What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

hopefully the greasy dirt that was all over my latex glove from fiddling around squeezing my hand and bulb in there doesn’t burn mine out. Just replaced both this weekend.

 

When I did my lift I found it easiest to do front all at once and rear all at once that way if something goes bad you can still limp around looking goofy with one end in the air.
For rear springs I lifted the rear end just enough so the axle and rear springs could flex to full stretch without hitting the ground then I put a jack under the pumpkin lifted a bit and undid all the connections. make sure you undo the brake line bolt so you don't overstretch the soft lines. then once everything is disconnected from the springs drop the axle a little and then you can undo the springs from the truck. this also allows for a taller spring to be reinstalled with the axle lower. Then you want to just snug everything up and put the truck back on its tires THEN torque everything. Otherwise you get binding issues if you don't torque at full weight.

I am not familiar with Atlas springs but are they 4" of lift? If so how far do they droop and how far do they squish when flexed? If they droop a bunch your shocks and brake lines will be act as a limit strap if you aren't replacing them from stock which is not good at all. I would highly suggest getting longer soft lines as well as longer shocks. If they lift 4" and flex further than that you could get away with B110 shocks which are made for 3-4" lifts or at the very least 5125s which are made for 2-3.5" lifts. soft brake lines are made by a bunch of different companies just get braided to add some strength to them. I went with Wheelers 4" extended lines they went on great, getting the stock ones off was the biggest issue I had of my entire rear end. Also are you planning a carrier bearing drop bracket? lots of guys have vibration issues on take off after lift because drive lines are no longer aligned.

For the fronts the UCAs will give you a fit when you try to pull the long bolt out because the bolt contacts the inner fender before being completely removed. There are two common ways of getting past this. 1) buy spare bolts, cut the stock ones and replace the bolts in the opposite orientation or 2) grab some vice grips and bend the fender enough to get the bolts out then back in. I bent the fender cause it was pretty easy to do and I didn't have to replace the bolts. Other than that UCAs are pretty easy just get everything looking close so you can drive it to the alignment shop and be sure to give the alignment shop the user manual from SPC if it has alignment specs included. My JBAs had a couple pages on caster, camber, and toe specific from JBA. Otherwise most alignment shops align to stock spec which wont work with a lift. I have heard SPCs have much more adjustment options and some times throw off new alignment techs (and some skilled if they have never seen SPCs)


Carrier bearing drop kit: https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p126/Old_Man_Emu_Carrier_Bearing_Drop_Kit_-_FK29.html
Wheeler's extended rear brake lines:

 

Having just replaced 2nd gen old stock for new 3rd gen stock leaf springs last weekend I can tell you that, simply swapping stock 3 leaf for stock 4 leaf, working in the driveway, we came very close to stretching brake hoses beyond the limit. Not a bad job, especially with a 2nd set of hands, to slide out the old and slide in the new springs. I would not install any lifting springs without extended brake lines. Also, as stated in the previous post, stock shocks would be no good with any lift.

 

2013 PreRunner 2016 Sport Wheels, 2024 TRD Pro center cap, Heritage Grill, UWS low profile toolbox, Running Boards, all lighting replaced with LED inside and out. Rancho Shocks and Struts. Infinity tweeters and mid range Speakers, Alpine under seat sub and amp. TRD shift knob and JVC media player. Replaced both inside door handles with chrome from Scion. Painted calipers. Bridgestone A/T Revo 3’s.

 

Good idea to use 2 ratchet straps. I wrap them around the rear axle, one anchored towards the front of the truck, and one towards the rear. This way, you can use the ratchet to pull the axle forward or back to get it to seat.

 

+1 for access cabs

 

That wheel and tire combination on the top blue truck looks so good. I like white letters and machined aluminum in my opinion is the best choice for blue or red vehicles.

 

Got it back from the shop late last night. Turned out just the hard line running to the clutch slave had rusted through. Master cylinder and clutch slave were both fine. $180 later she’s back on the road!

 

Nice. I have a white truck too. When I ordered my FN 5 star wheels I was going to get gun metal grey but they were on backorder so I ended up with black. I have thought about machining them down to the raw aluminum but I'm a bit worried I'd screw it up.

 

Love the 4runner wheels.

 

You could buy mine in the tires for sale section.

 

Haha. I commented on yours for sale. I'm on the opposite side of the country.

 

I figure I gained 20 mpg hwy and lowered my carbon footprint around 97%.

I try to do my part.

 

Don’t have the cash for all the lift parts, so I’m doing a lot of small things and DIY stuff.

don’t mind the old mudflaps. I’m going to remove them and cut some length off and put them back on. I actually drug a front mud flap going over a speed bump the other day…

 

Amazon.

Genuine Toyota Parts - Taco Exhst Tip Blk (PT932-35180-02)

$78 Toyota Genuine Parts - Taco Exhst Tip Blk (PT932-35180-02)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DT4ZPJ5

 

Fixed my thermometer/compass yesterday! I saw a YT vid of a guy replacing the surface mount resistors with through-hole for the pair shown below, so I figured I’d look there first. Broken solder joint on one of them! Luckily we have all we need at my office, including a microscope. I’ve never done surface mount electronics before, but it was pretty easy with the microscope. Just hit the solder joints with some heat and a tiny bit more solder and the unit came right back to life. I hit both sides for each of them to be sure.

 

Nice

 

Good job soldering the overhead thermometer!