07 Tacona DC Front Door Speakers Will These 8" Midbass Speakers Fit?

Sorry for the long post I just wanted to provide as much detailed info as possible to give a clear picture of what im looking to do here and get some expert advice

So my Pyle plg64 6.5 woofer experiement didnt work, theyre not producing the amount of low/mid to mid bass I had hoped they would its likelt because the really need an enclosure to work right and the front doors open-ish air setup isnt working. Ive got 83w rms going to each side from a ppi a1000.4 amp and a half cut out foam xtc baffle. While theyre firing hard its not creating even a close to a balance with the new (2) JL Audio 10w0's i just installed in the back. They are just hollow....my 6.5 cheap SSL 6.5 2 ways running off my 22w rms Kenwood head unit produce better bass in these ranges likely because these speakers are designed to be in a door with the lightweight cone etc.

I really need to even if its slightly fill this 100hz-200hz gap in my sound now that the infinity reference shallow 12 was previously using has been upgraded to these 2 JL 10w0's and they do sound phenominal btw!

Has anybody successfully fit an 8" shallow mid bass or subwoofer speaker in their front doors? Im using 3/4" Thick oak laminated pieces of plywood that work great and have sound deadened the entore area around the speaker with dynamat like material.

If i cut my adapter plates correctly to the right size for these Cadence XM84HCi 8" midbass speakers which are shallow enough to work w/o interfering with my windows do you guys think ill be able to fit these (link below) in my front doors utilizing my wood adapters (ill post a pic below) even if i have to do a 45 degree cut or use a router that follows the basket angle?

Here are the speakers id really like to use or will I have to stick to 6.5 components?

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...efSrc=xm88hci&nosto=nosto-product-prod-mobile

Ps i have kicker CS35 3.5" 2 way speakers in place of the stock tweeters and PPI T.2 tweeters flush mounted in the sail panels so im good on everything above 200hz and theyre using the other 2 channels of the PPI A1000.4 amp.

 

Here is a shot of the pyle 6.5 plg64 speakers and the wood adapters I made, they work great and as you can see ive used sound deadener, an xtc 6.5 baffle with the bottom half cut away per info from here. Id love to replace these 6.5's with the speakers in the link above IF its possible or ill just stick to buying 6.5 components JUST for the 6.5 mid bass drivers since my midrange and up is covered.

 

And here is a quick shot of the kicker 3.5 speakers in the stock tweeter locations...yes the grills do snap back into place w/o hitting the speaker. Also a pic of my new ppi t.2 tweeters flush mounted in the sail panels. (Disregard the stuff below the tweeter its double sided tape residue that has since been cleaned off)

 

@loginfailed

 

I managed to stuff a pair of 8” Dayton’s in my doors. Took a couple of birch rings to make it happen, but it can be done.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/loginfaileds-stolen-idea-emporium-plus-bs.520767/



Look closely there’s a 1/2” thick 6”x9” adapter plate and then on top of that there’s another 1/2” thick 8” spacer on top of that.

These Daytons really kick. Almost don’t even need a sub, unless you’re a bass head like I am.

Dayton RS225-4
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs225-4-8-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-376

 

Awesome!! Thank you for the response, looks like there is hope. I do have 2 questions though:

Why did you have to add that secondary ring on there? Was it because of the mount depth of the Dayton 8" speaker or did you need it for the cutout diameter because the basket was hitting the edges of the actual speaker opening on the Tacoma door? I see your Daytons have a mount depth of 3.6" and the Cadence speakers im planning on using have a mount depth of 2.6" so theyre a full inch shallower.
If its a clearance issue related to mounting depth and proximity to the window, then im good to go because the 6.5 Pyle speakers that are in there right now have a moubt depth of 2.875" so the Cadence speakers are even shallower that whats in my doors now and I dont have any problems with clearance with my front windows rolled fully down.

My other question, are those Daytons designed to work well in a semi "free air" environment? You mentioned the hit hard and sound good so im assuming so but I believe my main problem is that the Pyle PLG64's ive had in my doors need an rnclosure like I was saying and I believe these Cadence XM84HCi speakers are made to produce some good bass and mid bass with no enclosure mounted in a car door due to their light weight cone and overall design. This is why i believe 6.5 speakers from a component set would work better than my Pyle 6.5's.

Its great to know these Cadence XM84HCi 8" midbass speakers are going to fit in my truck.

If anyone has any knowledge on what makes a door mounted speaker hit good and the whole subject of free air designed speakers or what type of speakers I should look for to mount in my doors to fullfill the lacking low/mid bass and midbass gap I have Id really love to hear it because im kind of lost on this part of things......

 

Most of these types of speakers like to have an IB environment for the best response.
It is relatively easy to achieve to a large degree in our trucks

 

Two rings it to get the driver in the correct position. Partly to make the magnet clear the window. But more importantly to allow the door trim panel to be reinstalled. The speaker can’t be perfectly centered over the 6x9 hole. The second ring must be offset toward the bottom.

 

I was going to install a set of those daytons in my doors but thought the depth was a little to much. I currently have a set of 6x9 speakers with a mounting depth of 3.5" which was really tight and had to modify the door card and make 1.5" speaker adapters to make it work. I am currently working on getting a set of Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8 * inch woofers into the doors. They have a slightly smaller mouting depth of 2.9". I will most likely be making a thread of the audio over haul but right now i am just collecting parts for it.

Link for the speakers: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pps4-8/

Additionally when I did my original install I made sure to cover all of the holes in the door. It might help you to do this so it is less "free airish".

 

Ive been contemplating that since day 1 but the panels theoreticallyact as that dont they? If not, what did you ise to cover them with?

 

I centered mine with my 6.5's and what i did ti alleviate the door panel issue is dove tail the area that was hitting the speakera and tgen removed the tabs so i basically made a circle in the center of the 6x9 oval for the 6.5's in my original post. I only went an inch back where it was closest to hitting the speaker