Any redflags in my 2023 build?

Thank you this was very helpful information. Ive been very concerned about the down travel and I think your testimony convinced me I may need to look back into possibly going softer coils. Im very glad to hear about the bumpstops and I'm hoping your spot on about the offset saving me.

 

My bad typo

 

I would personally consider somthing with some adjustability for ride height rather than a coil that should achieve x height. It will allow you to dial it in exactly where you want it even after the coils settle. Fox 2.0's can be had for a good price another brand that doesn't come up much on here is elka. I have a year on my elka 2.0's and they have been fantastic. Will they be a little more spendy than the ome's yes but I think it will allow you to achieve the best results.

 

aftermarket high clearance bumpers will improve your approach and departure angles

 

I had the airbags installed the same time the bumpers went on. Air bags make the rear quite stiff at low speeds, it still soaks up washboard forestry roads very well though. Same suspension on my 2nd Gen (front/rear bumpers and winch without airbags and skids), rode very well in all conditions I drive in. I drive forestry roads, decommissioned forest roads and freshly built drill trails where I'm the first behind the excavator in the BC interior plus the highways to get there.

It i a work truck set up for where I drive for work.

 

Update to this build. Ive decided to return the OME shocks in exchange for Bilstein 5100s. After a lot of research into our suspensions I've come to realize that these shocks should only be run on a heavy build with about 1-1.5 inches of lift. This is because these shocks are stock length unlike the Bilstein's which have a purported .75in of unadvertised extended travel over the stock shock length. Like other extended travel shocks this has a huge effect on potential downtravel.

EX. Stock suspension has about 3.8in downtravel and 4in of uptravel. A 2.5in lift on OME shocks will remove 2.5in of downtravel and leave you with only 1.3in of downtravel. Swap to a 2.5in lift on the Bilstein shocks and the extended travel will provide about 1.3 inches of downtravel when calculating for motion ratio for about 2.6inches overall, effectively doubling the downtravel vs OME or other stock length shocks.

This is why you can find people running OME shocks and coils complaining about a harsh ride. They are repeatedly topping out the shocks due to their limited downtravel.

IF YOU ARE RUNNING OME SHOCKS ALREADY I highly suggest you consider adding .5in top coil spacers. Your shocks should have about .6inches of upward travel remaining by the time you hit the bumpstop so a spacer this small wont cause the shocks to bottom out before the bump stop does its thing and will provide about 1in of downtravel to your measly 1.3 inches and should completely alleviate the issue. This is of course assuming a 2.5in lift but even with smaller lifts it will provide the same downtravel and IMO is a no brainer.

 

No no no. Now you’re confusing yourself. Where you said “Like other extended travel shocks this has a huge effect on potential downtravel.” It’s quite the opposite of what you’re thinking. Go read on MT or LT shocks. ESP Fox or King or ADS. It all depends on travel length. From say 5” to 18” of down travel, or where you decide to strap them at.
Also your final statement of adding that .5 spacer to the OME springs isn’t what you’re thinking either. Their springs are sooo stiff is the issue for the rough ride because they’re made to hold x amount of weight. Spring rate…

Oh. And on the 5100’s you’re not going to get 2.5” of lift off them. .70 is the max on highest setting on stock springs.

Seriously. Go look at 2.5 King oe or 2.0 or 2.5 Fox mt shocks 0-3” of lift. The 2.0 and 2.5 number in front of the shock is not the lift amt it’s the shock body dia… either of these will give you about 4 to 5” of down travel.

Also. Depending on how you plan to wheel your truck off-road with weight of front bumper or overland rack or whatever you plan to do. Any king, Fox or whatever aftermarket coil over you go with you can ask the shock co or a good 4x4 shop to revalve them for your application or chg the spring rate of the springs.
Same for the leaf pack out back for lift and spring rate. Standard, progressive or heavy duty but I don’t recommend the latter. Hella stiff. Progressive you can still add a leaf from that co if you go with Deaver or Atlas spring co. You tell either one of those two they will build what you want out of them. Both in La down the street from eachother. I prefer Atlas but it’s up to you on what your needs are.

