Road Noise - Bad Wheel Bearings? - (2010 Tacoma, 2WD)

My first post.....(new to Tacoma World)

I recently purchased a 2010 Tacoma (2WD, ~ 150,000 miles). I hear a humming, whining noise from what I believe to be the front of the truck when going down the road, most obvious when at highway speeds. A rapid left or right turn of the wheel also changes the noise. I first thought it was bad tires coming from the worn, light truck tires, that came with the truck - (unfortunately this was not the issue, the noise is still there after purchasing new Michelin radials). I am currently thinking it is bad wheel bearings, but I do not know? I jacked up the front end and found almost zero top/bottom play when checking the bearings, and a small amount of noise when I hand spin the tire. Question? Could this irritating humming, whining noise be a sign of bad wheel bearings? How do I know if the bearings are bad? I am mostly certain the noise is coming from the front end, however, I cannot determine if it is coming from left or right side of truck. Any suggestions on what would cause this noise? If I do change out the wheel bearings I plan to do one side, thereby allowing me to confirm which one was bad. Any suggestion on best place to buy replacement parts? My quick online research shows Toyota parts are almost double the price of what is available at local auto parts store. Also, any suggestions on replacement rotors? Any comments and/or suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you. GBL

 

Sometimes all you get is the sound until the bearings are wore out pretty good. You can jack it up and try to rock the wheel but there's a good change you won't see (or hear) any play. On mine I had no symptoms aside from a distinct hum noise and there wasn't a noticeable change in it going around a bend in the road.

 

From my experience with multiple cars/trucks good quality wheel bearings (such as OEM/koyo/NSK etc) will make a hum and slowly increase noise for quite a while, like multiple months/multiple thousands of miles before any other signs. If you get to the point of axial play you're definitely into the dangerous/replace ASAP zone. Often times you can diagnose front vs back once the sound is loud enough and left vs right with gentle sweeping turns (outboard side gets more force, noise increases, inboard side gets unweighted during turn and noise decreases or goes away). I've had mixed results with that though especially early on if the noise is faint, it's much more clear once it gets really loud lol.

You could probably wait longer if you'd like but honestly at 150k and 15 years old I would just order the assembled pairs from the member on here and do both front ones and be done with it for a long time. That's what I and a lot of people on here do and they're about as easy as it gets for a wheel bearing job.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-oe-nsk.537080/

My AT tires def hum a bit too and increase with each turn, but its very uniform if that makes any sense. Wheel bearings will eventually sound a little more grindy/scrapey than hum as they continue to wear out.

 

AI Analysis:

You're on the right track thinking this could be a wheel bearing issue, especially since:

• The noise changes with vehicle speed (humming/whining that increases with speed is common for bearings).
  
  
• It changes or lessens with a rapid left/right turn—classic symptom of a worn wheel bearing, as weight shifts side-to-side.
  

Here’s a structured breakdown of your situation and next steps:

Diagnosing the Noise: Wheel Bearings vs. Other Causes
✅ Common Symptoms of Bad Wheel Bearings:

• Whining/humming/growling noise that increases with speed.
  
  
• Noise changes when turning (e.g., gets louder turning left = possibly right bearing bad, and vice versa).
  
  
• Slight vibration in the steering wheel or floorboard.
  
  
• No play in the hub does not rule out a bad bearing—modern sealed bearings can be noisy before they develop any noticeable play.
  

❌ Other Possible Causes (less likely):

• Tires – You've replaced them, so likely ruled out.
  
  
• CV joints – More of a clicking when turning.
  
  
• Differential or driveline noise – You're 2WD, so no front diff.
  
  
• Brake issues – Could cause drag or noise but unlikely to hum/whine at speed.
  

Tests to Confirm a Bad Bearing:

1. Noise Change When Turning Test:
   
   • Hard left at speed = weight shifts to the right.
     
     
   • Hard right = weight shifts to the left.
     
     
   • If the noise gets louder turning left, likely the right front bearing is bad, and vice versa.
     
2. Spin Test (while jacked up):
   
   • Spin each front wheel by hand and listen for grinding or roughness.
     
     
   • Use a mechanic’s stethoscope (or long screwdriver) against the knuckle while spinning—listen at the handle end.
     
3. Road Test:
   
   • Drive on a smooth road and gently weave left/right. If noise changes, it’s almost always a wheel bearing.
     

