Transmission Fluid Change

I'm sure no other topic has become more of a dead horse but I'll throw it out there anyway.

Let me first admit that I'm a boomer who has owned and driven Toyota's since the late 70's when my first one was a 78 Corolla. I'm now on my third Tacoma, a 2010 model with just over 227,000 miles on it and my wife is driving a 2016 Camry with just over 123,000 on it. Knock on wood, never had one die on me. And that includes an old 85 pickup (I sure miss those flip out side windows), 98 Tacoma that I sold for $1500 more than the asking price, my current 2010 Tacoma, a 98 Camry, 2006 Camry, and the wife's current 2016 Camry.

Now I know Toyota claims the transmission fluid in the wife's Camry is good for life of the engine, and I've only done a single drain and replace of the transmission fluid on both her Camry and my Tacoma. Since I can't remember when I did the last pan drain and replace on the Tacoma, I thought I might do another. However, when I look at the fluid on the dipstick, it's as clear as it was when I replaced it, whenever that was. I'm leaning towards somewhere between what Toyota recommends and what old boomers like me learned from our dads and that is to leave it alone. And that goes back to when transmission fluid was not as good as today's synthetics.

 

My PERSONAL view is you can't tell the condition of ANY fluid just by what it looks like. All you can tell is how "clean" it is, which has nothing to do with lubricity, condition/state of additives, etc.

I would do a couple of changes over a span of 2 or 3 drain/fills (I wouldn't do a flush) over that span of, lets say 1000 miles or so, and call it a day (for now). A lot of when from that point would vary a LOT based on what type of driving you do, if you tow, etc.

I don't believe in "lifetime" fluids of any type, but also don't believe you necessarily need to change something every XXX miles unless specified by the manufacturer - especially with modern/synthetic fluids.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-get-it-out-of-your-transmission-now.331521/

 

Color does not indicate condition, although it would indicate contamination.

Typically the first drain (whether at 10k or 100k) is going to be darker because it contains particulate from the clutch packs that wore off during break in.

I did my first drain/fill at 10K then next at 30k, 50k, 70k.. Every drain after 10K was the bright cherry red color of new fluid.

That being said, the fluid contains additives that are designed to protect the transmission components. This wears out with use and heat.

This is why I favor the method of drain/fill every 20k or so because it replenishes the additive package that protects the trans.

 

Welcome to TW...On the Tacoma the fluid looks good on the Dipstick?

 

Many Toyota/Lexus owners don't realize their maintenance schedule states to replace the ATF every 60K under special operating conditions. That includes towing, offroading, commercial-use, or, for sedans, using a top carrier. This applies to WS ATF transmissions, non CVT, non hybrid.

 

Yes, my 2010 model has a transmission dipstick. It's near the firewall and on the same side of the engine as the oil dipstick.

Two things that I will never forgive Toyota designers for changing on their vehicles. Removing transmission fluid dipsticks and going from traditional oil filter cans to cartridges. My wife's old 98 Camry had a traditional oil filter that was located on the side of the engine well behind the radiator which made it very easy to remove. Just reach down and unscrew it. Now I find myself having to crawl underneath her 2016 Camry to fight the oil canister to get to the filter element. However, I have found the large o-rings that come with Wix filters make it a little easier to unscrew the canister. The worst ever was the o-ring that came with a Toyota OEM filter.

 

Oh..So you gotta 4Cyl.

 

^This

 

Yes

 

You have to look at the "Warranty" booklet/doc for intervals. I have a 2.7 as well, and it recommends this every 60,000 (assuming automatic - manual trans states every 30K:



But it never states to CHANGE the fluid unless under the conditions specified.
Other times, it just says to "inspect" the transmission fluid.
BUT see my post above regarding my point of view about "lifetime fluids"

 

Okay Gents, I went ahead and drained the pan and replaced exactly the gallon of fluid that came out and will check the proper fluid level using the dipstick.

I would like to add one comment. I've seen A LOT of drain plugs in my 66 years and the drain plug on this pan IS NOT what you expect to see on something that requires what might be considered as routine maintenance. In fact, its relatively small size to the application reminded me more of the drain plug on the bottom of a carburetor float bowl. I can only speculate that Toyota transmission designers saw it more as a convenience in cases where excess fluid could be drained to correct the level on the dipstick. Definitely not something that should be bothered with very often unless you want to run into a case of stripped threads.

 

The amount of fluid on the dipstick is minuscule. Imagine how much color change would be necessary for it to show up in the incredibly thin layer on the dipstick. This isn’t engine oil either, this is transmission fluid that doesn’t come near combustion and resulting carbon/exhaust. Transmission fluid doesn’t change color significantly as it ages when compared to the color change in engine oil.

And as everyone else said the color change isn’t a great measure of life anyway for this fluid. The age itself and type of use are the only really relevant measures.

 

My experience has always been the smell of transmission fluid is what matters most. I've seen transmission fluid that appeared darker than new but with no hint of burnt material.

 

If you do multiple changes, let's say 1 gallon at a time, over 3 changes (dry fill capacity is rated at 10.8 quarts). You MATHEMATICALLY have 75% new transmission fluid.

The change starts going down (ie. doing 4 doesn't equal 100%). It goes something like this:

5 changes = approx 90%
9-10 changes = approx 99%
13+ changes = approximately 99.9%

So you can't REALLY get to 100% via the 'change a gallon at a time method,' but for all intents and purposes, the best bang for the buck (and good enough TO ME) is 3 changes.

example - to obtain 99% = n=log(0.6296)log(0.01)≈−0.2013−2≈9.9⇒10 changes

2 changes mathematically equate to 60.4% 'new.'

 

X2, smell is pretty obvious with ATF in poor condition.