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P1135 error code. Where to buy part?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by m32, Jan 22, 2012.

  1. May 22, 2012 at 10:35 AM
    #21
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Pull the guts out of the cat, and you will always get a CEL. The post cat sensor will tell you that the cat is not functioning, or that the sensor is bad.
     
  2. May 23, 2012 at 7:51 AM
    #22
    Biscay89

    Biscay89 Member

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    Thanks for the response Skytower.

    I haven't messed with the cat just yet but still get the error code. I assumed that meant there is a problem with the sensor and why I'm still curious if and how I should replace it.
     
  3. May 24, 2012 at 8:35 AM
    #23
    misterdmac

    misterdmac Well-Known Member

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    You'll want this: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=991826

    ...or something like it. This is one of the easiest things to do. It's easier than changing your oil. Just make sure the sensor you get has the electrical harness pre-wired on. Some just come with loose wires, which you would then have to mate with those from your existing harness. It can literally be this simple:

    Disconnect battery.
    Remove sensor harness, sometimes a gentle coaxing with a flathead helps.
    Unbolt sensor.
    Install new gasket.
    Bolt on new sensor and reconnect harness.

    If you have rust, start spraying the studs down with Liquid Wrench a few days before you do the job. Good luck, you can do it. :thumbsup:
     
  4. May 24, 2012 at 12:44 PM
    #24
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    OK, after reading this post I felt the need to give some information so people would be able to understand the system better.

    ALL of the sensors are Oxygen sensors. The one before the cat is used to measure air/fuel ratio, and the one after the cat is used to measure the efficiency of the cat. Either way, they both do the exact same job: Measuring oxygen content in the exhaust stream.

    Code P1135 is for the oxygen sensor pre-heater. What the pre-heater does is, using electricity, it heats up the sensor quicker, so it is more efficient.

    If you bore out the cat, you will always have a check engine light, because the post-cat sensor will know that your cat is not doing it's job, so it will set a code.

    If you have a p1135 code you can test for failure.

    Disconnect the suspect oxygen sensor. using a volt meter set on DC scale, check for voltage on the white/red wire on the vehicle side of the harness (not the sensor side) You should have battery voltage. If you do, then the next step can be a bit tricky. The oxygen sensor heater is only commanded on when the engine is "COLD" Since you do not have access to the Toyota scan tool that will allow you to override this, you will have a very short time span to test this...... Connect your volt meter with the positive lead on the white/red wire and the ground lead of the meter to the solid white wire. Have a friend start the truck. If your computer is operating properly you should get battery voltage during which the heater is being activated. If you do, then the heater inside the oxygen sensor has failed. Barring this actual test, you can always just replace the sensor, as the majority of the time this code is indicative of a failed sensor. But now you all know how to test it on this year and engine type!
     
  5. May 25, 2012 at 8:40 AM
    #25
    Biscay89

    Biscay89 Member

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    misterdmac- Thanks for the link.. as I see it, replacing them is the safest way to go.
    (To quote ALIENS "I say we take off and nuke the site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure. ")

    Bamatoy1997- I think you wrote some interesting info, although I'm not sure because I kept looking down at that gif. Jeezzzz
     
  6. May 25, 2012 at 9:30 AM
    #26
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Hahaha. Everyone seems to love this sig of mine. I used to change it out once a month, but this one has gotten such good response that I have kept it here.
     
  7. May 29, 2012 at 12:15 PM
    #27
    Biscay89

    Biscay89 Member

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    Hello all,
    A few more questions:
    1) Are the sensors before and after the CAT the same? (i.e. When I replace the sensors do I purchase TWO Densor 234-9001 O2 sensors?)
    I found that part on AMAZON for $96.73.

    I went to PEPBOYS and they had upstream & downstream versions. PRICED:
    BOSCH #13613 LIF $179.99 Upstream - OE Type
    BOSCH #13618 LIF PBY $83.99 Downstream - OE Type
    BOSCH #15739 LIF $69.99 Universal fit -Downstream

    2) Outside of making the P1135 error go away, the objective here is enhanced gas mileage, no?
    What sort of improvement could I expect?

    Pardon the novice-ness of my questions but I'm, well.. a novice.
     
