04 tacoma rear end help

I replaced clutch and had 3rd member rebuilt on my 04 tacoma. Clutch went smooth but had to have shop rebuild the rear gears. It was completely stripped. I put it back together but having 2 issues. One clutch pedel doesn't spring all the way back out. Tried to bleed at the slave but still same. Biggest issue tho is when starting out and turning the rear end seems to lock up just a little. Almost like when you turn in 4wd on pavement. Drives great on highway and when heading straight tho. Now abs light, engine light and rear diff locker lights flicker. When I hit rear diff locker button when stopped I can hear it engage and disengage

 

Does that thing have a wire in the rear diff for ABS? Could be something installed wrong...

 

Ya there's 2 harnesses but both different size so cant be backwards. There's also what appears to be as a vacuum line. I've put the first hundred miles on at low speeds like was instructed. Checked fluid and it's still full. Scratching my head here

 

hhmmmmm.

I've never had a Toyota e-locker, so no actual experience here, but I'm pretty sure that when not engaged, the diff acts like a standard 'open' diff.

Yours seems to behave like the locker is physically engaged all the time.
What happens when you jack up the rear (on a flat surface, both tires off the ground, TC or tranny in neutral, parking brakes off and with both front tires well chocked) and rotate one wheel? The other side should rotate in the opposite direction. If the locker is engaged the other side will rotate in the same direction.

EDIT :
Perhaps a safer way to do this test, is to only jack up one rear corner, everything else the same. You should be able to spin that tire. If not, the locker is 'engaged'.

 

I'll try that tonight. Thanks.

 

Lockers have been known to seize from time to time. There are a few threads on it.

 

You can check if its locked or unlocked as mentioned above, if in the wrong position you can remove the elocker motor and you should see what looks like a bar through the hole, flick it in the right direction with a large flat head screw driver, while the elocker motor is out you can also operate it to ensure it isnt locked up

 

OK thanks. That would be pretty shitty. Lockers should be brand new. Just paid $1100 to have diff rebuilt. I had pulled it off myself and dropped it off at shop for rebuild

 

I think i know your problem then, you have to move that bar to the proper position when you put it back in!

 

Well that Sucks. Do I have to take it off to position it? What position does it need to be in?

 

You simply need to take off the motor, you should have to slide it towards the outside of the differential.

I found you a thread with pictures
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-installation-of-e-locker-3rd-member.193828/

 

Man. Thanks a ton. I'll check it out when I get off. I appreciate it.

 

Anytime, keep us posted if it wirks

 

OK I have locker off. See the key sliding on bar. Which way do I side it. Towards differential or wheel?

 

I think toward the wheel

 

You sir are a damn genius. Worked like a charm. After racking my brain what the could be wrong for weeks. Just glad I didn't do any damage puting 100 miles on it in that condition. Works great now and it engages properly on and off when I hit the button.
Any suggestions on getting the clutch pedal to spring all the way out? I never opened the lines so I didnt think they needed to be bleed. When I dropped the Tranny I just removed the slave whole

 

Maybe try lubing it with white lithium grease, or wd40 gel, ive never fully solved my clutch return issue

 

Unless you sync the exact tooth of the motor actuator pinion to the exact tooth of the locker rack gear as shown in the FSM you have no way of knowing if it is correct. It can be off and still "work" just not fully engaged or disengaged as was likely the case at the get go. And yes, possibly causing damage, more so when putting a load on it when you think it's fully locked.
Your call.

 

I definitely want it to be right. I am struggling to comprehend the diagram tho.
By sliding it all the way right towards wheel it seems to have fully unlocked it and when I engage the locker switch it seems to lock and I can feel it in wheels.
I feel like this should have been something that the gear shop that rebuilt the diffential should have taken care of in the first place.