Turbo BS Thread

Not sure if this was posted but guys over at R4t are developing a turbo for the 3rd gen

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cp-cn-Xjzex/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

I tried something similar from ebay and didn't have enough room to get it to fit.

I tapped into the heater hose. I initially used plastic but they melted and almost left me stranded in the Montana backcountry. Fortunately a buddy had an air fitting T I was able to use for a fix. Here's what I have now.

Four Seasons 84544 Tee Heater Fitting

$18 Four Seasons 84544 Tee Heater Fitting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSYSZ8

My blend valve lasted longer but also deformed from the heat. Installed a metal one.

One thing with T'ing off there is when the blend valve is open I doubt much coolant is being pushed into the turbo lines.

Easy diagnosis if it's running or not lol.

 

Looks like a G30. Going to be a torque monster. That will be fun. Glad to see someone new taking a crack at the turbo life

 

Good feedback thank you. I hadn't thought about flow reduction while heater is running I'd like to think it's not enough flow reduction to make much of a difference. Don't some of the 4runners have extra coolant lines for back seat heaters?

I will switch to a metal Tee but the ones posted above aren't the correct size for me

Side note I thought I'd check this out as an alternative to Teeing into the oil pressure sensor for the oil feed. Just slap this bad boy into the plug below the oil pressure sensor.
Podavelle 4AN Male Flare to 1/4 NPT Pipe Male Fitting Adapter Union Coupler Straight Aluminum Black

$10 Podavelle 4AN Male Flare to 1/4 NPT Pipe Male Fitting Adapter Union Coupler Straight Aluminum Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KY7JR94

 

Thought about this as well, but the T may be nice if you wanted to run a pressure gauge as well. You planning to run an oil cooler pre turbo?

 

I don't have one planned right now. It should be easy enough to add later if necessary.

I'm hoping between the oil and water cooling it should be cool enough for my low boost goals

 

Yeah you'll be plenty good, the 5VZs little water/oil heat exchanger actually does a pretty good job.

 

Music to my ears

Side note

I checked the fitment on these clamps for the 25MM BOV and they are too small so I ordered the next size up hopefully they fit. These clamps are 3/4" wide and seemed sturdy

Next size up is 29-31mm. We'll see how it fits in a few days

CHUNYUNGDA TT Heavy Duty Hose Clamps-Clamping Hose OD 29-31 mm, Stainless Steel Solid T-nuts, Band and Screw for 1-1/8 Fuel Line(1.14 -1.22 inch,4 pack)

$17 CHUNYUNGDA TT Heavy Duty Hose Clamps-Clamping Hose OD 29-31 mm, Stainless Steel Solid T-nuts, Band and Screw for 1-1/8 Fuel Line(1.14 -1.22",4 pack)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P54F6RQ

 

A/C lines removed. Hopefully a re-route in the future.

 

The port below the oil sensor is larger than 1/8 bspt. I say it is 1/4 from memory.

 

Good thing I wasn't depending on it,
They may have had a 1/4 option.

ill still need it to connect the oil feed line too the Tee now that I think about it so it's not a waste after all just.

 

I went with the good ole vs racing wastegate. Tial knock off. Unless you have a $10k motor I don't see the point of spending $600 on a housing with a gasket and a spring. Injectors and fuel, different story.

 

Damn, that was a long read. Finally made it through the many pages/posts of this thread with very little skimming (ok maybe more than a little, but not much).


Sorry for the brain dump below in advance...

I think I have concluded, that for the 5vz the gt3076 spec'd turbo would be the most ideal, for my power goals (325-350 crank HP tops) but now what I am trying to figure out is essentially what turbine a/r to go with (.63/.82/1.01).

How I am understanding it is, the lower the a/r the quicker to spool at lower RPM? So for example sake:

.63 = 2300rpm
.82 = 2750rpm
1.01 = 3000+rpm

The above numbers are just pulled out of my ass and me speculating based on everything I have read thus far, hoping someone can gauge me on that or am I completely off base?

If the above is more or less correct, than I would be leaning more toward the .82 a/r to try keep out of cruising or closed loop boost as much as possible (my normal driving and shift patterns are at or below 2500rpm). Reasoning behind that is that initially I wont have any tuning/piggyback so won't to avoid any boosted/lean situations as much as I can. I did have expectations to graduate to a piggyback ecu, but am noticing the options are now very limited due to discontinuations and alternatives still out there are rather pricey. Other short/medium term solutions I have been thought about and looking into further are a Split Second Enrichner to possibly help those close loop boost situations and/or Meth set up to supplement AFR into more richer territory if needed while open loop boosted at higher psi, but am aware those are band-aid solutioning a situation where ultimately the way really solve would be to go piggyback or stand alone.


Below is the 3076 compressor map and plotted points where at my power goals would roughly be, based on walking through the garret site reference material here. If I did it right, that would be somewhere around running ~13 PSI to reach that goal which would be a long way down the road if ever realistically. But even at lower PSI to start the truck would be running through the efficiency islands of that map pretty nicely yes? With no real concern of surge or choke




again sorry for the wall of text, just needed to type it out and hear myself think essentially.

 

Yeah, pretty much.

Just got to say 35r with .82 is quite responsive. Can't imagine a 30r.

 

Maybe too much then? I know I seen in your thread but your on a 3576 or 3582?

 

Its a 3582r. If you have a deal on a 30r kit, don't hesitate. You will definitely need tuning for those power goals.

 

@GoJo

do you have the ability to log your current MAF readings? Convert that to lbs/min as on the map then that would be where you’re at with no boost. Adding boost will greatly increase the flow rate but you’ll know if it’s undersized if your N/A flow rate is the same as the turbo puts out under boost. Not much help really but others may can chime in for what they flow under boost to get a better idea.

 

No deal on one that I have found yet, just trying to do as much research as I can before I start pulling the trigger on purchases. Looking back you still running 8psi? when do you start spool and peak boost rpm on that 35r?

 

@Brake Weight I assume this may be possible through obd2 scanner and the torque pro app I have but I am not sure, I would have to dig into it. Makes sense though, thanks for the help

 

I’ve got a fleaBay chinese Bluetooth OBD dongle and the TorquePro app. Just look for MAF readings. It’s in grams/sec but can convert over.