Questions after shock replacement...

I replaced all of my shocks with Bilstein 4600s. I reused the stock springs as well. Overall the job isn't hard but it does pose some potential issues on older trucks with rust. At least it did for me.

1) How do I know that the upper nut is tight enough on the shocks?
- I did not count the threads but I do have a discrepancy from side to side at the moment. I could not use a torque wrench here and I did not have a a crowfoot handy. I have some pictures below.

2) How crucial is the spring orientation relative to the vehicle itself?
- The lowest portion of the spring on either side is towards the rear but I am not sure if it is supposed to be turned a certain way. See pics below.

3) Will I need an alignment?
- I did not touch the lower control arm bolts with the camber adjustment. The only bolts I removed were the two lower ball joints ones, sway bar end links and disconnected the tie rod ends. I did not touch any adjustments on the tie rod ends.

4) If I do get an alignment, how do I know my truck is ready for it?
- More specifically, should I see if my lower control arm bolts will loose up prior to going to the dealer for an alignment. I don't seem to have any play in the front wheels when moving side to side or up and down.

5) I ended up breaking a speed sensor on the drivers side as the upper mount was so rusted that I had a hard time removing it. Shall I go with an aftermarket one on

$17 89543-04020 ABS Sensor Compatible with Toyota Tacoma(05-20), 4Runner(03-20), FJ Cruiser(07-14), Land Cruiser(08-20), Lexus GX460 (10-20), GX470(03-09), LX570 OEM Replacement ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

Amazon?

 

When the top bushing squishes to about the same diameter as the washer, it’s tight enough. Maybe a bit more but not less.

 

Hey did u reuse the OEM coils with that 4600 or are they new ones too? I'm trying to see if I can run 4600 with 884 coils

 

OEM coils.

 

Read the post, second sentence…

 

I would shy away from aftermarket sensors in general on these trucks. They are hit-or-miss at best, especially for ABS/drivetrain. At a minimum, check RockAuto for the "better" aftermarket stuff, and be aware that Amazon is awash with counterfeit OEM parts.

 

Thanks. I just took a look at Rock Auto. I can't believe there are so many aftermarket options available. Anywhere from $20 to $110.

 

The ones marked with a heart on RockAuto are usually a good bet.

 

I ended up ordering a Beck Arnley one from Rock Auto. It wasn't the cheapest or most expensive one. I guess we will see what happens when I install it.

I have a question regarding the front shock replacement itself.

I had a heck of a time getting the struts to come out. The strut mounts were apparently rusted to the underside mount on the frame. I ended up reusing them as I didn't have new ones to replace them with nor did I think I needed to. After driving the car around I heard a slight thumping noise coming from the front of the truck. Turns out I could still spin the top washer on the front drivers side strut just by reaching in under the fender with truck still on the ground. I could not do this on the passenger side one. I jacked the truck up and tightened the upper nut down on the shock. After a few turns the nut seemed to almost come to a hard stop. I assume this is the upper washer on the shock contacting the underside of the shock mount. I didn't try to tighten any further.

The noise seemed to go away but could I have an issue with the mounts? How do I know if I need to replace them? The rubber looked decent but obviously the surface which contacts the mount on the frame has surface rust on it.

 

Are you referring to the "tophats" on top of the shock? Three mount bolts that attach to the shock tower on the frame, and the central nut that holds the shock itself?

Those definitely wear (the rubber bushings), and it's possible to put the rubber bushings and metal washers in the wrong order whether reusing old or installing new. I personally always use new because I live in Salt Hell and it isn't worth fighting. KYB makes good replacements.

Those top hats also have a torque spec that ensures the correct preload on the rubber bushings - "good enough" usually is, but not always.

 

Yes, the tophats with the three 14mm bolts. Those were rusted to the underside of the frame. There is one washer under those tophats and I installed like the original ones. That is to say I installed the washer with the depression in the center like a dish. I don’t think I messed that up.

 

From bottom to top like the layers of a cake, above the body of the top hat, there should be a metal washer, a rubber bushing, the frame knuckle, another bushing, another metal washer, and finally the nut.

Edit: here's a thread for a 3rd gen but they're the same deal on the 2nd gen:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/shock-top-hat-issue-does-this-look-right.654569/

 

Thanks. I tool a look at that thread. That's what I have on the topside or visible side as referenced in my pictures above. Doesn't really discuss assembly of the strut itself. On the top, the visible side, there is a bushing, washer (curved down like an upside down dish) and a nut. I was referring to the single washer that goes on top of the shock before sliding the tophat over the shaft. From what I can see, the bushing on the underside of the tophat prevents metal on metal contact between itself and the spring but I don't believe there is anything between the washer on the shaft and the underside of the tophat. My front shocks only came with one bushing.

 

Do I need an alignment after new shocks?

All other parts are original OEM. If so, should I do it before or after I get tires. I will need some within the next month or so.

 

Anytime front components are replaced you should get an alignment.

 

Okay. Wanted to double check since I did not touch any upper or lower control arm bolts so I wasn’t sure.

Also, am I able to check if shops will have any issues with alignment? I don’t notice any play in the front end components when checking. I also heard that control arm bolts could be frozen. Do I need to double check anything before I head into a dealership for an alignment? I don’t wanna be put into position where I have to have parts replaced at the dealer as I replaced the shocks myself.

 

Hit the LCA bolts with your penetrating oil of choice (PB Blaster, etc) once or twice a day every day. That's your best "safe" bet unless you want to try to loosen them yourself before you take it in, to see if they'll move. If they won't move, you can choose to wrestle them off yourself and replace them, as you are going to get an alignment anyway, but if they are well and truly seized you may not want to fuck with them at all, because if you chew them up before you pay someone to do it, it will cost you more.

Something that may be doable depending on your shop is to simply order replacement hardware, take it with you, and tell them if it's seized to go ahead and skip the nonsense of air gun/breaker bar/torch/swearing (racking up billable hours), skip right to cutting the old ones off, and replace with the new ones. They might be able to just get it done right then without having to re-book you and order parts. I live in Salt Hell and any time the LCAs have to come off, I skip right to the Sawzall and new hardware, unless it's been less than a year.

The hardware (even from Mr. Toyota) is not expensive, and if you don't need them, keep them on hand - you will eventually.

 

Lower control arm cam-adjuster bolts could be frozen, yes, depending on total mileage & amount of road salt/rust annually in your region.

If you want to loosen them to check whether they move freely before you take it to a dealer, be sure to use a paint pen to mark all 8 bolt/cam locations (4 on each LCA) before you loosen anything. That way, you can at least restore the cams to the pretty-close, if not exact alignment. The marks may also help technicians find a suitable starting point for re-aligning.

Also what previous post said about them possibly being totally frozen/rusted solid is possible, in which case don't keep slapping on them with a torque wrench & rounding off bolts, just go straight to plan B which is to buy & provide an entire new set of hardware so that the alignment shop can cut the old ones out & reinstall new with the least-possible extra labor.

 

That may also be the case but certain parts are also marked by RA.

 

FWIW I know you guys were discussing ABS sensors earlier, I ended up ordering these bad boys from Amazon after I broke a sensor doing a wheel bearing, figured it was worth the gamble for $7 a piece vs 212 and they're an easy change and wont leave you stranded or anything if they fail. Turned off my light and all seems good, I'll try and update this if it doesn't last long.

$29 NewYall Set of 4 Front and Rear Left Driver and Right Passenger Side ABS Wheel Speed Sensor for Lexus GX460 GX470 LX570 Toyota 4Runner FJ Cruiser Land Cruiser Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YKNS25K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details