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help lower control arm

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by joshua721, May 12, 2012.

  1. May 12, 2012 at 10:49 AM
    #21
    Fast_Freddy

    Fast_Freddy Well-Known Member

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    Haha...hey, mine is a 99...the amount of rust build up was a whole lot more than a 05+...the inside was pitted from the rust(I still had to remove the cam shaft from the bushing sleeve since I was installing poly bushings and had to re-use the sleeves). I tried beating it out for a couple of days, no budging at all.
     
  2. May 12, 2012 at 10:59 AM
    #22
    joshua721

    joshua721 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have the control arms out but that sleeve isn't coming free.
     
  3. May 12, 2012 at 11:05 AM
    #23
    ktmrider

    ktmrider Senior Member

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    at some point you need to question how much time is wasted on the seized cam and compare that to what it would take to go pick up a new one
     
  4. May 12, 2012 at 11:06 AM
    #24
    Fast_Freddy

    Fast_Freddy Well-Known Member

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  5. May 12, 2012 at 2:04 PM
    #25
    joshua721

    joshua721 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That's cute seeing I have all those thing and the don't come out.
     
  6. May 12, 2012 at 2:33 PM
    #26
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    I have highlighted the problem.

    In fairness, and putting the ball busting aside, things will differ a bit by region. Oswego had to cut his shit out because he lives in New Jersey and the road conditions up there in the winter can make plastic rust to vinyl. Everything seizes.

    Since somewhere along the line we moved from getting the LCA off the frame to getting the bushings out of the LCA, and I'm not quite sure what you're asking anymore, let me offer this:

    Both the lower control arm, and the bushings in it, can be removed. How much trouble you will have doing this is multi-factorial. If you do not succeed with one method, other methods may prove more effective. The community has tried to assist you by providing instructions for the more common methods of removing these components. If, instead of acting on these instructions, you prefer to type snide replies, you are cordially invited to figure it out your own fucking self.

    Have fun.
     
  7. May 12, 2012 at 2:47 PM
    #27
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    How do you torque this out when it's seized? Anyone can loosen the nut. That's the easy part. Getting the metal out that's welded together by corrosion is a different story.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. May 12, 2012 at 4:05 PM
    #28
    joshua721

    joshua721 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Awww. Actually you started of your first reply by being a doosh then get your fellings hurt quick. My location has snow and salt so its welded for good and new is orderd.

    And a thank you to the helpful members and the person who took the time to make a walk through.
     
  9. May 12, 2012 at 5:14 PM
    #29
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    [​IMG]
     
  10. May 14, 2012 at 11:31 AM
    #30
    BTO

    BTO Well-Known Member

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    No need for a forum brawl. Notice it's the people on the west coast who say PB blaster and a hammer is all you need? The east coast people say it's not possible and you have to cut. This basically means it all comes down to where you live and how much rust you got. Nobody is a goon.
     
  11. May 14, 2012 at 11:37 AM
    #31
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously through myself Moderator

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    I'm a goon from the northeast and had to cut mine due to the rust.
     
  12. May 14, 2012 at 12:05 PM
    #32
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    I call BS!

    You're about as much a goon as you are fist pumper :D


    edit: and I still want to know how to torque out a bolt that's already had it's nut loosened (post #27 above)
     
  13. Nov 16, 2012 at 8:22 AM
    #33
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Got a set of take-off Cambolts, complete set of 4 assemblies, used but still just fine for what they do, not bend, etc. Shoot me a PM.
     

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