Exhaust Reroute

I saw that too, and i do see why it might seem kinda dodgey, but i don't think it's one of those 'never do' things. I think you've just got to be sure the pipe's got ample space during full and violent suspension travel while also considering how much the pipe can move itself (for better or worse), and there's a good amount of space right there (my pic makes it look a bit tight, but i'll show you tomorrow). If you think about it the other way, what's more dangerous: the leaf spring ever touching the tailpipe, or the tailpipe ever touching a rock? I think the latter's way more likely, and WAY more damaging.

 

That makes sense. Appreciate the feedback!!

 

Here's my reroute. I heated, bent, then cut the pipe hanger rod to shorten its reach, but after reassembling the leaf, i found the pipe still hung a little too close, so i flipped the hanger -- pipe rod 'standing' on the hanger instead of hanging, and it came out just right.



I pushed chunks of high-temp hose behind the rubber to keep it from walking off the opposite rod(s). Although now, with some miles on it, it looks like it needs some adjustment -- starting to creep off the bottom a bit.



Once it was all in place, i cut the pipe to well within the cavity. It wasn't actually touching the shell, but looked like it could, given the chance.



(Please ignore all the other obvious work neglected! Transaxle leak!)

 

Looks good man! It got done and does the job so that’s all that matters.

I ended up just getting it cut and adding a little chrome tip. Satisfied

 

You may wanna look into a LSPV relocation plate (trail gears offering), as I can see you don't have one. Also, if the previous owner overlooked that when they installed those DIY lift shackles, you should check for an extended rear brake line as well- if it's still the stock rubber ones, you need to get a longer one. And if you still have the original rubber brake likes in the front as well, just replace them as well...

 

Easy and DONE. I like it. Bet it's a lot quieter now!

 

Andy, i did my brakeline but hadn't heard of or considered this LSPV stuff, but i can't think of what it would do...?

 

Sure is! Peace of mind when driving now lol

 

That arm connecting the actual LSPV up near the frame rail to the axle is the "load sensing" part of the valve. The closer the axle gets to the frame rails (from weight in the bed, aka load) the valve becomes more open, allowing more brake fluid / increased rear brake pressure to the rear wheel cylinders. The opposite is true the further away the axle gets from the frame rails. If you lift the truck without relocating the bottom attachment point of the sensing arm, you're effectively decreasing how much the rear brakes are helping stop the truck.

 

Brilliant. Thanks for the clear explanation. So the mod simply elevates its location relative to the axle, essentially maintaining its stock distance from the frame.

 

Bingo.

BPV Bracket-19 this is another option that has variable lift amounts

 

I like this 2nd one (plus the price, plus his explanation), but i kinda want to know, how would one know if the thing was at the right height or not? Would it make a noticeable difference, and how would you test it? I never measured my truck's stock height prior to minimal lift (just wanted the softer ride), which claimed "about 1.5 inch", so i can't be sure...

 

The LSVP valve on trucks of this age is usually not working at all, regardless of the position of the rod. Rear brakes never seem to need replaced..
If you want to know they are working, get the adjustable valve and remove the LSVP. You can dial the rears in and they work regardless of load, like they should.
Brett's average build thread

EDIT, link to valve since original is not working. You WILL NEED the Toyota adapter fittings, no idea where to source those.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/630...1u4aWMIyqPFduoMKftj_IXlvY0TgRPxRoCv8cQAvD_BwE

 

I don't really think that's true as a blanket statement, and if it were, it's far easier to just replace the LVSP. Maybe pricy for the OEM part, but I've seen non-oem parts for reasonable prices. Sure beats all the work required in your post.

 

I'm not gonna argue, just an alternative to have them actually work like they should.
By all means replace the LSVP and add the bracket that isn't tall enough. The added benefit of this is that the rear shoes will never ever have to be replaced.
Cheaper yet to just leave it as is, the result will be the same.

 

Well this is all a bit annoying. Brakes are my least favorite thing to work on, and it doesn't sound like there's a way to test equilibrium anyway, apart from snusnu's method of slamming them on at speed to make sure the fronts lock before the rear (very clever, btw). On top of that, my truck suffers the elusive Tacoma brake-shutter, and it's been suggested on here that the cause is actually a REAR brake issue, not warped rotors, so maybe i should just surrender to the bypass...