squeaky taco?

does anybody know what is going on...




front end is basically all new and serviced except for original steering rack.
have sprayed silicone, and so far greased all zerks except for RF LCA LBJ/outer, that seemed clogged. Gonna hit it with a torch see if that unclogs it and try again. But regardless the last time it was greased was less than a year ago. I believe Moog HD aftermarket pressed into used OEM arms.

May try upgrading from silicone to spray the hell out of everything in AeroKroil or 3-in-one.
Popped out right front shock eye to lube that area with silglyde, gonna do the same on LF and maybe replace hardware since it can only be re-used so many times before it looks beat.

Only other stock (old) parts in that area are front cab mounts but doesn't seem to be coming that area.
Given the inner and outer tie rods have been replaced, I don't see how the rack could do it.

LCA bushing hardware was torqued to spec at ride height. IDK if they need R&R to clean and grease (JD Pivots); I'd guess no and that it's something else.

Does it most if not all of the time, but a bit less so after the truck has been sitting and first starts to take off.
It's confusing as hell given most of the parts have been replaced.
-inner tie rods
-pivots
-outer tie rods
-spindle gusset
-UCA
-LCA
-WarFab tie rod sleeves
-alignment done
-wheel bearings
-CV boots
basically all done...

It sounds like metallic resonance transmitting into RF lower control arm. I can even feel it by hand in that LCA if I rock the truck, but that still doesn't narrow it down.
The squeak is "generated" by moving up and down on the truck, whether that be grabbing somewhere to push up and down like the bumper, or normal suspension operation while driving (aka a lot)



Has anyone else ever had such horrible squeaking and what was it?

do I go to the taco shop to get sauce for it and pour each place? Red or green?

 

Sounds to me like a bushing issue. I'd say double check the bushings in the lower and upper control arms for any serious wear. Many of the videos that I am seeing that have a similar noise to this seem to be related to either the upper or lower control arm bushings being over-worn or under-lubricated. As a test, give the joints some lubrication and see if that reduces the noise at all.

These videos are timestamped to the important parts.
https://youtu.be/wgUh90q7Kl8?t=238
https://youtu.be/uahddAXJRww?t=24

Here is another thread with an issue similar to yours. This one appears to have found an issue with the leaf springs. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...at-noise-may-not-be-your-leaf-springs.464993/

 

I had a front end creak/squeak that was driving me nuts. Assumed it was the uniballs on my ICON UCAs, but ended up popping my hood to get a better listen and BAM, squeak was gone! Dry-lubed the latch spring, latch, rubber bumpers and hinges and it's been quiet since. Not exactly sure which one it was but it worked. Thought I would throw it out there

 

thanks
I did spray a lot of lube to no avail
I may try loosen and retorque bolts later. Though they’ve all been torqued before at ride height

so far it sounds like right front
Lower control arm
I suspect the ball joint
Gonna grease it again and see if it helps

 

update:

figured it out. Was as I suspected.
right front, lower control arm, outer ball joint, needed greasing.
Tried week or two ago but it didn't work.
Something clogged. Either the zerk, grease gun tip looking messed up and old, or both. I read they don't last.
Replaced grease gun tip with new that seemed to fit better. Wiped zerk and sprayed Kroil. Didn't waste time trying heat.
Grease finally went in, watched it pushout the boot, squeak now gone.

 

Do you have a picture of where the lower control arm outer ball joint zerk fitting is or where to grease it?

 

running rebuilt OEM LCA's with I believe

$24 Moog K80827 Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint for Toyota Tacoma

Moog K80827 aftermarket outer LBJ that came with 45deg angle greasable zerk fitting

they are kind of a pain to get to. Had to try all kinds of things like turning the steering wheel to lock, turning the zerk a bit, or jacking up the truck some to make room to fit grease gun.
If doing it again I'd probably keep in mind ideal zerk access location when rebuilding LCA on the bench.

 

Got it. Do the oem lbj’s have a zerk fitting or no?

 

no.
It might be possible to grease OEM LBJ sneaking into the boot peeling it back. Or poking through with a needle. Idk if the new hole would need some kind of sealing or not.
Mine started clicking over bumps after 10yr (end of life) and replaced them. Serviceable components > non serviceable anyway.

 

Remember, if your ball joint (or anything else for that matter) got to the point where there was so little lubricant that it squeaked, you were metal on metal. Once that happens, you start wearing things and adding grease is only going to mask the wear.

 

it’s quiet now. Not squeaking anymore. Not clicking. Doesn’t have play. Low miles on part.

problem is fixed

 

$50 Lincoln 5805 Impact Fitting Cleaner for Cleaning Hardened Grease from Clogged Grease Fittings and Joints by Forcing Light Oil Directly into the Fitting

https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-5805-Fitting-Cleaner/dp/B003J9GY1I

$33 LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool.

https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-fi...13a-4509-836e-d863760a38bb&pd_rd_i=B00H7LPKKU

Here’s a couple things that help clearing a clogged zerk.

A trick. Unscrew the clogged zerk. Bend a cotter pin 90 degrees. Shove it in the hole & dig out what you can. Spray penetrant in the hole, dig more. Replacing the zerk with a new one can help. Spray more penetrant in the hole & quickly put the zerk in. Sometimes that’s all you need to do, grease will go in. If not, use the clearing tool. I use it with penetrant and light oil. It works great on STRAIGHT zerks. Angled type just break off. In that situation, looks like the ball joint has a straight zerk.

Safety. Grease guns can create lots of pressure. It’s pretty easy to tell, the hose will get super stiff. So don’t let it squirt out & cause harm to yourself.

 

I was looking at a cleaner

honestly determined the grease gun tip failed as it stopped working on any other zerk. It functioned again after getting a new $5 tip. Figured at that price worth a try. Have heard of them failing and it’s old.
I’ve got LocknLube quick tip also but doesn’t fit there or certain other zerks like front propshaft area

started with easiest and cheapest first by cleaning LBJ zerk with wire brush, brakleen, rag, and multiple sprays of penetrating oil

 

Honestly, the only reason I own the locking tip is because it came with a manual grease gun I needed for where I can’t use the pneumatic one.

I can’t justify paying that much for 1 piece I already know won’t work in several situations because it isn’t going to fit and I paid 10 bucks for 3 of the regular type.

The clearing tool, sometimes it takes a couple tries. I’ll slam some penetrant in, grease won’t go in. But next time it’s due to be lubed, the penetrant loosened it up sitting in there to allow grease in.

 

Could be a few things but not the bushings if oe style. Nothing moving there. Outer sleeve is pressed into the arm and inner sleeve held stationary by about 70 ft lbs of force. Nothing is rotating in this type of bushing. Just the rubber flexing. Aftermarket urethane bushings are different and the inner sleeve rotates inside the bushings. These will squeak, sometimes even when lubbed. Ball joints tend to make clicking types sounds and not squeak.

 

it was the ball joint. It squeaked. It no longer squeaks.