02 Tacoma doublecab 3-Link on FJ80 axles

Made more progress.



Tubing adapters burned into the upper/lower links.



You can call me the human lathe.



Everything is somewhat in the place it needs to be.

 

Are you painting your whole truck with that - rattle can or sprayer?

 

@Dalandser I haven't decided yet, I really don't want to spend a bunch of money on something that's just going to get scratched up. I'm leaning toward wrapping the truck. I found a company that will print custom colors on vinyl.

 

I'm in the same boat - I'll have 4 different body colors once I'm done so I'm considering raptor liner in a similar color since textured finishes hold dirt...

 

I'm completely lost on where to start with spring rates and coil spring lengths. Im running 14" coilovers, I know the general rules of having your bottom coil be long enough for the slider to no droop below the body, lighter spring on top and to keep the rates within 150 pounds of eachother.

 

For lengths you should use coils for 14” travel coil overs. When you order them I’d call and talk to someone versus doing it online.
As for rates I believe Brian Reynolds is running 175/250. He has a double cab first gen but id assume that wouldn’t matter much

 

subd...sick build man, cant wait to see it in the dirt

 

I’m running 200lbs/250lbs on my 12” coilovers. 200x12 upper and 250x14 lower.

I’d do 200x14 upper and 250x16 lower on 14” shocks.

 

@Rockbaron1 whats your ride quality like. I'm coming from king bolt in coil-overs with a 700 lb spring. I like a little bit firmer ride, for example coming down off a ledge I dont like a lot of compression just enough to eat a little uptravel. Also not going to have a sway bar on the rig that will be driven to the trails.

 

The ride quality is going to be far more dependent on your shock valving. I started with a pyramid stack of .015 shims on compression side and that was way to stiff for me, but I kinda like a soft cadallac ride. I changed to a flutter stack using a combo of .010 and .015 shims and the deference was pretty noticeable, much better. Also this is for an FOA shock, valving is going to be depentant on shock brand and piston design. Different pistons need different valving.

Springs just need to set the ride hight without binding at full bump or loosing preload at full droop.

 

Check out my reply to questions about spring rates on my build. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/03-prerunner-4wu-3link-up-date.407191/page-9
View post #178... this may help you.

Good luck.

 

Have you used this? http://www.crawlpedia.com/spring_rate_calculator.htm Also I think Poly Performance will trade in springs if you still haven't purchased them. What length are your links?

 

She lives. lot of small things to do but it's getting there.
please ignore my rusty exhaust, that's all getting cut out for a new cat back setup.

 

Body lift? Mind if I ask why you added one?

 

Looks good! How long are your links and what kind of angle?

 

Looks nice man. I’m so not used to seeing hi-steer on an fj80 axle.

 

1) Clearance for the dual cases inside the trans tunnel
2) move my rock sliders up
3) to give more clearance inside the fenderwells
4) room to mount the solenoid box for my winch under the grill hopefully

 

Looking good.
A couple questions:
1. What is your caster set at?
2. What is your wheelbase?

My caster is 3.4 DS, 3.7 PS. The .3 difference is built into the Diamond axle. Wheelbase is 105.5" DS, 105.7" PS.

 

Haven't got it professionally aligned yet, set everything with a tape measure just to get it roll-able. I let you know
when I do

 

Sorry but I can't see how you would determine a body lift?