DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4)

DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4).

For LCA BJ replacement see here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...oint-replacement-2005-tacoma.html#post3691540

This is for removal and replacement of a OE LCA bushings ONLY.
I am not covering the removal of OE components that are in the way of bushing removal and installation.


<<<A front end alignment is highly recommended>>>


Tools required:

Common Sense
Ball Joint press
adjustable wrench for above BJ press
<<Specialized Ball Joint adapters>>
Flat head screwdriver
Hammer
Vise Grips
PB Blaster or similar
Mobil 1 grease or similar
Wire brush or similar
Gloves
Safety glasses
Jigsaw with 5" wood blade
Hacksaw with metal blade
Drill
1/4" - 3/8" wood drill bit
Dremel or similar tool with a cut off blade
(2) OE Toyota bushings # 48655-04020
(2) OE Toyota bushings # 48654-04040




Moog is also making newly designed serviceable LCA cams & bolts.
DO NOT BUY!!!! KIT HAS ISSUES!!! WILL UPDATE WHEN MOOG FIXES THE ISSUES. REAR BOLTS DO NOT FIT. FRONTS WORK FINE.
SEE HERE FOR REFERENCE http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...placement-2005-tacoma-4x4-15.html#post7664525
(1) MOOG

$34 K100128 Alignment Caster/Camber Kit for Toyota Tacoma

K100128 Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit ($ 33.79 PER)








SpEcIaL THANKS GO OUT TO BRUTALGUYRACING FOR FINDING THE MOOG GOODIES AND BEING THE GUINEA PIG TO INSTALL THEM.



It's YOUR responsibility to wear the proper PPE and use common sense. This could prove dangerous if the tools required are used in manners they were not designed or intended for. Do not apply torque to the tools past their recommended limit.


Removal

Tip: I soaked all bushings in PB overnight before starting. I was unable to press my bushings out so this is the best way I could think of. If you can press yours out do so.

Tip: Do not mar the bushing seat. Most likely it's rusted to crap already so no need to further damage it.





Step 1: Drill a starter hole in the old rear bushings



The front bushings already have room



Step 2: Using a jigsaw on it's slow setting cut the rubber to free up the center. You might need a hammer to tap out the center of bushing like I needed to do for the fronts.







Step 3: Insert a hacksaw and cut until you are through the bushing sleeve. Make sure you are cutting on the seam of the bushing seat. Do NOT cut to far.

Tip: I cut until I saw rust. Make sure you cut evenly...not like the saw is angled in the below picture - that was for reference only.





Step 4: Using a Dremel cut the collar of the bushing exactly where you cut the inside. Then bend the outside of the collar with vise grips. The slight bending motion should free up the bushing.







Step 5: Tap the bushing out with a hammer and flat screwdriver





Step 6: Clean the rust and grit from the bushing seat. At this point I sanded and painted the LCA.







Step 7: Grease up all the bushings and seats.







Step 8: Insert all the bushings. All four should go in 90% leaving only 1/2" to be pressed.





Step 9: Press in the new bushings.

Front



Rear




Done






Ball Joint adapters used:

Front






Rear






Old bushings

Rear



Front

 

Great info! Thank you!

 

Subbed

 

No wonder you said to cut it...makes perfect sense now. I only removed the bolts. Not the whole bushing.

 

3 of my 4 were seized and with as much water and mud I play in I figured what the hell Ill change the bushings out. Once I got them out I'm glad I did replace them. They were in sad shape due to all the rust.

 

What prevented you from pressing them out?

 

sub'd

 

Probably would have been a good idea for me to do the same. Judging by how bad my bolts were, I can bet the bushing sleeves looked the same as those above. I just didn't think about going that route though, at the time.

 

They were welded by rust. I was not able to press them out. Believe me I tried. I tried using the same tools I used to remove the LCA BJ with no luck.

I did everything I could think of for almost a week including all thread and washers.

Then one day I was sitting on my porch looking at them and thought to myself why not cut the fuckers out
Turns out it was super easy and quick to cut them out so I wrote this up in hope others would find this easier then pressing.

If it weren't for your thread I wouldn't of even tried to do them myself

 

When you try to do it on your truck then you can say that lol

First thread is somewhat usefull second one has nothing new in it and links back to first thread by you

I would recommend using whatever method you can to get them out, but I would like it to be known I tried pressing them with an impact gun, torch, and a press kit after soaking them in PB for a week and got no where so using large sockets and all thread is a waste of time for ones as bad as mine.

 

Nice write up

 

uggggghhhh...

 

Sub'd

 

lol...your truck delivered me my skids and bed rails once upon a time

that thing is mean.

 

Thats funny, such a small world on TW. LOL

So let me get your opinion, how does mine look compared to the new, I was a moron and thought I was missing one whole side, but I just snapped a picture of a new 2012 and it doesn't look that much different.

New...Click for full-size image (1024 x 819)

IMG_0502 by GIMMETHECASH, on Flickr

Mine-----

Click for full-size image (1024 x 768)

 

Look good to me, but it's the cam bolts that are the issue and they can't bee seen. When they seize they rotate with the suspension and usually bend a tab. You have to mark them then loosen and check. In the salt belt states it doesn't hurt to clean and grease them regularly. Mine were shot before 70k due to lack of maintenance and regular swampings. If they are seized and you can't loosen them here is an option but it sucks http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...-replacement-2005-tacoma-4x4.html#post3691528

 

subd

 

i just took a video of my rear lca bushing on the driver side because i have a bad rattle on that side when i hit a bump. is the lca supost to move at all on the bolt because my lca would pull all the way to the front of the bolt then to the back and when i would hit a bump and the rattle would occur the whole lca would shift to the center of the truck then to the outside, im assuming this is my problem and its the source of my rattle. but i dont have flattened cam alignment tabs so its like the whole lca is shifting while the bolt stays in place. so my question is do i need new bushings or cam bolts or both ???

 

Upload the video if you can but it sounds like your bushings are shot. The rubber should allow for some flex but it shouldn't be that noticable and certainly shouldn't be making noise. Was anything loosened recently, like for an alignment? The alignment shop didn't properly torque mine once and it made a clunk noise until I torqued down the bolts.

 

no not recently but i will check that the video is uploading right now