Sterling_vH111's 1997 T4Runner "Build" Thread — now with 300k miles!

Unless going LT, I wouldn't replace the links with anything fancy. The geometry will be the same and will limit performance regardless of uniballs replacing the bushings. This is the only upgrade I'd spend bookoo bucks on in the rear of these:

https://optoffroad.com/products/96-02-4runner-rear-lt-three-link-kit-lt3?variant=43661255082242

I bought these:

https://eliteracefab.com/products/s...8esGquNIC1t9gYmym7W0R_HAHuW8XYIBoCKGAQAvD_BwE

and

$40 Whiteline W83374 Rear Panhard Rod Bushing, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070I8MPU?ie=UTF8

$95 Whiteline W63379 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing by Whiteline

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B3P1ZDQ?ie=UTF8

$28 Energy Suspension 9.5156R 3/4" Greasable Sway Bar Set , Red

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN5FQO?ie=UTF8

https://www.srqfabrications.com/pro...8U_jIlTP6Ya4ZhMDjPcXBrBlyU4D2yLxoC-7UQAvD_BwE

https://www.srqfabrications.com/col...6-00-3rd-gen-4runner-rear-extended-brake-line

when I did my rearend.

Since it's my wife's dd, it happened in slow stages so I got to feel how every upgrade improved things.

I had moog springs, the sway bar ends, SPC lowers, and King 2.5 smoothies w/ adjusters first. It helped, but there was a lot of play in the rear of the truck.

I added some OME 906 springs and they helped a lot over the Moogs for sagging.

The past month or so I did the upper bushings and panhard bushings and it is much better, now it's a matter of hunting down squeaks / rattles from the cab now that the truck handles well.

This is what I'm thinknig will address a lot of that:

https://youtu.be/saXfvP0bkE4

If not going boxed lowers, I'd go OEM if keeping the truck for a long time or just Moog / best reviewed aftermarket and OEM lbj's if not. Most of my OEM parts I order online on El Monte Longo Toyota's site and they're usually ready to pickup in 24-36 hours.

Oh yeah, when working on the rear, I found it's easiest just to remove the springs and sway bar to swap out upper, lower, and panhard links. Having a big ratchet strap helps too. Some guys have better luck with the links going in and out easily, but I wasted a bunch of time until I just removed the end links and springs so I could cycle the axle.

If you're around Downey ever on the weekend you could take it for a test drive to see how all these mods feel. I've got some rain gutters and railroad x'ings that work the suspension on the roads around here.

 

Not much else new.
Hit 333,000k on the odo this week.
Regular 5k mile oil changes, 10k tire roatations, and a vacuum + wipe down of the interior.


So far the Cooper Discover All seasons have worn about 3.5/32 (12 to about 8.5/32) in about 30k miles on them in the last year.
I’m impressed with their wet traction, dry Corning hold up, and some snow traction.
Great all round tire that’s on track to last well past the 65,000 mile warranty.

 

Also picked up a free pair of Fox 9” stroke 2.0’s for 2005+ Tacomas and 4Runners — gonna make them work for my 3rd gen once I get the cash to put some longer coil springs in the rear.
They’ll probably be 1/4” too long, but I can space the bump down and I should gain a few inches of droop, to wherever the springs become loose.

 

Do an outboard shock relocation - I’ve seen weld on brackets for those pin top bushing shocks

Here’s some. Wouldn’t be hard to make your own.

https://www.srqfabrications.com/pro...I89EXlEWSXxokfXZrQaauQK2tfCY7-EAaAvJtEALw_wcB

$63 AUTOVIC Rear Outboard Shock Mount Repair Kit for Toyota 4Runner 1996-2002 Anodized 35 Steel Base Sport Repair Brackets Car Shock Absorber Suspension Bracket Struts Mount

https://www.amazon.com/AUTOVIC-Outb...=&hvlocphy=9031006&hvtargid=pla-2420757806397

 

I’m considering it. Obviously most newer vehicles come like this, and it makes sense for sway reasons.
Probably less motion ratio per same stroke shock.
You run something like that without doing a full hoop and like 10-12” shock?

 

I bought this a few years ago (for like $320 on BF) and some ADS 10” 2” shocks - just haven’t had the motivation with how well the rear does and have a bunch of other things to do with other stuff. I am interested in getting less body roll and think I might try the front sway bar back before I relocate the rears.

https://www.arcworxs.com/products/p/10in-outboard-shock-mount