Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

I'm just trying to see how they installed it?
Based on your pics, it seems the pin is grinded off or punched flat with the wheel

 

Here's the end of the new crank, you can see how far off the reluctor alignment pin was. It seems like they just torqued the heck out of it and pushed the pin "somewhere"?

 

yes it should go there, but didn't. Trying to find out more details.

 

OP - just sending positive vibes your way. The thought of doing what you are doing makes my blood pressure skyrocket.

 

Hey, we might get the engine back in the truck today Maybe not running (or attempting), but at least largely hooked up. The main thing I still worry about is if there's a chance we got the timing chain alignment wrong, but we checked it a bunch of times. Hope we're right.

There's enough that we found in pulling it back out and fixing issues that it's at least plausible that we fixed it. That crank reluctor being wrong was probably enough to make bad things happen.

 

This probably was the root cause.

 

yeah it does. But now it actually fits in the alignment hole in the crank

 

I bet it was off just enough

 

Okay, the engine is sitting on the mounts, hooking everything up. Definitely got new oil and filter, because you know it's a good idea to change an oil filter

 

Got it running, but it's setting a bunch of codes. I think we didn't hook up a harness or some such. Drives fine in limp mode. Is it possible that we need to reprogram ECM? We have a spare, threw it in to test the theory and it wouldn't run at all with the spare ECM (that we *thought* we programmed):

 

Those are (circled) transmission code. Similar when you had issues with tranny harness.

 

Have you tried to clear codes?
P0338 - crankshaft circuit short to batter or open.

 

tried to clear multiple times. Wondering if a pin finally broke on the tranny plug. Didn't have to remove that this time, found a way around it, but maybe moving things around broke it. Does PO338 seem to say crank position sensor not attached?

 

I would have rage quit this mess about 12 times by now if it were mine lol.

I have nothing helpful to add OP, sorry.

 

Wonder if putting a few miles on it will help let the PC relearn the truck and clear a few of these codes..

 

Toyota sells pins. So you can de-pin the connector and replace if this is the case.
As far as p0338. Check resistance between the sensors connector and ecm connector (like you did before).
Which reluctor wheel did you install? Which sensor? See post 509. You had the same code.

 

We're checking the crank sensor. If the reluctor position "moved" so far, how long would it take the computer to re-learn that the crank position is no longer insane? The valves seem to be changing timing during startup and after, but we still don't seem to have figured the last glitches out. The motor runs fine in general, but is in limp mode. Maybe it'll run right before I'm dead of old age.

 

did you resolve tranny codes? Those do put into the limp mode.
Do you see RPMs alive on the dash and the scanner? If sensor/reluctor are "bad", rpms could be displayed incorrectly. But you say the engine run fine.
In your scanner should be a function to reset learning values under Engine Control unit. There are VVT learning values for Intake/Exhaust.

 

Will see if there's a re-learn option after I charge the Autel again and do some firmware updates that have just been released for it now.

 

Found out he was using the old cheap piece-of-junk scanner, here's what the Autel found, waaaaayyy less badness:







So I guess we just track down the crank sensor issue to start then worry about the one remaining code (for now)