4.0L 1GR 2nd Gen Oil Change Guide

Thanks. That is very good information. I like the trick "simply see if the bottle cap will screw onto the Toyota oil cap. If it screws on then the bottle should screw into the valve cover." I have long used oil bottles for funnels but I bought Shell syn because it was on sale. These bottles don't screw in and when forced it cross threaded and some plastic dropped into the valve cover. Anyway thanks again for the trick.

 

I've finally read a few more pages of this thread and found I posted absolutely nothing that has't been mentioned before. I'd whine about how long the thread is because of all the useless posts....but it looks like I'm part of the problem.

 

Does an official record of all oil changes need to exist to keep the warranty in good standing? If it doesn't, I'm going to do all my oil changes in the future.

 

I just bought 10' of 5/16" ID tubing at Home Depot. They sell it in the plumbing aisle.

 

Don't worry about the 0.4qts. Really, your engine will be fine

 

Official?

Just keep a written log. I write down the brand oil and viscosity, date, mileage, and oil filter used, and any other worthwhile notes in the back of my maintenance book. Use a small notebook if you'd rather.

I do this for almost everything I change except wiper blades cabin filter etc.. or topping off random fluids unless there is something important to note.

This helps you keep track of everything you've done. It's a good reference if you're selling the vehicle, and it's also a good reference if you have to deal with a warranty claim.

I've no good reason but I decided to add all of my log into a google document, I go through and update it every once in a while.

Heres a fictitious log I made for an example. You could go farther and include part numbers for air filter and spark plugs etc etc... or do it however you want, just an example for you.

 

Hell while I'm at it, I'll throw my .02 in for some other shit.

I've changed my oil since day 1 myself. I think like 20 times now. Not once have I replaced the crush washer on the drain bolt, and not once have I found a drop of oil on the pan.

I've also changed my rear diff fluid probably 8 times, lol, and haven't changed either crush washer, same story with the front, though I've changed that less times, and have leaked no drops of oil. I clean all surfaces really well and just run em again and again. Just saying.

Rather than a hose, I just stuff a water bottle between the fan shroud and the radiator hose, and hook the bottle under the nipple on the oil filter shroud deal. 20 times of doing that and never an issue. Do what works best for you though. Just an option.

Personally I dump a 5qt jug in, and then about half of a 1 qt jug and it comes up perfect on the dip stick every time.


Probably all been covered already but whatever, it's a party.

 

You can register your Toyota, (but not your Lexus or Scion) and keep a log on their site. Dealer service shows up there also.

http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/home

Not sure if this was already mentioned, too laze to page back and look.

 

U can do 'em. I also write a note on my reciet noting which vehicial & the milage at the time .

 

I read every single post on this thread then went out and changed the oil on my 2007 v6. Because of this thread, I did it without a splattering a single drop of oil.

I replaced the drain plug gasket for 1.19$ from local dealer. I did inspect the existing one and it looked like new. If it weren't for that gasket, I wouldn't have to visit my dealer. I could buy everything aftermarket at advance auto.

It really is hard to read the oil dipstick.

I thought about using tubing leading from the oil filter drain, but to avoid having to make a trip to the store and hunt for it, i used the other tip which was a water bottle. worked flawlessly. wouldve been a huge mess without this tip. don't forget to remove the bottle when you are done though.

cost analysis:
oil filter and gasket 7.50$
mobil1 full synthetic 6 quarts 26$
vs.
dealer charge oil change "special" with dino oil 32.95$ (not really a "special" IMO)

 

Check out this thread:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...-oil-filter-made-thailand-vs-competition.html

I only buy the factory filter now. My dealership sells it for under $5.00 and they throw in the plug gasket for free

 

I changed my own oil yesterday for the first time in over 10 years. I was very glad to have the stealer to it for me all that time. Lately the stealer was so busy that the wait to get service was becoming a problem. That, plus the ease and value of the

$33 Fumoto F-103 with LC-10 Included F-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

Fumoto F-103 drain valve and access to a garage it's just too easy to do myself now. Plus the peace of mind of doing it myself and knowing it was done correctly.

I paid $30.00 for six quarts for Penzoil 5-30W full synthetic oil which included a $15.00 rebate. So my net price is $15.00 plus tax for the oil.

Stealer sold me 6 oil filters @ $3.84 each.

Did the oil change last night and installed the valve. Even without the valve I only spilled three drops and that was on dirt. Yay!

This guide was helpful.

 

Glad to of stumbled upon this. Honestly. The whole upside down filter was freaking me out. I just used a little cup underneath the drain and it seemed to work fine! I forgot how nice not having to put a sedan on jack stands was....

 

how the hell we supposed to get this filter off?.. i tried both hands, a claw type filter wrench, and a strap wrench.. all i'm doing is damaging the damn filter

 

I know that the first filter removal is tough. The factory has a special gorilla that torques the filters down. I use a pair of filter pliers and usually will dent the old filter a little bit, but it doesn't matter as it's going in the trash can anyways.
Good luck.

 

how much damage is too much before i can't drive it somewhere for help?... tried channel lock pliers too (a bit undersized though), but seem to just keep tearing it up.. am i gripping it in the wrong place?... there's hardly any room for range of motion...

 

Get yourself a chisel punch or a screw driver, set it into the base, and tap that filter around. If you punch a hole though then you're in it for the money. Not a big deal IMO but if you're skills aren't up to par don't punch a hole. Keep to carefully tapping at the base with the chisel. You'll get it broken free.

Get the channel locks at the base too where it won't collapse on ya. Pipe wrench if you have to. IMO though a chisel at the base is easiest. Just angle it so it'll spin the filter off.

 

Also it doesn't take much effort to pull that plastic engine cover up out of the way if it's impeding your range of motion.

 

you want me to use a chisel?... i dunno, ...i'm not one for destructive measures, ...i guess i'm worried i'll be stuck if i destroy it but can't get it off...