What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I've had this in my wish list for a while, though idk anyone who's tried it. Was thinking about using it on the firewall, fenders, and maybe hood

$100 Second Skin Audio Spectrum Liquid Sound Deadening Spray and Paint - Water Based Viscoelastic Vibration Damper for Automotive Insulation (1 Gallon)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6C9BJS/

 

I finally tackled the high mount brake light LED swap.

Drilled off the heads of those fasteners to allow removal of the brake lamp housing without headliner removal gymnastics.

Fastened LED housing with clip nuts/tinnerman retainers.

Mike

 

Interesting. I hadn't thought of the liquid application approach. that on the fenders would do a lot I'm sure.
My plan had been to use some 80mil

MAT66 ProBlack 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Vehicle Audio Sound Insulation and Dampening Material

butyl matting, and then put some of

$50 Siless Liner 157 (4 mm) mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Closed Cell Foam & Heat Insulation mat - PE Foam Sound Deadener Material & Heat Barrier

this or

$165 Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro - 2 in 1 Sound Insulation for Cars - Mass Loaded Vinyl and Closed Cell Foam - MLV Noise Barrier Made in USA (2 Sheets))

this on top of that before the vinyl floor.
I'll have to look into that liquid stuff though. Might be easier to just do that as a base and then put some MLV on top of that.

 

Just bear in mind the more you stack under the carpet, the harder it gets to get things to fit back together. I have a layer of roof liner (that tar roll stuff), a layer of open cell foam, and mass-backed carpet. My Huskey floor liners don't fit, my rear plastic side panels are basically friction fit, my kick panels only fit because I have them screwed in lol
... And that's just the floor....

 

Closed out a week of design and building I now have an easily removeable 2-bike carrier. While I transport my bike inside the camper, I do occasionally carry a friend's or two's bikes. I can finesse the 2nd bike in the camper but it is a bit of a PITA. I researched available hitch mounted racks but none would work with my swing arm and the biggest is they was significantly out of my budget. So, this is the result of a lot of imagining, measuring, and seeing what I already had in terms of materials.

The carrier slips into a couple of 1-1/4" receiver hitches welded to the bottom of the swing arm.



The parts after painting. The trays were made from a Yakima rack tray that I used a 4" PVC connector pipe to reform for fat bike tires. The wrap-around, anti-vibration clamps (McMaster) secure the Yakima round bars to the square tubing.

 

What is this switch for, to prevent theft?

Perhaps interrupting power to the starter rather than the ignition would be better?

 

My tacoma has been in the shop for over a month with break issues, just got it back with bonus exhaust problems.
I’m told it has an exhaust leak, and I have no idea how to go about finding it and fixing it. Looking for tips… it has its original TRD cat-back exhaust, which I think is showing its age.

 

On a cold start you can spray the various joints with soapy water from a spray bottle and if it bubbles you have a leak there. If you try to do it hot the stuff just steams right off

 

That makes sense. Thanks!

 

The switch I put in interrupts power to the fuel pump. I cut into it where it runs under the carpet and goes out of a grommet under the driver's seat. I just ran my wire up to a switch that's up inside the frame of the seat. So far it works pretty well, I'll flip it if I park in a sketchy area or if I have to park and then leave some distance from the truck. I didn't put it on the starter because I didn't want to mess with a relay or have obvious wires under the dash and if my switch fails it's not that hard to get to my splice and hotwire the fuel pump if need be

 

Pulled the front axle out to move it forward and inspect some stuff.

 

Hovering your hand over the joints works as well, you will feel it puffing out.

 

Out with the old dried up worn out Coopers, went with 265/75-16 Yokohama M/T G003. This was also in preparation for the Tundra brake upgrade. Vision 84 D window steel wheels, 16X8 with -12 offset. I will be running a one inch spacer to clear the upcoming calipers, everything should fit fine. I did have to trim the back of the fenders and bend over the pinch weld. It barely rubs at full lock, I can live with that.

 

Also, the original Arizona frame.

 

Wasn’t done today, but finished about a week ago with ARB bumper install and OME rear spring and front coil over install. About a 3 “ lift overall

 

So I am still on deployment status, *thought I would be done by now) and I ordered my OVRLND camper.
It is due to be installed this month, so I have had my son working to get it ready. This is its current state.


It hasn't looked like this in years. It also makes it rough walking through all of this with my family from across the pond.

 

Stay safe.

 

Stuff a shop vac in the tail pipe with the hose connected to the blow side and get some soapy water to spray around seams.

 

Got my trans cooler all done. Fabbed up the bracket last night and this morning got it mounted to the truck and all the plumbing done this morning. About ready to put the front back together

 

I installed some Stoptech brake lines. After installing I noticed that the lines rub on my coilovers (Camburg/Sway-a-Way 2.5) at full lock. There are wear marks on the rubber lines I removed that make me think this is a problem with the coilovers and not the brake lines.

Has anyone else seen this problem? @Speedytech7 I think you have the same coilovers.

I'm wondering if I should flip the banjo fitting 180 degrees so the line angles toward the caliper instead of away. I'm worried that this might put the line too close to the wheel. The rubber lines had the line angled away from the caliper. They had an indexing tab, so I'm sure they were installed correctly.