Ford 9”,gen1 tacoma

Witch locker? Harrop? Eaton? Detroit?

 

Friday thread

 

I have an ARB in my 9” on my 1st Gen. I’d say selectable such as the Harrop for multi-use vehicle seeing on road and off.

Detroit or spool for trailered / dedicated off-road trail rig.

 

Thanks, guys! How about spline count, 31 or 35? Also housing recommended?

 

31 should be fine, but depends on your budget. Semi float or full float will make a huge difference in price. There’s a few options for fabricated housings from Ruff Stuff, Currie, and Trail Gear.

If you go semi float you can get axle shafts with the proper bearing races from Dutchman axle company. Trail gear uses unit bearings on its full float housings. I went with a full float kit from solid axle industries and Currie 35 spline axles that uses Dana 60 hubs to make a “F69” setup:

https://solidaxle.com/products/6-on-5-5-rear-end-kit-for-d60

Any decently priced option that’s designed for off-road and is the right width should work.

Stock width would be 60” wms to wms (wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface) ie brake rotor surface if you’re running traditional disk setup or outside of the drum for drum brakes.

For long travel trucks like this one, there’s an Econoline axle that will be perfect with a 3.5” width long travel kit.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jds-02-tacoma-build.126596/

 

Thanks Dalandser! Lot of info, trying to match or slightly narrower than a Lt. front. Should I worry about the 7.5 ? Will be used mostly for hunting in rough areas. Also want a smooth ride on the less challenging roads. Thanks, Steve

 

I really like the 4 link system. Cr250 did a great job! I can fab with metal, that must give a great ride! I’m a old Mx racer, would love to do some ripping

 

If you want a custom built Ford 9" look at Quick Performance . I had a custom built Ford 9" built for my 72 Camaro

Axle Housing has chromemolly tubes with big bearing ends . Also the housing was gusseted and braced . The center chunk housing is aluminum with a billet pinion support . Running a 35 spline billet full spool and custom 35 spline axles with 1/2 wheel studs

This axle will support 1500hp and it was just under $4k

 

Lots of guys run the 7.5 with 33-35 inch tires but it may not be good for anything bigger than that. Most common failure is an axle or stub shaft going between the diff and the axle tube going between the passenger side CV and the diff. Check out this channel for a lot of easy to follow videos on all kinds of things that relate to our trucks (even though it’s a 4runner channel mostly, the front suspension and many parts of the rear axle such as bearings, seals, and drum brakes are mostly the same).

You can see the stub shaft and where it is and how to remove it in this video.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w_gPiDvh9v4

This is another 4runner channel that has a lot of good maintenance and install videos

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OU9LIpPREkE&t=1s

 

Give us more details. Do you already have a housing, leaf sprung or linked, how much travel, engine/power, 4x4 or 2-wheel drive, intended use of truck and where you located?

 

Thanks again guys! I live in Flagstaff Az. Lots of rocks! And forest service roads. (Cinder) Just bought the truck, 2004 4 door 4wd. 8.4” open diff. (All stock) I like the idea of trailing arms w/ Coilovers (rear) Lt. front (3.4 v6 auto.) use on some very rocky 2 track roads and some high speed dirt/cinder roads. Will haul on a gooseneck for some out of state hunts, needs to be street legal, no smog area in northern Az. Just needs tail lights & horn & mirrors thanks again!

 

Forgot, will use 33” tires so I can run chains on all 4

 

For what you described. Stay away from a spool. For the rear do a Detroit/Yukon Grizzly for simplicity and less $$$, If you want better on street drivability do a selectable locker. If you plan to use in the snow especially on the road I would lean towards the selectable. The front leave open or do a selectable locker.

 

@Jon64l does a lot of that kind of terrain in AZ with the 8.4 and a Harrop in his 1st Gen.

A RuffStuff 3 link kit would be a cost effective link kit. Here’s another LT build but using the RS 3 link. If going to a link setup, swapping in a 9” would be the time to do it so you’re doing less cutting and welding brackets - a pain in the rear in my experience.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/croth-budget-build-thread.372720/

 

Busted some teeth. Bent some axle shafts. 9" selectable locker would be cool but not in the cards.

 

Thanks again guys, appreciate the help!