AGM Battery

Anyway, truck battery (original) coming up on 4 years old. Still works fine, but being as I live somewhere where it can get in the 90's during summer and -10 in winter, it runs the gambit.
But, I always try to head trouble off at the pass, have been thinking of getting a new batt for peace of mind.
Am considering an AGM batt.
Saw a YouTube video yesterday of... Let's say a questionable source.... (Not 'Care Car Nut' or anything that you can take as gospel) and they claimed that a AGM batt needs to have the voltage bumped up a bit by reprogramming the ECU. Otherwise the batt will never get a full recharging while driving. I'm assuming the reprogramming bumps up the voltage regulator output. So being as I've never ever heard this before....
A: Is this really a thing?
B: Or is the person who made the video full of shit?
C: If this really is a thing, has anyone ever done the reprogramming?
D: Has anyone replaced their batt with an AGM, never touched anything, and never had any issues?
What say ye?

 

It's really a thing.
And they are heavier.
And they cost more.
And at the end of the day you probably won't 'save' by buying it, it will need replacing as well.

I buy a new battery every 2 years for all my cars.
NeverStart ( i mean EverStart )....

90 degrees and -10 isn't that harsh, but I would certainly replace it now rather than risk
needing a jump in the middle of nowhere.

We saw temps of 110+ for 30 days straight last year, some days reaching 115-118.
I've seen the airport shut down because temps busted 120.
The prior 30 days was 100+ as were the following 30 days.
Wipers melted onto the windshield. Lethal temps.

 

It’s true. A tune will adjust the charging voltage for an AGM battery.
The stock charging voltage will keep the agm battery at 80%~ and people run them like this fine from what I read. Some people also just give them a full charge from a battery tender (designed for AGM batteries) like once a month.

I think they also sell voltage boosters you can put inline in the charging system somewhere but not too familiar with that.

 

Apparently if you get an aftermarket tune you can have the voltage bumped up to cover the AGM battery's needs.

 

I don’t see the upside. I can replace a regular battery more often, save money, and still have more reliability since I’m replacing every 36-40 months.

 

I have a dual battery setup with two AGMs, due to having a fridge. I did a test to see the power usage by the fridge on the auxiliary battery, on a sunny, September day, including while in my garage over a weekend. I first hooked up the batteries to a CTEK charger, having them at 13.1v, then checked them at different times. Readings are here, and you'll note the state of charge of the starter battery, which twice, read 12.97v and 12.91v after driving.
Off-Grid Engineering Dual Battery System Q&A

(FYI, with the dual battery system, when the engine is running, both batteries are connected. When the engine is off, batteries are disconnected.)

 

I run x2 power agms, 1 as my house battery and 1 as my starter. I did the diode to bump up the voltage, see 14.2 -14.6...battery stays healthy, feel more comfortable running the radio etc for extended periods of time.

X2 power batteries are re branded northstar. Come with a great warranty.

 

My Optima Red Top is reading over 14 volts while the Taco is running, with no diode mod. No issues with the battery staying charged when sitting for weeks. Bonus: The 20 pound weight reduction got rid of some Taco lean.

 

I rattle my batteries to death and there's always corrosion on my terminals and carrier. I replaced my battery in a hurry and forgot. New one leaks.

I do highway speeds on gravel roads often as a reference.

 

What is the lifespan of the OEM battery? .

 

1 to 8 years from what I've seen reported here.

 

80k miles

Mine lasted around 4 years. Bought an Interstate from Napa auto parts and seems to be going well for the last couple of years. OEM battery seemed to produce a lot of corrosion on the terminals while this aftermarket one doesn’t seem so bad.

 

Mine started crapping out, and the positive terminal started leaking, at 5 years.

 

Thanks for the input so far guys.
The reason I was looking at a AGM was:
A: Rated at a lot higher CCA. About 200 amps more than I'll ever need. Just seems nice to have on hand.
B: Some of the things I've read, they say it has a certain amount of 'deep cycle' properties. Which, since I camp in this, thinking I can run the inverter longer before I have to run the truck to charge the battery back up.
I wouldn't mind getting a tune to increase the voltage output for a AGM. From what I can tell, it seems like it needs to be bumped up about a volt over stock. Something in the neighborhood of about 14.5 v.
Can this be programed without changing anything else? I'm perfectly happy with the way the truck is, as is.
Does the added voltage have any potentially harmful affect on the rest of the truck...? Say, any of the gazillion other little computer modules in the truck? I know there is some lee-way on operating voltage, but I don't wanna push my luck.

 

My Group 31 AGM write up is over here I may have gone with the Dakota Lithium battery, but I don't think it was out yet.

The group 31 starts the truck super fast, BTW.

I also have the

$56 Blue Sea Systems 7635 m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect

$75 Blue Sea Systems 7635 m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect
it shuts down my aux fuse panel whenever I'm getting low on juice . No matter what, I come back to a truck that starts.

 

What "engine running" detect circuit are you using?

 

Since you have 200A more capacity than what you say you need, I see no reason to get a complete charge on the AGM battery regularly; an occasional charge would do no harm and is what I do when I can remember. Deep cycle is what the AGM is for, so I feel you are on the correct path.

AGMs don't leak and cause corrosion, a plus. The "added" voltage is not added, but lower than what the AGM would like to see with the engine charging. No harm to the truck as its charging voltage is not changing, unless you do a tune. I can't recall any people here on this site using the voltage increased tune reporting any problems with the higher voltage. I regularly see 14+ volts for a brief time while driving. In these trucks the alternator is controlled by a digital signal (LIN), not a voltage regulator; all contained within the alternator.

A tune can change the charging voltage but is in my opinion, so far (I reserve the right to change my mind), not necessary. You seem to be happy with the truck as it is. You will have to ask the tuner people if they have a discount for a "voltage only" tune. Perhaps one of them will join in the discussion.

I run three AGMs, no tune, just a solenoid to connect one to the other two. Don't know how many years they will last with refrigerator, winching and who knows what else I will add in the future.

I hope I have addressed all your questions.

 

I have two battery load testers and they really do help in determining the battery’s state of health so you can replace them accordingly. An ‘analog’ model,

$44 Schumacher BT100 Schumacher Electric 100A Car Battery Load Tester and Voltmeter, for 6V/12V Batteries Up to 1000 Cranking Amps, Charging System Diagnosis, BT-100, for Power Sport, Automotive, and Marine Batteries

Schumacher BT100 (HB has a similar model), and a digital model, Topdon AB101.

 

The Off-Grid Engineering dual battery kit came with a Blue Sea automatic charging relay. I as well have a dual battery setup in a Jeep with a National Luna split charger.

 

Thanks.