 

Im not quite understanding what you mean. Alot of the assumptions I made there are from the Tinkerers Adventure youtube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_68Hc8GtLko&t=661s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1tTelhdEiM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATmyTbMJL3o&t=323s

 

+1 on this. These trucks are totally fine off road with mostly stock components. The very first thing I would do is upgraded bump stops. Takes more time to get your tools together to do the swap than it does to actually swap them. They make a WORLD of difference in off road handling. Wheel like that and really do your research and figure out exactly what you want and not just do what everyone else does. I’ve had my truck for 2+ years and I’ve put easily 4 years of research into what I want. Granted I am methodical when it comes to builds, I’ve waited so much money in my teens and early twenties to learn that lesson. Start small, get a feel for your truck and decide how you want to use it, then mod accordingly.

 

Ignorant.

 

I don’t get it. If a guy wants to throw a bunch of parts at his truck and it makes him happy, what’s the big deal?

 

I did some research before doing my suspension lift.

Originally I wanted to do 5100s and AAL. A local well known shop recommended that I go with 2887 OME springs, nitro charger soft shocks and medium dobinsons leafs.

I wish he would have explained to me that my downtravel would only be 2 1/4”, but that’s on me. I would have gladly spent a bit more for extended travel shocks.

I’ve had this set up for about a year and I love it except for occasional shock top out, happens mostly in city driving. I removed my sway bar and truck rides very nicely.

 

From Tinkerer "In fact, as long as you verify how much shock travel is left at bumpstop, you can add these thin topout spacers to any standard travel coilovers." Ive seen in another video by shock surplus saying the bilsteins were longer then the OME by .75in. So the OME are probably stock length, meaning this should work for you. I think ballz was thinking of spring preload spacers going inside the strut assembly. if you have 2 1/4in down travel it should take you to 3 1/4in for a 50% increase. I bet that would solve the problem of the topouts.
https://youtu.be/l1tTelhdEiM?t=751
He talks about this spacer idea at the end. technically this would work even on the Bilstein's but at that point you would start having problems binding on the CV axle

 

I mean that’s fine learn the hard way if you wish. But don’t throw out the advice given to you by your peers who have the experience when you ask for said advice. That’s like buying condoms and never using them. His comment alone was ignorant, not specifically the fact he wants to learn the hard way lmao op sounds like a young guy with young money and no responsibility imo. Could just be a loaded web developer too…never know

 

I’m running the sans sway mod too on mostly stock suspension. Love it. Even in town and freeway driving. Can’t wait to see how it is with 700# springs tho

 

Wheels and tires are too heavy imo.

 

Again I asked for advice about fitment, and overall thoughts. Not for a philosophical debate about if I NEED to lift my truck. All this list does is improve your approach, departure, breakover angles and overall ground clearance. Of course obviously I dont need to do any of this. But it will without question make the truck better offroad with no real downsides outside of cost of parts/mpg which I am willing to pay for. I also own a F-150 and have owned many other vehicles. Theres been great advice in this thread but what your saying isnt advice.

 

I do plan on regearing when I feel I need it. Maybe right after the wheels and tires or after the bumper and winch. Probably 5.29s. Also going 285/75/17 tires now. Not sure If that will really effect the weight.

 

34” tires are typically 58-70 lbs. Stock are ~35. In my experience any tire over 55 lbs is very taxing on acceleration. I recommend 255/80r17.

 

No. I wasn’t. I was talking about the .5 of spacers on top of the spring below the mount. Per se like using 1/4” spacer from Coach Builder to get rid of the taco/tundra lean. .5 spacer isn’t going to help with topping out. Re read everything I said. I know it doesn’t make much sense right now but if you look and try to understand about re valving and spring rates one day you may understand. But do understand that 5100’s will not give you 2.5” of lift. Fox or king oe c/o’s will.