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08 TRD Sport 4x4 w/ lift question

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by NVR_QUIT, Apr 27, 2008.

  1. Apr 27, 2008 at 4:09 PM
    #1
    NVR_QUIT

    NVR_QUIT [OP] My goodness, my Guinness!

    Joined:
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    Lloyd Christmas
    USA!!!!
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    08' TRD Sport, 11' TRD Sport
    Toytec 3" lift...
    Ok, I've scanned the majority of lift questions, but people fail to add what type of TACO they have, so I'm not sure if what I'm reading even pertains to my truck...:deadhorse:

    I have an 08 TRD Sport 4x4 w/ tow package (not sure if the tow package part matters). I've been a sports car guy my whole life, and dropping was the way to go. Now, I'm lifting...:bananadance:

    1) I do my fair share of going through mud, thick sand, and some fairly rough terrain (that my stock taco has been able to handle). From what I understand, anything above 3" is possibly asking for trouble when it comes to things like that. Is that correct?:help:

    2) When I dropped my 350z, Camaro z28, 300zx... I didn't just use springs. I did it correctly by buying the control arms, springs, etc... As to not cause wear on anything. When it comes to lifting my truck 3" what all do I need to ensure the kit comes with to ensure a PROPER lift?:help:

    3) The 3" lift kits, does this lift everything 3" or what? Basically, I want the truck either level (but 3 inches higher) or +1" in the front, to give it that big aggressive truck look.:help:

    Any help would be appreciated!!!

    P.S. If you have time, what size tires can I go that are big but won't rub?:sorry:
     
  2. Apr 27, 2008 at 9:25 PM
    #2
    tigerfan00

    tigerfan00 BECAUSE INTERNETS!! Staff Member

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    Jeff
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    obviously...changing any of the geometry can cause faster wear on parts...typically on a lift less than 3 inches you wont need to change the control arms...but anything bigger than stock can cause the CVs to wear out faster...

    im not real familiar with drop bracket style lifts but they may help and not stretch the CVs out too much

    front options
    spacers
    drop bracket
    coilovers

    rear options
    blocks
    shackles
    aal

    you can add a diff drop in the front but im not sure what that does...

    in the rear you'll probably need to adjust the brake lines and of course longer shocks
     
  3. Apr 28, 2008 at 4:25 AM
    #3
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Jandy
    Lancaster, PA
    Vehicle:
    2007 4.0L 4x4 TRD Sport Access Cab A
    Advantage Torza top (tri-fold), Husky floor mats, RuffTuff seat covers, C2C hood struts, Homelink mirror, USA Spec PA15-Toy (120gig Classic & 8gig nano), Garmin Nuvi 660, Protecta Bed mat, Pop-n-lock, TSB Springs, Scangauge II, Heated drivers seat, Fumoto drain valve, Aries pushbar, PIAA 540 fog lights, Hood scoop grahics, Flowmaster 50 series dual catback exhaust, RainX Latitude windshield wipers, Husky rear floor liner (ontop of folded down seats). Console Vault.
    **I'm speaking mostly of past experience from owning a 96 - however, the suspension geometry is about the same in the newer trucks**

    3" is the highest you can go with the stock suspension setup (a-arms, CV angles, etc). But even with 3" - it's recommended to get the diff drop (not sure of the details on the kit), but this drops your front differential to get your CV joints (front axle shafts) back to stock angles for less wear & tear. I know a lot of guys buy upper a-arms and I'm not sure this is a *must* for 3" lifts.....

    You can buy bigger lift kits, like the Procomp 4" or 6" which involves adding lots of extras in bracketry & parts -and a lot more expensive.
    http://www.explorerprocomp.com/PDFs/07cat/54-59.pdf

    I'm used to owning a 96 - and I had only 1.5" lift with 32 x 11.50" tires on stock rims. Guys running 33x12.50's needed 2.5" front suspension and atleast 2" body lift. For 35's - the 4-6" s probably the way to go.

    Front lifts:

    Coil spring lifts are the best way to go (lift coils).
    Spacers (within your stock coil & assembly) is another option
    Do not put spacers thicker than 1/4" *above* the coil assembly (you'll have clearance issues with steering knuckles)
    Lots and lots of guys are running the 5100's - adjustable. Do some research on those. They look pretty damn nice but more expensive than other options.

    *** With these front lifts - longer struts are needed to gain the full articulation.

    Rear lifts:
    A replacement leaf pak is the best option
    Add-a-leafs are your next option, however...they can prematurely stress your original leaf pak (as well as sag over time).
    If you do any offroading - I would not go with lift blocks. They can crack and break & cause other damage (seen it many times on the trails).

    *** With these rear lifts - longer shocks are also recommended to gain full articulation. I'd recommend an extended brake line in the rear and depending on your truck & the suspension you buy, and articulation.....longer bumpstops might be needed.

    (sorry, I'll shut up now)
     
  4. Apr 28, 2008 at 10:58 AM
    #4
    NVR_QUIT

    NVR_QUIT [OP] My goodness, my Guinness!

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    Lloyd Christmas
    USA!!!!
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    08' TRD Sport, 11' TRD Sport
    Toytec 3" lift...
    Hey guys... This is such good information! I really appreciate your insight...

    I think 4 might be what I end up getting!

    But I'm still shopping around to make sure. This is invaluble information!
     
  5. May 1, 2008 at 3:10 PM
    #5
    NVR_QUIT

    NVR_QUIT [OP] My goodness, my Guinness!

    Joined:
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    Lloyd Christmas
    USA!!!!
    Vehicle:
    08' TRD Sport, 11' TRD Sport
    Toytec 3" lift...
    bump for any more advice...
     
