Show us your truck bed sleeping platform/drawer/storage systems

I made that little plywood drawer for the coleman stove, sleeping bags, etc but quite a bit of stuff ends up under the truck or in the cab at night. I think your best bet is making some plywood storage if you want to maximize space. I've thought about some cut outs or flaps to make getting things out of the cab side easier, but I don't think it would really work that well. Tri fold mattress is almost comfortable.

 

Pulled out my sleeping platform this week to haul something, and eeewwww!

Turns out the little moisture that got in during the last few rains created some mold..... this forces me to move on with my next plan taking the lessons I learned, and ideas shared on this forum. I'm gonna go an entirely different route with materials a nd design. Aluminum frame with abs panels for non Wright bearing, and some wHo knows what for the seating, platform areas.




 

Yeah I think you're right. Even just one plywood drawer for the camp kitchen and slim stuff would help a lot. I'll start with the three panels and the spine and see what I like and don't like and go from there. Thanks!

 

Unsealed wood or plywood will do this. I use a penetrating epoxy sealer on any wood added to the truck to prevent it.

 

I welded a full metal frame and metal drawers so no water issues there. The only wood is a 5/8" pressure treated plywood decking. I sold the setup after 3 yrs and there was 0 mold issues. I used the car was 4-5 times per week and the shell was not perfectly sealed so it did get slightly damp.

 

Hey all, Thought Id post this up here as it is a bit of a different design and works well for me. My design briefs were-Easily removable, As much headroom as possible, fitting bins underneath, access to anything under the platform, no drawers. I think I got all of those.

Basic design is two removable longitudinal sections and three removable center panels. The longitudinal sections are just inboard of the wheel wells, one horizontal piece and one main vertical. An additional rail on the outboard side sets into the bedliner a bit and gives the outboard side support.An end cap on the forward side and a gusset aft of the wheel well provide support from it collapsing in on itself. Hight is set by being 1/2" taller than the Medium Home Depot black bins with yellow tops. Two fit abreast and I can get three rows for a total of 6. Forward two bins have a high tech retreival system of a bit of paracord tied to them that you yank on and can pull the back four bins out.

The three center removable sections wedge the supports outboard and keep everything tight. No screws or bolts into the bed at all. It all comes apart in just a few minutes. I cant fit a full cooler in under the platform so pop up the aft section and store it on top while moving. This is the one big drawback so far. You can pull up the mattress and get to the stuff below if you had to but it is just way easier to pull everything out if you need it. I rarely have a need for anything under the platform anyway.

Side storage is kind of small, but good enough for tool bags, dog stuff and the two aft compartments are good to stash stuff you need easy access to as they are open to the rear. All have pull out lids on the top surface.

Mattress was a score from this forum, folding job from Amazon. Width is perfect. Hight is just even with the shell shelf. Length is about 1" too long, but squishes when you push the tailgate shut. super comfy and a real nice addition.

$125 Best Choice Products 4in Portable Full-Size Mattress, Folding Mattress Topper for Camping, Guest, Toddler, Foam Plush w/Carry Case - Gray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01INZBCJG?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Two sheets of 3/4" ply gets you all the main parts. one for the supports, and one for the center pullout sections. I Think I used some extra bits for the lid supports and bits and bobs.

 

well i went through the last 155 pages. mainly looked at pictures. read a number of posts. saved a lot of pictures and links to those posts. there is a ton of inspiration in this thread, from top of the line cnc/autocad stuff to thrown together with stuff in the garage.

i get my new camping stove this week and hopefully can start on a single drawer slide to hold all my camping stuff, including the new stove.

this may have been mentioned, but is the main advantage to using the skateboard bearings cost? i'm not super familiar with working with metal square/tubing that would be sandwiched between the bearings to let it slide. i did a quick google search for my area but wasn't sure where to find that metal anyway. the drawer slides are like 100$ for the 5ish foot ones, that sounds like the easiest way to accomplish a drawer.

also, i didnt see it on any picture, but did anyone add wheels to the back of a single drawer? something to help move it around if it goes in and out frequently? i'm thinking i can add an axle with wheels that would only touch when you lift up the front to help move around. it would probably take a bit of space and not sit flush with the bed near the cab.

 

I put 5-2” wheels on my tool drawer. It has 1/2” ply sides and a 3/8” bottom so the 5th wheel is in the middle. The wheels are set to poke through the bottom ~ 5/8” and follow the bed channels. I have the drawer on a pulley so I can haul it up against the cab wall and slide my folding saw horses in behind it. Tools and tool batteries are heavy but even with the thinner plys making a lighter weight drawer the wheels take the weight and it rolls easily.

 

Great build! The storage on the sides is nice!

 

Its all about organization. Every bit gets used at one point or another. Thanks!

 

I would be interested in see building plans or watch a build video. Could be built out for semi-permanent storage on the sides of your bed too

 

I think the skateboard bearings have a higher load rating at which point it comes down to how securely they’re attached and can remain rigid. For either one I’d use through bolts with fender washers and T-slot nuts for a flush inside surface(fenders with the bearings not the drawer glides) rather than lags or wood screws. The maximum load is going to be when the drawer is fully deployed.

 

Blueberry13, Plans? We dont need no stinkin plans! Yeah, Im more of a design as I go type of guy and I knocked this thing together in a weekend, more intent on getting it ready for the 2,000 mile road trip starting later that week than filming steps. But truly, there isnt much to it unless you need actual dimensions and measurements.

