PreRunner vs 4wd driveshaft

So comparing a dcsb auto pre vs 4wd. Is there any differences in the main driveshaft aside from the fact that the 4wd has 5 zerk fittings?

 

2WD has a slip yoke that slides into the tail housing of the transmission. The 4WD has the slip yoke aft of the center bearing, and the front of the driveshaft is a flange that bolts up to the transfer case.

Only 3 u-joints on the main driveshaft, 3 zerks. Other two are hiding on the front driveshaft

 

Figured a swap wouldn't work. Just sucks you can't grease the 2wd shaft

 

umm... well yes the 2wd has a yoke that slips into the tail of the transmission. It is not the same as the slip joint you describe... both have a slip joint just after the center u joint to allow for a change in length due to suspension movement.

That stated, the 2wd and 4wd are of different lengths on the front shaft due to the transfer case and rear shaft changes in length for ACLB/DCSB and DCLB wheel bases.

And i want to say but dont quote me, all have zerk fittings after 07, or is it 09. You can easily put in greasable u joints into a drive shaft that does not have greasable u joints.

 

I have an 08 and located 0 while installing my drive shaft spacer this afternoon. They are all sealed. If the newer pre's have that Maybe I could swap into one of those

 

I can confirm that the 2012 Prerunner's have Zerk Fittings on the drive shaft.

 

FSM says no slip joint behind the center universal joint on 2WD

 

I guess just replacing the ujoints that have zerks would probably be the cheapest option. Can someone suggest what brand and part number to purchase because I've never changed them before but looks simple. I'd assume ujoints have sizes??

 

You have 5 total zerks for a 4wd ?? I've got 8 or 9 actually

 

well... 5 total on the actual drive shafts... then there are the ones for the ball joints yeah?


also the prerunners have to have a slip joint, the center carrier doesnt move forward and aft.... take another look.

 

Spicer joints supposedly last the longest.

$28 5-213X U-Joint Kit 1330 Series (OSR)

5-213X have the zerk in the middle, and

$33 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

5-1330-1X have the zerk in the cap like the OEM 4WD shafts.

Might have to find these at a driveline shop, which is good because you can give them the part number off your driveshaft and be 100% sure they'll fit.

Factory ball joints = no zerks, all permanently greased.

copied this from one of Relik's posts. Center bearing DOES move, in the rubber itself. Not how I would design it, but there it is

 

Awesome thanks for those part numbers. I'm away from my truck so for more clarification there is a ujoint in the front by the tranny. A 2nd after the cb and a 3rd right before the rear diff? 3 ujoints and a cb joint?

 

no such thing as a cb joint, at least not under a truck anyways lol

Yeah, just the 3. Should all be the same size AFAIK. They were on my 4WD shaft. The middle one has to be removed for access to the nut that secures the center bearing.

I had a driveshaft shop change mine out with the

$28 5-213X U-Joint Kit 1330 Series (OSR)

5-213X. Heck with the new bearing and a rebalancing it was under $200 total. I couldn't justify doing it myself for that

 

Carrier Barring. The doohickey where the two shafts meet in the middle

 

The Non Greasable u joints are actually superior. I have the Splicer hd permanently greased joints, there the best available for these driveshafts, like said above, same as the non grease ball joints. Don't worry about changing them til there broken, it's not necessary.

 

It's true the non-greaseables don't have the joint cross drilled for grease passage so they are a fair bit stronger. Good for rock climbing, drag racing, and other high torque situations. (edit: these are Spicer 5-1330 joints from the factory if you want them again)

For general road conditions the greaseables tend to last longer though, provided you purge all the old grease out every oil change, and use the proper stuff Dana says to use. Many guys get 200k+ out of factory greaseables.

 

Well, no actually..at least my ball joints are the shitty perma-seal type
any part you can't service/lube is a waste of money..perma-seal is a perma-fail

I could not disagree more, any moving external part that isn't serviceable is doomed to fail, grease gets old like everything else & they WILL dry out leading to failure, My 2000 came stock with zerks on everything that you'd service /lube... I'm on my original U joints, 216k still tight & quiet

& you obliviously have never had a ball joint drop out on you, if you had you'd make it a priority to check before you left your driveway, everyday

 

If we were talking about axle joints then yes they are superior but for a drive shift where the torque is 3-4 times less than a serviceable joint is better for service life.

 

That would indeed suck. I was lucky; caught one LBJ before it had a chance to separate on my first car. Boot tore, grease gone, joint toast. Scary.

 

wow thats crazy on the prerunners, how the the hell does that driveshaft expand and collapse for suspension movement.