Yokohama Geolandar M/T on a Stealth Customs Ray10 (or Blaze10)

Hey everyone, new here, so forgive me if this has already been asked or posted. Is anyone running a Yokohama Geolandar M/T on a Stealth Customs Ray10 (or Blaze10?) I'm probably going to go with 33's, but am considering 35's. Which offset did you choose?

I have a 3.5" lift. I will be adding an SSO winch bumper in a few months, currently am running a 31.5" tire. Hoping the winch bumper allows for some more clearance, but from research, have realized it's really the back of the wheel well that's the point of concern. IF you are running a similar lift, AND are rocking the 33's, did you need to do a cab mount chop??

A lot of questions packed into one post...answer what you can! Pics appreciated! Thanks!

 

Running either flavor of the SCS wheels, given their offset/backspacing, and anything 33"+, you should most definitely plan for a CMC. You might be one of the lucky few who can get away with not rubbing the cab mount if you have aftermarket UCA's with added caster to push the wheel forward, but if you intend to do any sort of wheeling/flexing/anything off the smooth roads, you're probably going to want that cab mount chopped to make some more room anyways. 33's are easily doable. 35's are a whole different ball game, and its not so much making them fit, as it is doing other things like airbox relocate/snorkel, wheel well liners, CMC/pinch welds, etc.

Also, welcome to TW!

 

Yes, you definitely should do a CMC with 33s. Some 35s will clear the UCA with -10mm and some will not so it can be hit or miss with different brands of tires. To be safe, we always like to recommend -38mm with 35s. This combo creates even more rubbing and a ton more cutting involved, but it looks sooo good. At the end of the day, any setup is possible as long as you're willing to put in the effort.

 

Ok great y'all, thanks!
Was figuring I'd go with the -38. I've seen pics with similar builds to mine and it give a perfect stance. Now I have to decide on 33's or 35's...on the 17" SCS wheel (either Ray or Blaze 10)

Next follow up question or thing to help me decide... I'll probably stick to a 33" just to have added flex/travel room and to save money haha...

I LOVE the Yokohama Geolandar MT's (G003), but I'm deciding between it and the Falken Wildpeak AT3. I know I can't go "wrong" with either and that it will really come down to me committing to MT's if I'm gonna do it...I daily drive my Taco and love going on long trips with it. I also now really appreciate grip factor on wet roads bc I got in a wreck with my truck last year and I kinda think my Dynapro's are to blame. (I wasn't going that fast, and was over a car length behind the person in front of me. I digress.) I definitely want something that will perform offroad well, but don't want to compromise my ride quality too much on the street. I've heard the G003 really isn't that bad on the street. I just keep going back and forth in my head as I figure out what to pick.

If I go with the AT3's, I'm considering I might do them in a 35" but then I'm opening up a whole new can of worms with re-gearing, etc. I want to get the most out of my lift and a CMC so that's why I'm considering going 35" to give myself a slightly bigger truck

 

...Aka please talk me out of going the 35" route haha

 

Maybe take a long hard look into this thread to get a better understanding of what it takes to actually go the 35 route:
Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments) | Tacoma World

I'll just be blunt, because I wish someone would've been with me. I researched tires/lifts/wheels/etc for years before I ever made a decision. I researched anything and everything I could to build a case for making a daily-drivable, lifted, mud-tired, armored, etc truck to be good at everything. Its not going to be what you hope it will be. Good offroad = bad on road, good on road = bad offroad. You can go big, regear, get an ECU tune, find another air intake solution, rip out wheel well liners, cut some frame, hammer some pinch welds, and make buddies with an alignment shop, and you can have a really awesome capable offroad truck, but its not going to be what you hope it will be on road. The opposite is also true, a street tuned truck isn't going to give you the same level of offroad capability as a dedicated offroad build. Its all about balance, and the truth is when you're trying to find the right balance, you're giving up alot of comfort/capability on both sides of the spectrum. Luckily, these trucks are plenty capable as is a few simple mods can go a long way. I think the best advice anyone can give, go use it how you want to use it as is, and replace/upgrade things as you see fit. It will be more enjoyable.

 

Well said, I appreciate this for sure! My truck is already capable off road, the 4WD systems in these trucks are pretty incredible. SUPER torquey, so honestly having the tires I have for now is getting me by because A: I'm maximizing travel/flex and B: They have decent enough traction to get me by in offroad conditions, and like I said, the 4WD really puts in the work. I'll go through that thread you sent! Thanks! (I'll buy myself more time...will prob stick with 33's)

 

I still can't find anyone who's actually running the Geolandar G003 on a Ray10 or Blaze10... I'd love to see pics if anyone is doing it!

 

Lots of SCS wheels in this thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/yokohama-geolandar-mt-g003.571954/page-51#post-28060449

 

Ok sweet there it is! Thanks!

 

I'm with you 100 percent on this. My old colorado zr2 was on 35s, regeared, tuned, welded on sliders, full skids all that fun stuff was my daily and I have a long ass hwy commute to work. Now granted with a 1in level it's alot easier to clearance for 35s on those trucks, it's still a major compromise for daily driving. Looked cool sure not as capable as I expected. Broken every 3 months, alignment was out everytime you wheel it. My 285s did alot better in snow then my 35s.

My big issue was my brothers stock sport on 255/85r17 falkens was better in snow then my truck. Sure I did somewhat better in summer wheeling in certain situations with f/r lockers but it always drove me crazy when we were on the lake and I was struggling. Learned alot of lessons with that truck.

Like wider tires may float on top of snow but it comes at the cost of grip. so I would always float on top then slide left or right and get stuck. Or get stuck in 6 inches of hard snow because the tires couldnt get out of their own way and move forward. While him on narrow tires would dig in and grip then keep moving.

So when I bought my pro I said fuck it I'll do practical mods and run 255s and leave the suspension alone. ADM delete, core shifter, g003s now I have a much better daily with alot less bullshit issues from bad ass looking 35s.

At least it's more reliable and a hell of alot more fun to drive. Sorry to derail the thread but I do believe more people need to be honest with themselves about what they need there vehicles to do. For me it's ice fishing and getting into the boonies to shoot guns and whatnot.

 

Couldn't say it any better. I also think it should be completely acceptable for people to admit, if only a 1% significance, that some mods are for aesthetic pleasure only. Some of us just like the look, and have no need for many of the "offroad mods" we do.