Longitudinals were cut to hight based on the bin hight. I used the ridge in the bedliner to keep it straight. and set it at the approximate width for two bins in the middle section. The tops were cut slightly wider than needed and fit to the outboard edge of the bed. Cut fit, cut again, grind and curse to get the outboard support to fit and screw that onto the top piece from above. Repeat for other side. Cut the forward end plate and screw in. Fit fiddle and fuck with the gusset aft of the wheel well until it fits and screw that in.

Cut the middle removable pieces, try to jam them in between the longitudinals. Figure out where the outboard edge is binding, trim that, repeat until the middle pieces slide in just enough to force the longitudinals hard against the edge of the bed and voila! Bob is your uncle.

Drill and router finger holes in the middle sections, layout and cut the "lids" for the storage bins. This was done with a circular saw, but drilling small holes and using a jigsaw would work as well. Drill and rout finger holes here. Round over all edges with a router and promise myself that one day Im going to paint it or carpet it. Still waiting. If anyone knows what they use to line the shells/toppers, it looks like some kind of spray on stuff Id love to know. otherwise I may carpet it one day, may not.

If you really want measurements I can go out and get em for you.

 

I am so happy I found this thread!!!!!!!!! I have been trying to dig through 150 pages of ideas the pas hours. Going to be living out of the taco full time starting may. Taco is built well, I love the idea of having a split bed and the option for having more bed space with just placing a second board across. I had an idea that I could put the dometic 50 recessed into a shelving and build around it, make it to it can be removed. And for all those who have slept on ICY nights, does that cheapo reflective bubble wrap stuff really work? there must be a more effective way to insulate the headliner at least?

 

depending on topper style, insulation material can vary. for fiberglass units with compound curves, fabric & spray contact adhesive seems to be the easy & practical way out.

for something built from aluminum & framing (with flat surfaces & framing), you can use rigid foam (the pink stuff but it can be blue or green) or 3M Thinsulate if you're flush. a more moderately price alternative is the quilt batting sold in sewing centers for comforters (primaloft?).

Hans over at the Sprinter used to sell the former.

if you are using an aluminum framed cap, use 3M VHB tape over the ribs before you panel so there is some semblance of a thermal bridge although the fasteners may still sweat/ frost depending on conditions.

using a thick compression gasket between the cap & bed rail helps cold air infiltration, as does gasketing around the tailgate & hatch window. seal the crack between bed & tailgate at the bottom, too.

$33 ESI Super Cap Seal 23 FT (1 1/2" Width x 1/2" Height x 23' Length) EPDM Rubber for Caps 200 lbs or Less

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7VU9BA?ie=UTF8

$36 ESI ROK BLOCK Tailgate Gap Cover 4.25" width

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPE4AP6?ie=UTF8

oh - even though it's pricey, use the 3M adhesive promoter on any place you add the tape especially when there are no mechanical fasteners to help hold things in place. it DOES make a difference.

$12 5952 VHB Tape: 2.5cm . x 15 ft. (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BU7038A?ie=UTF8

$14 3M 6396 Adhesion Promoter Attachment Tape Liquid Primer - 4 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3I1JR6?ie=UTF8

$28 ESI Ultimate Tailgate Seal with Taper Seal 10ft for use with Truck Caps and Tonneau Covers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IPQWXZQ?ie=UTF8

a bed mat helps everything you do in the back including making life quieter:

Toyota Bed Mat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SB03IS?ie=UTF8

 

You will be dealing with mold if you live in it. We generate huge amounts of moisture and caps are just not equipped to deal with it the way a normal dwelling is. Do what you can tell minimize growth such as washing bedding and airing out as often as possible. Living in it is a different scene from camping where you can go home and rest/refit. Respiratory health is your big risk here. I suggest you seek out sites that deal with living issues rather than camping solutions. Once you develop a chronic cough you will not be able to get over it by just toughing it out without changing the situation.

 

Finished the single person sleeping platform and the cubby boards today. Next up is a drawer and the other smaller side rail to hold up the second sleeping platform. Tie down locations in the third gen were super helpful to secure the bed in place with some inexpensive hardware from Home Depot! Amazon 3inch memory foam mattress arrives tomorrow, just in time for an 3 night camping trip to Moab! Also it’s kiddo approved!

 

Wow some great info in this thread idk how i missed this before! I did find some other threads on here that greatly helped with my decision making my sleeping platform i went basics for now to see how i like my setup. The only thing i need now is a mattress pad. I hope I don’t have any issues with mold as i used behr stain (which i found out after i used it that it is water based not oil based so hopefully it doesn’t get moldy!) and then stapled and glued out door carpet to the panels. In all spend around $150. I’ll post pics all set up later! I can say that the drawer ideas have given me some good insight into what I want as up until this point I was looking at rubbermaid style totes

 

For those with a double cab and nobody in the backseat on trips... I always recommend leaving your fridge or food cooler in the cab along with your dry food. Last thing you want is to attract bugs and critters into your truck bed where you sleep. Also, it saves on space since you're not using the back seat for anything. Under the bed platform I mainly use it for camping gear and the camp stove, making sure to clean it after every use. It seems many people want to cram everything into the bed of the truck, but most of these platform setups are only for one or two people and they have a double cab. Also, your fridge will be stoked to be in a cold air conditioned environment strapped down in the backseat during the day when driving. It's working a lot less to stay cool rather than in the hot truck bed. I run it off 12 volt in the cab and a big jackery overnight. Happy camping!

 

The Here’s the setup i’m just a weekend warrior for now so this is perfect