DJM 3/4 install Qs

Just received my lower balljoints from Japan and about to get them pressed in and get the arms installed. Looking to see if anyone had issues with the lca bolts and if they are still using the original alignment cams as well.

Also will be replacing struts with bilstein 4600 and monroe strut mounts, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar bushing and endlinks.

Looking for any recommendations during this install on my 2nd gen.

 

I'm running my stock LCA bolts and cams no problem, but it's a Socal truck with 62K on it so they had no rust or gunk on them.

 

Would I be able to get away with no notch?

 

I’m guessing you are referring to 5 lugs?
If so there should be all the info you can use in these treads below!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5lug-coilovers.541417/

More 2nd gen info and probably the best 2nd gen info
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/comprehensive-5-lug-2nd-gen-lowering-info.247184/

This one has a lot of 1st gen. info. & 2nd
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lowered-b-s-thread.141305/

 

Correct, 5 lugs. Appreciate you. Took a chance in creating a new thread mainly cuz last post was back in January. Waiting for the rest and of the parts to come in then will be installing. Do you think ill be able to get away with a 4” block w/o notching? Will have it professionally welded after installing everything else.

 

Sure just use a kidney belt and a mouthpiece.

Setting at a breakfast restaurant with my wife two gentlemen walked in to be seated. One turned around and I read his T-shirt that said; The Sky’s Not The Limit, The Ground Is Skydive.
So in other words it’s the sudden stop that kills you!

But at least cut off the 4 ribbits that hold the bump stop to the frame. That will at least give you almost an extra 1/2”.
After cutting / grinding the heads off you will need a pneumatic air hammer to push out the rest of the rabbits.
It’s a bitch of a job.
The gentleman who completely welded in my notches said the labor cost is half if I removed the stops before bringing the truck to him.

Good luck!

 

Thank you, do you have a pic of the before pic and “rabbits”? Do you know how much space is there with the 4” block and bump stop removed?

 

You could but the ride is going to suck. Just measure from the top of you axle to the frame currently and that'll tell you how much closer it'll be to the frame after putting on the blocks. You would definitely need to remove the stock bump stop and put in a low profile one but even then be prepared to hit it a lot unless you have glass smooth roads in your area.

 

Are you still using the same alignment bolts? How hard was it to remove the lca?

 

Yep, still using the alignment bolts. As for removal of the control arms, it was easy, but again I reiterate that I was doing this on a Socal truck that only had 45K miles on it at the time so no rust and very little wear. Also absolutely read the instructions, un-like me. It tells you not to completely take the whole suspension out at once but to do it in stages. I didn't look at the instructions until I had already removed everything.

 

Op,
Do us all a favor just start reading the treads I sent links to..

 

Completed 4” block install, didnt bother with trying to remove the bump stop mount. Gonna have c notch welded in a few days. Got atleast an inch of travel with couple hundred lbs in the bed.

 

Once you have the notch put in keep an eye on the brake line mounts on the driver's side. You'll need to bend them slightly so they don't start cutting into the actually lines.

Also, I don't see your pinion angle shims. Did you not put them in?

 

my kit did not come with the shims is that why I have the drive shaft pushed into the transmission?

 

Oh wow, that's pushed in a lot more than mine is. Here's what mine looks like currently with 4x4 leaf springs and 2" blocks. But even with 3" blocks and the springs it was never pushed as much as yours. I'd check that your leaf springs are up in the correct position. If it is then you may just need to trim a little bit for clearance.

 

Now I don’t know crap about shims vs no shims but the one time I used shims I got a vibration.

Rear dropped with 6 lug stiffer springs 1 1/4” to 1.5” of drop and anywhere from a machined 1 3/4” to 2 1/4” blocks.
I always use extruded aluminum blocks then have them powder coated inside and out & I’ll use 2.5” x 5” piece of 1/4 to 3/8” flat plate drill it for the bolt then have it powder coated. When I bolt the flat plate to the spring I will use a little grease between the plate and spring. But I don’t live in the rust belt.
So between adjustable front coil-overs and a 1/4 to 3/8” longer block on the passenger side I can usually get rid of the Taco lean. I have two reg. cab 5 lugs with the same suspension parts but for some reason the block lengths are different from truck to truck.

 

Just noticed your cup and transmission is different. Is yours 5 spd?

 

Yeah, I have a 5-speed so that may be the difference in length.

Also just noticed in your first picture showing the blocks installed that it looks like I can see light between the top of the block and the axle mount. Is the block properly seated with the alignment pin set into the mount?

 

The shims are supposedly to help with the pinion angles once it's lowered. No driveline vibrations on mine using them, but obviously it can vary from vehicle to vehicle.

I took care of the taco lean from the front. I machined a 1/2" spacer for the top of my coil over out of a plate of aluminum. Initially I just cranked up the preload but that gave me different spring rates between the two sides and that wasn't going to fly.

 

Yup, pins lined up perfectly. The pic was taken prior to tightening up the bolts and torquing it down.