Synthetic vs Reg Oil in a low milage Tacoma

Yeah, I agree. That statement is total BS. If the engines sludged and you were on extended oil changes most dealerships would leave you SOL. They have every right too when you don't follow the service manual and your fluid clearly went bad.

Amisol is a probably good product, I know a few guys who run it and seem to like it, but it's by no means a miracle. It's a snake oil type product and anyone who blindly runs it for 25K on there program is asking for trouble.

 

Right, I have no personal commitment to Mobil 1 other than what may come from having used it for several years without a problem. But as has been pointed out, the same would probably have been true if I had used Walmart oil and changed it according to the manufacturer's maintenance schedule. When you look at what has been done to oils as a result of government regulations and automakers' demands, it seems likely that oils are more alike than they are different. I think the longer molecular chains of synthetic (from what I have read anyhow) probably give it a longer lifespan. I used to change oil every 3k with mineral-based and an API grade of SE and had engines go way past 200k. You keep the oil clean and you are going to be fine.

 

Meh, I use whichever synthetic happens to be on sale. Statistically I end up with Mobil 1 the majority of the time. I sometimes have half a quart left over, which goes in the lawn mower. Don't really care if it's the "best" oil, because it's still way ahead of dino oils. Our engines aren't some air-cooled, 9000-rpm turbo monstrosity that's stressful on oil (and if you have such a monstrosity, use Shell Rotella T6...)

 

Funny you should mention that; I had an air cooled turbo bike (16lbs boost and 11k RPM) and a friend had an air cooled turbo VW monstrosity that went to 8700RPM and 12lbs boost, tho not used a lot it was driven balls out every time with the wheels spinning past 100MPH often and both ran on regular Rotella 15-40. When the VW blew I tore it apart; a piston had broken taking out the cylinder, camshaft, connecting rod, engine block, etc., but there was no sign of any lubrication issues anywhere in the motor.

 

Glad to know I am not the only one who reads Bob is the Oil Guy.

It should be required reading for everyone who likes to do their own oil changes. I have been running Mobil 1 0W-30 since 4500 miles.

My first oil report from Blackstone was horrible. Metals and silicon... but normal for an engine breaking in. I replaced the factory oil with Mobil 1 at 4500 miles and the report at 9500 was A LOT better and almost normal in every category. I expect the 3rd oil change to be perfect.

 

I run Mobile One in my engine because...well, it's a synthetic oil that's priced almost as cheap as a conventional oil. I think I can find a 5 quart jug at Walmart for ~$20. I change it every 5K miles (which is probably a little early in modern engines, but it isn't going to hurt it sticking to that schedule.)

I run Redline in my transmission & diff, with a 30K mile change interval. GL-4 in the transmission, and GL-5 in the diff. 2005-2008 X-Runners have "clutch type" LSDs, and I found the GL-5 doesn't require additional friction modifiers be added to the diff oil.