  6. May 5, 2011 at 8:29 PM
    #6
    soupman77

    soupman77 Well-Known Member

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    08' 4DR Tacoma LB 4x4 TRD Sport
    Revtek 3" Leveling kit with 1.25" in rear. Spidertraxx 1.25" wheel spacers, Grillecraft mesh grill with TRD emblem, Hella 500's mounted behind grille, horn relocation, blacked out lower valence, avid offroad bumper...and so much more to do...
    I have an 08TRD sport that can now run 285/70/17s on OEM rims due to a 3" Revtek front and 1.25" rear leveling kit. I am thinking of using the Spidertrax wheel spacer due to a slight rub when hard turning in reverse or forward.
     
  7. May 5, 2011 at 8:56 PM
    #7
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim Toyota Technician

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    Goodyear DuraTrac 265/70R17, KMC XD Revolvers, ICON's, Firestone Ride Rites, Sockmonkey Decals, 35% tint both front doors, Braided Brake Lines, Removed Charcoal Filter, BHLM, Rear view camera switch, 7-pin in bumper, Lighted 4x4 switch, Rear diff breather, LED bulbs, ImMrYo bracket, mudflap delete, black Al.tube steps
    I just put a lift on my 2011 Double Cab long bed 4x4 TRD Sport, here is everything I bought to do a 3in lift.

    RAD-Flow front coilovers w/ sway bar relocates (used from this site) $650
    Toytec Diff drop kit $28.99
    OME carrier bearing drop $10.99
    Wheelers leaf spring TSB 2in AAL $79.99
    Wheelers extended U-bolts $28.99
    Toytec 3* axle shims $28.99
    Bilstein 5100's for rear $158
    SS extened brake lines all 4 (bought from ongoing group buy on here) $93

    Running stock 17in wheels with Goodyear Dura Trac load c LT265/70R17

    Did alignment myself at work with out adj upper control arms and got:

    TOE 0*
    Camber 1* positive both sides
    Caster 1.1*
    all 4 adjustments on lower control arms were maxed out to get those numbers

    Just bought Light Racing Upper Control Arms from fatbobsgarage.com for cheapest price ($379 plus shipping). Went with them b/c I live in the snowbelt.

    Some say you don't need new upper control arms but I did. Hope this helps.
     
  8. May 5, 2011 at 10:34 PM
    #8
    idgara007

    idgara007 Active Member

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    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/11282-tacoma-lift-faq-guide-read.html

    ^^definitely give this a read over. it helped address a lot of questions I had and gives a wide range of different lift choices.

    1. you say asking for trouble for going above 3"? no, but above 3" requires a drop bracket lift, which like some said is much more expensive, and modifies certain parts that you cannot undo. I would stay at 3" and not go over until you get some more experience and try out 3" first. You can then sell your lift and go bigger later, you might find you like 3". Me personally, just purchased the toytec ultimate lift kit. some people like it, some think its overpriced, but its a solid kit.

    2. Yes you do need to worry about all components, but it depends on what height you go. (This might get repetitive from everyone talking about different lift options) Usually under ~2.5" you will be fine without new upper control arms, but for 2.5 or 3, its recommended.
    With a lift kit, you will most likely change your springs (and shocks so you dont lose travel=optional tho) or get a coilover, which is both put together already. With just the springs and shock you need to get them mounted on your old setup. (unless you D.I.Y. it with a spring compressor). New UCAs are optional, but will make alignment better for higher lifts.
    Some kits will come with a differential drop, but its only about an inch and some say it only changes ur angles by a degree or 2. it might reduce your vibes, YMMV.
    Some kits come with a sway bar relocater that just slightly adjusts the position of the sway bar. Although some people just remove it altogether.

    So theres a lot of freedom to what you want to do. The bare minimum are coils/springs (and shocks if you want) and thats basically it. I highly recommend staying away from spacers. Nobody likes them..

    For the rear, you can use blocks, an add-a-leaf (aal) or a new leaf pack. No-no on the blocks..get an AAL at least, even better a new leaf pack. Its more expensive but can be a much smoother/nicer ride. New rear shocks are recommended with a rear lift though, so keep that in mind.

    One recommendation since you seem like someone who would do some offroading is IVD or icon vehicle dynamics. Check out this kit: http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/05updonahoetacomastagesystems.htm Its expensive tho..but good quality stuff. Also I hear king and fox make some good things as well. OME is highly recommended for a smaller budget.

    3. Not many lift kits raise the front and back BOTH 3". You can get it however. Most kits will 'level' it out by raising the front more than the rear and the truck will sit level because it comes front down from factory. So if you get an AAL in the rear and ~3" up front, it will either level it or maybe slightly nose high. Front and rear lift kits are pretty independent.

    Some choose to lift the front just a bit to level it out, some lift the rear by 1.5 or 2" and lift the front whatever. Normally the rear is 1.5-2" and the front you can have anywhere from 0-3". Its all your preference though.

    TIRES: If you are looking for serious off roading, the largest you should go are 265s. They might have minimal rubbing fixed by minimal trimming, but thats if you are fully articulating your suspension. For most driving, 265s clear everything. However you can fit 285s and sometimes larger on a 3" lift. Ive seen some guys with 295s on 3" lift. With that size tire you will definitely have trimming and a cab chop. Im going with a 285 tire on a 3" lift and wont trim much at all. Im not a big off roader so Ill see the beaches, snow and minor camp trails and such so its not a problem for me. It sounds like you like gettin dirty so Id recommend 265s to prevent rubbing and the like.

    Whew..that was a long one. hopefully it helped somewhat and you didnt fall asleep! :D
     
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