaned up and stop them from arcing, but it was already too late for the diode. The heat made it so brittle that it actually cracked and fell apart. Before it fell apart, I did confirm that once the wires were separated the diff lock engaged and both lights came on at full brightness.

I've searched high and low but I cannot find the part I need. Here is a diagram of where the short occurred:



I found a Toyota part number and ordered it from the dealer, but it only came with the plastic sleeve, and not the diode itself. So, does anyone know where or how I can find a replacement ABS diode?

 

ABS DELETE

 

I’d be real tempted to slap a

$2 1N4001 Standard Recovery Rectifier Diode, General Purpose, Single, 1.0 A, 50V (Pack of 20)

1N4001 in there and see what happens. I looked at the drawings and they really don’t give much helpful info. Would be nice to know how much current it needs to handle.

 

Could I measure current across it with a multimeter? It still "works" but I don't really trust it in the long run.