TAG Bundle for Leer and other hard shells

This is a thread for the FBC TAG harness bundle with more detail on specifics than I can cover in the product description.

Product link
User installation details
VLED Bed Lighting Kit

 

OK, so, what is this? Basically it's like this.

1. You buy a TAG fuse box and harness or get one with your Leer shell. I own two Leer shells, one is super old, one I bought new. I added a TAG to the old one and the new one came with it. It's not the sexiest fuse box but it's compact and gets the job done so I kind of like it.
2. You either send me the harness as a core return or to direct mod, or I use a clear / white connector instead of the black. I can't tell you how much the clear/white connector bothers me, the rest of the parts are all black but I can't seem to source the darn connector in black, just this white / milk / clear one. I hate it, but I know I have issues and the rest of you normal people don't care. ETA: one user helped me out by dying some of the clear connectors black. They look pretty good. So I have a few in black now and I’ll try to get more dyed in the future. So no need to send me anything.
3. You buy the FBC TAG bundle item
4. You buy the taillight fuse box solution from @switch. This one is semi optional. It’s really nice to distribute the ground even if you don’t use it for aux power. You can also just solve for ground yourself. The harness I provide assumes a small ground stud in the taillight cavity.
5. I build you the following:
   1. Brake T (positive only) in 24" length
   2. Bed Light T (positive only) in 24" length
   3. Lock T (need to know if you have the OEM lock harness or SET or PNL or something else)
      
   4. Power (+12v) from the fuse block in 4 at 24". NOTE: You are responsible for running 8-12 gauge power and ground into that fuse box, my harness assumes that part is done and I do not supply any wire for that.
      1. NOTE: I don't think there's a ton of value to running something like a surface mount USB charger through the shell to a socket or something. Fiberglass shells just seem like lousy places to mount stuff compared to the really nice bed rail system we have. I plan to do a nice blue sea power station in at least one of my trucks at some point (parts all in a bin waiting for me to install). So, I'd recommend all your aux power be mostly water resistant/waterproof and mounted to the bed rather than shell. Hence, actually running power into the fuse block is optional if you don't need it through the TAG fuse box. Ground, however, would be required.
   5. Ground hoop at 24" intended to go to the fuse box. If you want a bigger hoop, I can do that, but the fuse box solution, even if only used for ground, is the cleanest option.
6. Deutsch flange 6 position

You effectively get your dome light off the bed/cargo circuit, your brake light, a solid 12 gauge ground, lock and unlock, your aux power lead, and a clean flange. You drill a hole in your composite bed and mount the flange, then connect up the shell. When you take the shell off, you stuff in a deutsch connector with plugs (included in my kit) and it's a waterproof flange that should withstand a little abuse (maybe don't throw 100 lb boulders at it but if you do your hole up nice and high on the driver side near the tailgate it seems relatively safe to me)

Why? Perhaps a few reasons

1. I dislike dangling cables when removing a shell. Not that I remove my shells often.
2. The TAG fuse box has an achilles heel, those molex connectors aren't the best for repetitive connect/disconnect. Mine has had some legit trouble with terminals pushing into the box, notably the lock/unlock, leaving me a bit stuck at times and having to force open the crappy lock. Deutsch is far superior for connect/disconnect. Also, deutsch is waterproof, molex is not, so if you remove your shell it's ideal to have the connector protected from water intrusion.
3. Nice clean routing in the fender and taillight cavity

Last tidbits

1. I don’t have a source for screws for the flange and they don’t come with them. You could do black oxide or stainless or galvanized. Self tapping screws are nice. The composite bedside is forgiving and pre drilling is easy enough. I’d like to one day source a large pack of flat head black oxide screws for the flange if time permits me to shop around for a favorite.
   
2. One guy had his TAG mounted much higher than mine so I had to swap his flange to TAG harness portion for a longer one. Contact me if there is any concern on this topic. It seems LEER mounts these wherever they feel like it on any given day instead of the same spot every time.
   
