Hey Connecticut, our backs hurt

So I am trying to decide how I want to run the lights/solar panel/additional powered items from my roof rack to my secondary battery - which is located in the storage cubby behind my rear seats. Any one know if there are pre drilled holes from the factory on the rear cab wall or under the seats? I would really rather not make my own lol.

Also debating whether or not I want to have:

1) the fuse panel in the cab with the battery
2) do the ever so common behind the tail light mount
3) make my own dedicated panel location and build or make a weather proof box and mount it in the bed/bed rack

I'd rather run one large awg wire to the secondary battery as opposed to multiple smaller awg wires. I also don't feel like routing everything to the front of the truck either as that seems silly and a waste.

What say the hive?

 

@GarlicFarts
Thoughts?

 

There are holes you just have to remove or cut the grommet. Pull up the rear seats. They can also be seen from underneath

 

I don't recommend removing grommets. There are may replacements to be had on Amazon if you know the size of the hole.

 

Agreed

When I did my duel battery behind the rear seat I had to remove it to fit the wires thru, they were huge. I did put a replacement in and siliconed the hell out of the hole to get it water tight.

 

Ditto, had L5-S1 micordiscectomy back in 2017

 

I ran my solar panel to the main battery. Then main battery through firewall to rear seat.

100W solar panel will keep up with a fridge in the main battery. More than a fridge and you'll want to keep the secondary. I just ran 8AWG to the back seat for now. Plan to tap that put 12V in the bed eventually too, but for now it's just there.

When my stock battery kicks it I'll get an AGM.

 

Morning everyone.

Happy Sunday.

I used to see one every two weeks but then stopped when I did this to my back, again, in October because the PT guy said to not go for a bit because of PT.

Maybe I need to start that again.

 

It's always L5 that's the culprit. This walking upright is WAY over rated

 

Just got home from a haircut. Now I'm going to watch some YouTube for some OnX Offroad.

 

Went to the ortho urgent care, and was sent back because 1) it's the same issue, 2) the guy on today is a hand specialist so he would just refer me to the back guy anyway, and 3) they only accept walk ins if it's a new issue.

FML

So made an appointment for Tuesday morning at 11 with the back guy.

Not sure what it does or if it would work, but for all you peeps that have had back and/or muscle issues, is a cortisone shot possible and/or worth asking about?

 

Cortisone is after other treatment has been ineffective for constant longterm issues. PT is effective if you do it not just short-term as a temporary relief but continue with it at home as a long-term preventive.

 

It's not out of the question but have to know what is causing the issue first, IE muscle/nerve/etc. Wife has had them long ago

 

Cortisone shots help ... temporarily.

 

I wouldn't remove the rubber grommets without replacing them and sealing them. I have quite a few from various kits/builds over the years.

My thing is that I want to have the roof panel support only the secondary battery. I have a Renogy DC to DC controller that does everything I need it to "behind the scenes" so to speak. There's going to be a breaker between the panel and the controller so I can select when solar charging the second battery takes priority over the alternator doing the charging. Regardless of circumstance, the controller prioritizes solar so when used together it limits alternator charging to 25% iirc.

At some point I will have the lensun panel on the hood which will support only the primary battery as an additional Fail-Safe. Ideally I'd like to have almost nothing hooked up to the main battery. I'd rather the LiFEPO4 second battery do the heavy lifting.

Seems going through the floor in the rear is the way to go....

Now I just need to figure out how to cleanly route 10awg wire from the roof rack panel to the inside of the cab with our looking straight up slob/hack job.

 

You can use a pass thru if you are brave enough to drill into the roof.

$9 Fuel Cell Electrical Bulkhead Fitting 10GA Wire Fuel Pump Assembly CFD-504 Fit for 10-12 Gauge Wires and 3/8npt Threads Openings (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-B...LpmGZJ9rzw1TmvWdqpbLXCuOtMDe3jWBoCkqYQAvD_BwE

or:

$12 Yeebline 10 AWG SAE Cable Connector, SAE Socket Chassis Wire, 60cm SAE to SAE 2 Pin Quick Disconnect with Cap Power Automotive Panel Extension Cable for Solar Panels (SAE-SAE)

https://www.amazon.com/Yeebline-Con...pMafFdlFUShuRPQI-p2SIpFqvmxoCNNEQAvD_BwE&th=1

 

Good morning CT. Happy Monday. Today looks like the best day of the week.

 

I would reeeeeeeaaaaallllllllyyyyyy rather not drill into the roof. It it's the best and cleanest option but I don't think I'm ready for that lol.

I'm not familiar with the second one. How would that even work?