ADD delete

I see lots of posts on 2nd gens deleting their ADD system but nothing on first gens. I know the diff is physically a different size but the setup is still the same right? Could I just get a manual hub tube and shaft and run it? The front driveshaft would spin but that should be ok right? Any issues spinning the driveshaft while in 2wd in terms of lubing the T-case?

 

Diff is not physically a different size

It's the tube and shaft extending out the passenger side that needs replacing; that or clamping it to remain in the "engaged" position

But that's only done when going full manual hub

There's the matter of replacing the wheel hubs as well as adding the manual hub assemblies, and finally the manual hub cv axles

 

Manual hub axles are weaker than ADD, and adding manual hubs introduces another failure point. Keep the ADD.

 

My idea was to replace the tube and shaft with a manual hub shaft so that the shaft is 1 piece and no actuator to worry about. I think the inner cv axle joint is the same between add and manual hubs so I could keep using ADD cv axles. Heres a forum post of what I'm trying to do but it's on a second gen. If this works I could see if RCV would make an upgraded inner shaft.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

 

I mean, you'd be the first that I'd know of doing it on a 1st Gen.

However, the ADD system is really without issue.

Why change it?

And yeah the inner part of the cv axle is the same; my comment was more about the swap in its entirety.

 

I worry about breaking the inner shaft, especially the stub from the inner diff to the actuator. No one offers upgrades for these inner shaft pieces. If it's 1 shaft I could probably have RCV make a custom shaft for me and fix a lot of the weak points in the front diff. With the upgraded inner 1 piece shaft and an ARB locker and RCV axles the weak point becomes the case and the tube housing.

 

The front driveshaft wont spin.
If the hubs are unlocked, the front diff wont be turning so it cant be spinning the driveshaft.. Unless the transfer case in in 4WD.
Any ways, unless you are having ADD issues, it's not worth it.

 

Curious how you're worried about breaking these the way you describe; pics of trail runs?

Just curious of course.

 

If you make the shafts stronger, the next weak link is the u-joints on the front driveshaft.

 

Ring & pinion gears would go first I imagine

 

Manual Hubs for the win!

Correct me if I’m wrong, but don’t the ADD CV Outers use a spindle nut? My Manual hub versions use a snap ring.

 

Technically, manual cv axles use a bolt as a last fail-safe

I still have these in my parts box, but will never use them



Otherwise yeah, ADD cv axles will use a 35mm or 36mm nut

 

Maybe, I've not personally seen anyone break a set on the front. But I don't follow the Toyota crowd. Most guys here (Tn) wheel Jeeps.
Plus, I don't wheel. I don't like fixing stuff.....

The 8" rear is a different story. The locker in certain situations can be hard on the ring gear.
I've seen it happen once. And the guy that owned it, "broke it". He was full send at all times.
I have to give him credit, he went place you shouldn't have been able to go.
Some times he made it, other times he broke stuff.

He ended buying a Rubicon. I haven't seen him in a while.

 

I used to live in the PNW so lots of wet slippery rocks and snow. Elbe will be on the list as soon as I get done with school. For now, I've been driving 3-4hrs to drive down to Kentucky hence keeping IFS. I hate the way Jeeps drive so I've trying to keeps IFS also see it as a fun challenge seeing how far I can get with IFS. Right now I'm just exploring ideas since the diff will be coming out for a regear so it wouldn't be hard to do.

 

Manual hubs are great because if one of your front axle breaks, you can independently disengage it and still have 3-wheel drive to get home.

 

You don't have 3wd unless you have a front and rear locker. I've had a broken axle plenty of times and was able to drive home with broken axles with ADD.

 

I'm most likely going to delete my ADD since I do have the manual hub swap on my rig. Since finding the non-add tube is proving difficult and expensive, I am going to machine a cover for the ADD mounting location. My question though is about the electronics. I have a 2003 Tacoma with the mechanical ADD. What do I do with my electronics to make sure that there isn't a blinking dash light when I put it in 4wd?

 

Give @zippsub9 a ping if you havent already, I bought a complete manual hub conversion thru him, non add tube and all

 

I already have the manual hub conversion completed. Mostly I'm just trying to figure out what if anything I need to do electrically to have no issues with the dash lighting up!

 

Sorry, should have been clearer, he provided me the manual tube and shaft needed to delete the add tube, he may be able to provide you one as well

As far as wiring post up what you find! I'm in need of the same info myself. my current understanding is that the non add system uses a relay instead of a 4wd ecu, as far as the associated wiring and all I have no idea yet.

did you start w a J shift transfer case?