3. To get this installed and routed you’ll almost certainly need to remove your beside cubby temporarily. Be gentle with the torx bolts when uninstalling it. You should be able to replace it at the end but you’ll want the space in the fender for your hands to route things.
4. I don’t have OEM bed lights (wish I did but my 3rd Gen is a ‘16 so it didn’t come with the cutouts) but the flange does fit in the spot above them if your truck does. For those without the cutouts you don’t have to worry about this unless you plan to cut and install. I know of one guy who did that. It seemed like a lot of work vs mounting lights under the bed rails.

 

I have one of these and it's been great!

 

I have a leer cap, so ..... interested

 

I'm updating the product to include a 12v lead by default and assuming anyone purchasing this item will also buy @switch 's taillight fuse box solution. It's the ideal way to distribute ground and opens the door for power as well, even if not connected at first. One thing worth mentioning is that I do not supply the power and ground inputs to the taillight fuse box, only the outputs to the shell from that fuse box.

I'll work to refine my lengths over the next few iterations and hopefully gather some photos of the installation.

 

Also I wanted to mention that DSIM makes a rock light harness which could be an option for dome light for anyone without a bed light connector (which is standard on 2020+)

 

Finally did my install today. I think the lock T could be 2-4” shorter. The ground maybe 2” longer. The brake connector doesn’t fit through the hole unfortunately so that’s one I gave to leave unpinned. The lock and bed T’s should fit fine.

 

Well sure enough I looked at my Leer shell and that cumbersome black box says TAG on it and it has fuses inside. It bothered me and was thinking about how to remove it but since you approve I can live with it now LOL.

The topper place that installed it has it working..but I do see the shortcomings and would like it cleaner.

A couple of questions:
1. If I buy the harness from you, will this just replace everything on the 'input' side of the TAG box? I wouldn't want to have to re-wire the upper part on the shell.
2. Any thoughts on incorporating a simple waterproof K4 toggle to interrupt the tailgate lock circuit? I would just assume leave mine unlocked all the time (99%), and manually flip the switch when I want the power to it back on. It bugs me that it is always wearing when I would don't need it. Sometimes I like access to the bed while the rest of the truck is unlocked for items of little/no value (moving blanket, grocery run, etc.)
3. Can the power lead be made longer-60" perhaps with a single connector on it (weatherpack? I know they don't make a single Deutsch). I am pulling power from a blue sea 12V panel on the passenger side, which pulls power from an aux battery on the passengers side firewall (Off Grid setup). It looks like an 8 guage fused at the battery so I think I am good there.

And if you don't mind some unrelated questions:
1. I am having a third brake light flasher installed by a warning light/strobe light company. Can/should this be installed on the shell side of the TAG box so I don't interfere with your solution?
2. Where on the frame do you suggest grounding? Since I am installing multiple grounds (rear light bar, etc.) and do you recommend using any bussbars for cleanliness and ease of addition/removal? I noticed this one:

$19 Blue Sea Systems 2020 POWERBAR BUSBAR DUAL STUD 3/8", Beige

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8L5AKE?ie=UTF8

Thanks in advance.

 

1. Correct
2. Use unlock to unlock or cut in your own switch
3. Get switch’s fuse box or cut and extend if you so desire.

Choice of third brake light should be independent of the stop signal.

frame ground above driver wheel on bolt, pairs nice with switch’s fuse box.

 

Thank you. So I understand it correctly, why/where in the circuitry is a +12V constant hot needed? Doesn't the LED light in the Leer shell pull power from the bed light T?

 

Yes. Constant power is not needed for anything other than the aux circuit. Which I find fairly useless. But I pin it since the switch taillight fuse box has both power and ground distribution and I like it for ground. So may as well pin power.

I have an aux battery myself and one day I’ll run power to the taillight fuse box from it with 4 or 6 gauge. I’ll do the last bit across the bumper.

for tailgate lock disable I think you’d want it to do both shell and tailgate together. So you’d want it upstream of the T.

 

Ok great. So if I really wanted to, I could not utilize the 12V+ intended for switch's fuse panel at all, and just leave this wire capped off indefinitely? And in my case, I would then use the T to the bed lights for power to the LED dome light in the Leer shell off the primary battery, not the AUX?

