Amazing what a 3 degree shim can do

Axles shims are a way to fix driveline angles and you really won't know if you need them , or if you do , what degree you need until after you've installed your leaf pack

 

Thanks. Im considering taking the plunge and trying these out to see if it fixes some of the slight vibrations I'm getting. Just looking for more insight.

 

pic for installing

 

I thought you sold the truck & got a sports car Matt?

 

I noticed truck had a slightly weird stance and saw mine cracked in half and some how fell out while wheeling.

 

shit can change quick on the internet

 

So I just purchased the Dakars for my 14 AC TRD OR 4x4. The Axle shims from Toytek come in 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, and 4 deg angles. I think I'm just installing the Dakars as they come and not removing any leafs. I have a shell on the back and the truck sits level now w/ stock OR suspension. How do I determine what degree shims I should buy? I'm adding Sway Away coil overs and shocks also. shooting for around 2.0 - 2.5 lift in front and 2.5 or a little more in rear

 

Would this be a fix for the stock setup driveline vibration as well? Since I've had my truck (about 3 weeks) I notice there is a vibration right around 20mph. There's also another one around 60mph but I assumed that was the tires needing balancing as it feels a little different than the rear vibration at 20 mph. ?

 

Read this http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/244535-drive-shaft-vibrations-solved-step-step.html

Honestly I didnt do this^. From reading what people have I tried to do it blind and it worked. I have an acces cab with dakars and a add a leaf which provided me with about 3 1/4 inch in the back. Others running this setup have all gotten 3 degree shims. Do not go with a 4 degree shim. Those are more for 6 inch lifted trucks. If I was you I would get 2.5 degree or the 3 degree based on your rig.

I have heard of people adding a leaf to the pack to help the vibration and I have also heard of people doing axle shims. Every truck is different. Check the tires first and then if its not it purchase a carrier bearing drop and then go to shims.

 

When you get shims - try to find STEAL shims. They'll be a better choice than alluminum. Nothing wrong with aluminum.....

I ran with aluminum 3 degree shims on my 96 for years without any problems.

However - I've heard that some other folks who have run aluminum shims......because aluminum is soft, the shims tend to 'deform' over time. When they deform, the ubolts will loosen up....

Just something to be aware of.....

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Amazing what lying to people can do.

 

what happened there?

Back on topic.

I want to do my OME set-up in summer, should I just go ahead and order the 3* with it or try it without first?

 

I was driving without shims and a a shudder at take off now my truck is vibrating even more with the 3 degree shims.

 

Here's some pics. I believe they had installed them wrong. the skinny end is toward the rear.

 

Yeah that's wrong. Skinny end toward the front. Rotates the front of the axle up countering what the lift does.

 

Not sure if anyone else has ever seen this (I posted the video in another thread but I think it's a bit inactive).

Anyhow, this video teaches all about measuring driveline pinion angles and how to determine what size shims you may or may not need. It's long but informative.

http://youtu.be/f1m-Fh5kiRU

 

Excellent! Thanks. WOOOOOO!

 

That is a great video

 

Lots of thanks for this! I've read all the various drive shaft docs but this video gives a much better high level understanding a lot faster. And that's saying something coming from me, I tend to hate videos and prefer text.