  8. May 29, 2012 at 12:26 PM
    #28
    goomba

    goomba It is a Fluid Situation

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    DENSO! I have had bad luck with Bosch
     
  9. May 29, 2012 at 12:49 PM
    #29
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    Man, use rock auto! and read what people are telling you. like almost anything on a truck they get old and need to be replaced.
    [​IMG]
    I just did mine, did not throw a code, but I had figured with everything else I had done, why not, and these are about the worst I have ever seen on a car or truck. my rule of thumb is 80,000 miles replace. they get dirty, and dont run 100%, and this leads to poor engine performance.
    my truck runs so much better. its not too hard, they don't cost too much, and its just a factor in having a car.
     
  10. May 29, 2012 at 6:47 PM
    #30
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Remember also, as was mentioned, the 1135 Code has nothing to do with performance or fuel management. It has to do with the internal heater for the oxygen sensor. Once the sensor has warmed up (less than 5 minutes) then as long as you don't have a performance code, you will be fine.
     
  11. May 30, 2012 at 5:50 PM
    #31
    Biscay89

    Biscay89 Member

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    Great feedback everyone. Genuinely appreciate all the input.

    CEL came back on today so I'll be swapping out both. I'll report back the results... and probably hold a mesmerized gaze at BamaToys gif...

    p.s. Hot or not.. the chick in the back is holding a bottle of Vodka... just sayin'
     
  12. May 30, 2012 at 6:15 PM
    #32
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    LIQUOR IN THE FRONT, STICK HER IN THE REAR:p
     
  13. Aug 6, 2012 at 2:16 PM
    #33
    Badbagger

    Badbagger Well-Known Member

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  14. Aug 6, 2012 at 2:42 PM
    #34
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    and the difference is about the same amount at the 3 big auto parts chain stores around me, its called overhead, board of directors, company cars and prob. a plane, thats why i got em form rockauto, and they actually sent tracking numbers and a thank-you email, not a sour look like "what the %^&* do you want? I am busy on the phone and I am going to smoke and then take a break!
     
  15. Aug 6, 2012 at 4:00 PM
    #35
    Ecnerwal

    Ecnerwal Well-Known Member

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  16. Aug 13, 2012 at 1:40 PM
    #36
    Jedi54

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  17. Aug 13, 2012 at 3:39 PM
    #37
    Ecnerwal

    Ecnerwal Well-Known Member

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    Rockauto is like $20 bucks cheaper before the TW rockauto 5% discount...but shop where it suits you.

    Auto tranny - Denso 2349001 $97.79 Manual 2349002 - $99.79 (yes, Calfornia parts for your year. 50 state parts by mine, evidently) OK, you might have a 6, not that you said that, or which tranny - in which case it's 2349003 for a manual tranny at $108.79

    I highly recommend spending the $55-56 on the rear sensor at the same time - it's gonna go too. Sensors are way cheaper than cats. Oddly, for the downstream sensor the California one is cheapest.

    Just did this to mine after an 1135 - the different Denso part numbers appear to be "toyota" .vs. Denso but not toyota (aftermarket denso for toyota), plus some intermediate Denso parts superceded by these ones. Or it may be that these ones are made in USA and the ones I took out where made in Japan. RA says these work in the 2000 same as the 2002 (mine) and they work fine in mine.
     
  18. Sep 6, 2012 at 9:41 PM
    #38
    Jedi54

    Jedi54 Member

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  19. Sep 7, 2012 at 11:33 AM
    #39
    Ecnerwal

    Ecnerwal Well-Known Member

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    2349001 front, 2344189 rear.
     
  20. Apr 7, 2013 at 3:13 PM
    #40
    Sign Guy

    Sign Guy Well-Known Member

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    I all of a sudden got the p1135 code on my prerunner and both O'reily's and Autozone? wanted about ~$179.99, made me swallow my dentures when they said how much - LOL :eek:

    Looks like the price at rock auto went up ~$18 in the past 8 months:confused: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=14&partnum=2349001


    I found it cheaper at Amazon ~$102 http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-900...002&vehicleType=automotive&newCar=1&carId=001

    Weird thing is that at Amazon they said the part won't fit my 2002 V6 Prerunner? WTH? Oreilly said the part they were selling is the Bosch 13613 I checked some conversion and it says the Denso 234-9001 will work so I think the Amazon site must be messed up. Any thoughts?

    Any other place to pick one of these up? I know you folks talked about this 8 months ago but going up that much in 8 months seems like a lot. roughly 20%
     

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