If so, I wouldn't mind doing it...I really don't need aux battery power to that little dome light. Only reason I did it in the first place is that I didn't want the guys at the topper install place running another lead through the firewall. It would be nice to remove the wire that they installed underneath the truck behind the tire connecting the 12V from the aux panel to the TAG box.

And I did look..sure enough the connectors on my TAG box are all black

 

Dome light is off the bed T.

You'd either cut off the hoop for power or tape it or attach it to the switch taillight fuse box if you get one but you do not have to feed it power for any reason unless you want to use the aux output from the TAG fuse box. Which I find semi useless for "aux" myself but I do plan to do two different sets of dome lights vs the one tube light the leer comes with.

 

I might try to offer a tailgate lock disable with sealed relay option. That would need battery power though. It’s a reasonable idea. I usually just unlock and open then leave open till I’m done loading. I’m in a super safe place but we still get people trolling vehicles for any unlocked and rifling through them for some dumb reason, always at night on a random weekday.

 

Now you are talking. I know you like relays..but is it really necessary if the switch is in the bed? Couldn't you just interrupt the circuit with something like this? https://www.mooreparts.com/k4-off-on-triple-sealed-switch-12-volt-20-amp-13-100/

And on the non-black connectors, are they nylon? Years ago I dyed a bunch of nylon parts including zip ties and Tamiya connectors with Rit dye and it came out very well. I still have some dark green ties on parts kicking around.

 

The reason I'm not keen on a switch is that you'd need to drill the bed for a specific switch (maybe no big deal but I also don't want that to be my concern) and you'd have a long run from the tailgate lock intercept to the switch and back which is unnecessary. Putting the relay near the intercept allows it to be a very short run with a signal level switch instead providing the smarts. And that opens up the possibility of a timer (keep bed unlocked for X hours/days) instead of a pure switch which once flipped kills locking till you remember to flip it back.

But mostly the extra length is annoying as the switch should be somewhere convenient. I think it'd be ideal to have that switch in the cab really but I could see others liking it in the bed.

I haven't attempted to dye the connectors I have but I could send an extra if you want to attempt that and see how it goes. They weren't expensive, but I do wish I could find them in black.

 

Makes sense. If a switch in the cab is a goal, is it possible to T somewhere before the factory/port tailgate retrofit kit picks up the signal (somewhere in the passenger footwell I think. I didn't install mine, port did, but I read this somewhere)? That way you wouldn't have to run a small (18 guage?) signal wire all the way down the frame rail. This kit may be useful for others too without the Leer shell who dont want to unlock their tailgate all the time.

 

There are 3 known versions of the tailgate lock harness, OEM, SET (southeast Toyota) and one other. If I do a lock disable it'll be done at the intercept at the rear bumper. I hear you on the extra harness to get there but I'd probably just provide about 60" and let the end user DIY the switch location and connection from there.

I purely in cab solution does seem possible though if you wanted to DIY. At that point I'd just cut and connect, it's an add-on harness anyway so you're not cutting OEM harnesses.

 

I have two shells, one has T handles and windoors so a total of 6 locks. It has a sucky Pop-n-lock tailgate lock that never really works well. I disconnected and capped at the disconnect for the custom harness I built for it b/c it got too annoying to futz with the lock just to get the tailgate to open, figure I'll go manual lock on the 6 T handles + tailgate if I ever want to pretend to lock things up.

Honestly, the shell lock is of near zero security anyway, the guys at the transfer station routinely twist and open the rear glass while it's locked. So, yeah, I mean, if you don't really care about the appearance of security then just skip the lock part? The tailgate lock itself, though, that's a bit more robust.

I think one other guy just did a pin switch to kill his tailgate lock. I see the potential value, I just think it's a bit silly to put that much thought and effort to avoid carrying your keys around and pressing a button.

 

Thanks for all your help. Basic question-while pulling power from the factory/accessory bed lights with the T, does this mean the cargo light on the Leer shell will be tied to the in-cab switch? Or does that T also have provisions for constant +12V hot. When in the garage I leave the liftgate open and occasionally use the Leer dome light without the key.

Also, what is the difference between the factory/port/accessory tailgate lock and the Southeast Toyota version? Not that I will ever see the latter, I am just curious.