Is there specifics to replacing calipers??

I am getting ready to replace my front calipers and I wanted to check if there were any specific procedures or steps to be taken for replacing rotors, pads and calipers? Does anyone have a guide to follow or procedures for doing this? I have all the parts just wanted to review the steps. This is a 2005 Tacoma . Thanks for your help.
Paul

 

The important part is to not let too much brake fluid run out.
Cap the brake line with a vacuum cap when you disconnect it from the caliper.
That way it doesn’t get lower the the brake reservoir. If you let too much leak out, you will get air trapped in the ABS module, and it’s a nightmare to get into out if you don’t have a scan tool to purge the module.

Other than that, it’s not thing different than doing a standard brake job.
Once the caliper is back on, open the bleeder and let the fluid fluid start to drain out on its own.
Once it starts to drain out the bleeder, do a regular bleed until no more air comes out.
(Pump brake pedal, hold, crack bleeder, repeat)

 

Like Mr Tnshooter said, don’t let the reservoir go empty. It’ll turn something simple into a big deal.

As a general rule, get more brake cleaner than you think you’ll need. Use line wrenches. When you think you’re done bleeding, pump n crack once more for good measure. Clean the flare nut fitting good with brake cleaner and air. Stand on the brake pedal, recheck for leaks. Be diligent to not get oily hand prints on the pad and rotor surfaces.

The 6 lugs have retaining pins that like to rust. I think people use caliper grease or anti seize on them.

 

Make sure to remove the old pads and hardware before removing from the vehicle, it’s much easier when it’s mounted.

Take your time and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

 

if you're in the New England area, have a brand new set in the box of Power Stop rotors and pads never opened

 

DONT BREAK THE HARD LINE…

 

Most important of all, take the pins that the calipers slide on out, clean them, grease them lightly and re-install. I got lazy once and didn't do that and had to replace the rotors in a short time. The brakes never retracted properly.

 

You might want to PB blaster every thread, the day before you do the work. Those parts, i assume have been on there for almost two decades.

 

Brake fluid is water soluble. Take care to not get it on the car paint or other important surfaces and always have some brake clean handy, but at the end of the day, if you screw up and get it somewhere you shouldn't, or you run out of brake clean, or something the likes, keep a spray bottle full of soapy water (dish soap works insanely.well to cut through oil) or a hose handy to wash it down.

I'm serious about the car paint. You DO NOT want that stuff touching it and staying on there very long.

 

Make sure the bleeder valve on each caliper faces up when you're done. More than one person has installed them upside down and if you do, you will never be able to bleed your calipers properly.

 

Wow, thanks to all you guys who offered up the tips. Much appreciated. I bought new hard lines bc the original are quite crusty and they look thin. Thanks again.
Paul

 

make sure you have a 10mm flare nut wrench for those, a standard 10mm will not work the same. Like someone else said, spray the threads heavy with PB blaster the day before, especially the hard line connections at both ends.

 

Aaaaaahaha, i work on a lot of cars and I've never even heard of this.

I believe you, that this has happened.

But you literally made me spit my drink out. Now i am sitting here contemplating if the caliper and line would fit that way.

 

Generally speaking, yes. All one has to do is install them on the wrong side of the vehicle.

 

I did mine 2 week ago. Bought OEM caliper from Toyota part direct, saved 27% of the price.

If you are in the salt belt, buy the Tube no 7 an 8 to replace the hard line going to the caliper. It will shear the second you turn the nut of the caliper/flex hose. The line can look good, but the crust build between the tube and nut and this break the line when you turn. You will need a "plug" to stop the oil dripping from the flex hose. The oem caliper had a plug protecting the hole who fit perfecly in. You don't want to drop the oil level in the brake reservoir too low or you will have to do a complete purge of the system and you will need to activate the ABS with a OBD computer... beside that if you have someone to help it will be easier to bleed the brake, start with the longuest line to bleed to the shortes one. Check the rear brake too if they need to be reajusted.

It was an easy job. The caliper had over 149K miles on it, i found a stuck piston on the driver side a month ago (had some noise when the piston did and stuck/unstuck move when braking). Ordered both side and when doing the job i found that the 4 piston on the passenger side where pretty stuck like not moving, they draged a little bit on the rotor. No damage fortunatly, it was recent since i did a checkup 3-4 month ago and it was "fine", i knew the end was near because the seal where all unseated.

Take your time, torque and double check, it's an easy job (like any brake job if they are cleaned at least 1 time a year) and don't be surprised if your brake pedal feel change. I got some "play" when the brake apply but it's because now all the piston and pad move better and disengage. If it's spongy you have air in the system.

 

Ok thanks. Where do I find the torque specs for the caliper bolts? Btw, I did buy new hard lines for that reason. I bought aftermarket calipers instead of OEM but we shall see.
Paul

 

Just a word of caution on aftermarket calipers. If you bought aftermarket remanufactured calipers, even though they are sometimes OEM cores, the seals and hardware they install are not up to OEM standards. If you bought new aftermarket calipers, nothing is up to OEM standards. In either case, they will not last as long as new or remanufactured OEM calipers.

 

If your truck is a 6 lug, it is 91 ft/lbs.
Or see the link below

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

Thanks for the specs. The calipers are from Pat mccleish at automotive brake solutions. I hope they are good but will keep you posted. I will offer my review once they are installed. Thanks

 

Crazier things happen. I was once at a hobby shop and got called over to take a look at an acquaintance's MR2, he was having brake problems on the car he had just bought. Popped the hood and immediately the master cyl reservoir looked...off. The color through the plastic wasn't right. Opened the cap and found a familiar neon green liquid. Sniff tested it, yup, smelled like glycol. Quick google frenzy to check my sanity and make sure there were no exotic green brake fluids out there....nope. Someone put coolant in the furthest, tiniest reservoir they could find away from the engine, which, BTW, is located in the rear of the car.