Fixing It – Replacing Wheel Bearings
️ Tacoma 2WD 2010 Specific Notes:

• Bearings are pressed into the hub assembly, not bolt-on.
  
  
• You can either:
  
  • Buy a complete hub and bearing assembly (easier install).
    
    
  • Or press out and replace just the bearing (requires a press, harder and more error-prone).
    

Where to Buy Quality Parts:

• OEM Toyota parts are top quality but expensive.
  
  
• Good aftermarket options:
  
  • Timken – top-tier aftermarket bearing.
    
    
  • SKF, Moog, NSK – also solid.
    
• Avoid the cheapest no-name eBay or Amazon parts.
  

For parts:

• RockAuto.com – Great selection, usually cheaper than local stores.
  
  
• PartsGeek.com
  
  
• Toyota Parts Deal – for OEM online, sometimes discounted.
  

Replace One Side or Both?

• If you’re sure it’s one side (via testing), you can do just that one.
  But with 150k miles, both may be close to the same wear level.
  

Rotor Recommendations (if replacing at same time):

• OEM-style rotors: Aisin, Centric Premium, or Raybestos.
  
  
• Avoid drilled/slotted rotors unless you need them for performance—they can be noisier and wear faster.
  
  
• Replace rotors only if needed (warped, grooved, or worn below minimum thickness).
  

Final Suggestion:
Before replacing anything, try this:

• Get to highway speed on an open road.
  
  
• Make a series of wide, quick lane changes (left then right).
  
  
• Listen closely—which turn makes the noise louder?
  That will likely tell you which bearing is failing.
  

 

Good bearings do not make any noise.

 

Yep, at 150K, it is sound practice to replace the front wheel bearings as preventive maintenance.

Once the brake pads are removed from the rotor, you’ll be better able to detect play. You can also check the tie rods for play at this point.

 

To All - What great information, thank you to all! I appreciate the outstanding responses! I am hopeful to replace these bearings in the next few days. Again, Thank you, much appreciated!!! GBL

 

The front bearings, or the rears, aren't a DIY job for 99% of DIYers. If you buy a hub and bearing assembly then it's not much more work than brakes and an easy DIY job if you can do brakes. The issue is the generic assemblies typically use crap bearings which typically only last a fraction as long as the OE bearings do.

 

Linked above is the source where 90+% of people on here get the front bearing assemblies if they don't want to press themselves. Very reputable with OEM bearings for a great price.

 

Arguably the most important part is the bearing itself—look for a brand that uses KOYO bearings, as they’re some of the best in the industry. The job is pretty straightforward, especially on a 2WD. I’ve done it in under 30 minutes before. Honestly, it takes more time to safely jack up the truck and remove the wheels and brakes than it does to actually swap out the hub.

 

DO NOT jump the gun and buy new bearings yet. I had grinding sounds just like yours in my 07 4Runner with 145K miles. .. .bought bearings and started replacing. . . It turned out to be a bad caliper that was not releasing.

I took out a PERFECT condition OEM Japanese bearings for no reason.

You should clean your wheels very nicely. . .get a $15 infrared temp gun. Go out for a hard 30 mile driving with a lot of stopping. Pull over and temp the rotors and you will probably see one will be much hotter than the other. One may get dirtier than the other from more brake dust, but that takes a little while. You can also put the front on Jack stands and start the truck and get a good spin on them and see if one spins easier than the other. Both of my 4Runner calipers were sticking , one replaced at around 125k another around 140K. The one bearing I replaced I still have as a spare, it is perfect shape and silent. Hope this helps.

 

I want to thank the OP for the post, and all those that contributed helpful info. Based on this post I had my front wheel bearings replaced today and that resolved a huge noise issue that's been plaguing me for a few thousand miles. (I was over 235K on the originals.)

 

how much more difficulty level is involved for the 4wd front bearing replacement procedure

do the Toyota branded assemblies use the KOYO bearings?

i look after an '11 single cab 4wd with 114k with falken WP tires that are due for replacing after a short 62k miles
it has been making growling noise at freeway speeds for nearly 20k miles or a bit more
hard to believe the bearing are worn and shot so quickly but i suppose it possible but IDK

i put new rotors on there a couple years ago
maybe it is the calipers sticking?
but i am not a mechanic...just a hack. so IDK