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$10 DIY Power Lock Tailgate

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by MESO, Mar 26, 2016.

  1. May 28, 2020 at 8:35 PM
    #281
    RETR0spec

    RETR0spec Active Member

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    I did this over the weekend but didn’t install the actuator in any kind of box or sound deadening. I’m thinking about finding something to put the actuator in now since it is pretty loud even with my tonneau cover on.
     
    wahoobie likes this.
  2. May 29, 2020 at 5:24 AM
    #282
    auskip07

    auskip07 Well-Known Member

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    i might go in and wrap the box with some sound deadening but its a minor issue.
     
  3. May 30, 2020 at 2:16 PM
    #283
    Tacotoast

    Tacotoast Well-Known Member

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    The factory OEM tailgate lock kit is completely Plug-and-Play (no splicing) and definitely worth the $$$ (PN: PK3B6-35JS0 short wheelbase / PN: PK3B6-35JL0 long wheelbase). It works on my 2018 and has been confirmed to work an all 3rd gens even though Toyota says 2019+. It's an incredibly high-quality kit, includes all the proper grommets, plugs, Zip ties, and metal ties. The wires are all measured the perfect length, and insulated to protect from the exhaust in exactly the right sections. Installation was super smooth and instructions are very clear. The noise is just slightly louder than the doors solenoids as opposed to the pop-n-lock which is LOUD.

    There's no way I'd consider cheaping out on on the $10 pop-lock after installing the OEM kit, and this write-up is testament to how impressed I am with it.

    Instructions

    Original thread
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
  4. May 30, 2020 at 3:58 PM
    #284
    auskip07

    auskip07 Well-Known Member

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    no way would i spend $166 when 12 dollars does the same thing. no adult should be scared of tapping wires
     
    danielgonzzz, Afilao, RobP62 and 3 others like this.
  5. May 30, 2020 at 5:05 PM
    #285
    jaymz25

    jaymz25 Well-Known Member

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    nice write up. will do this for sure
     
  6. May 31, 2020 at 1:04 AM
    #286
    Tacotoast

    Tacotoast Well-Known Member

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    But its not just $12. That only gets you the solenoid. Then youll need the wires, zip ties, wire splices, and you wind up spending more than twice that for a solution that doesnt have the proper gromets to seal the cab and safely rout the wires through the tailgate without being crimped, no exhaust insulation or metal ties that wont melt, and a jerry rigged mounting of the solenoid that is esaily twice to three times louder than the OEM. $166 on Amazon maybe but i got mine from a dealer online for like $118. Worth every penny to not have some janky half-assed setup. And yes you should be scared of tapping wires as it degrades the integrity of the wire being spliced.
     
  7. May 31, 2020 at 4:48 AM
    #287
    wahoobie

    wahoobie Taco Uno

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    Meh, DIY is fun. :bananadance:
     
    Badderup, auskip07 and tonered like this.
  8. May 31, 2020 at 7:40 AM
    #288
    auskip07

    auskip07 Well-Known Member

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    the craziest explanation for spending an extra 150 that ive ever seen.
     
  9. May 31, 2020 at 8:04 AM
    #289
    MESO

    MESO [OP] Major Modder Vendor

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    IMO if you are a DIY’er, you should have plenty of zip ties, wiretaps and hand tools already. The factory is a great option, don’t get me wrong. But is it worth 10x the price of a DIY? That’s where you have to justify. For me... no way. And I bet my “janky Half-assed setup“ is quieter than that your over priced factory one;)
    Still going strong after 2+ years:D
     
    Tacohumper13, RobP62, siKjiTz and 2 others like this.
  10. May 31, 2020 at 8:15 AM
    #290
    Tacotoast

    Tacotoast Well-Known Member

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    All of the pop-n-lock's I've heard have been drastically louder. By all means if you're a DIYer and dont want to spend the money its cool. I just think It's definitely worth the extra $75-$100 and figured someone else would probably think so.
     
  11. Jun 3, 2020 at 11:43 PM
    #291
    siKjiTz

    siKjiTz Well-Known Member

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    Got um done today gang. Took me 2 hours because I wasn’t prepared and was anxious to get it on. If I were to do it again which I am since I bought a 2pk I would get the right screws for the actual size of the actuator hole I drilled mine out slightly to avoid splitting. Happy with the mod and have piece of mind that my tailgate is secure. Thanks @MESO for the post. I ordered my key fob tonight to celebrate. Cheeehu! :woot:
     
    sbx22 and auskip07 like this.
  12. Jun 12, 2020 at 5:36 AM
    #292
    toxic_d

    toxic_d Member

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    I just completed this and am super happy with the results. Into this for approximately $25!

    Big thanks to @MESO for posting this and @Tacotoast for posting the the install instructions Toyota provides as it was my inspiration for the mounting location.

    I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SWLE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as it included everything needed for the install... I did find I needed to add about 5" to the wires but the actuator is quiet and fits well. I had flat aluminum stock from a prior project and picked up some wire loom to protect the wires. I tapped into the passenger side harness in the foot well with t-taps.

    One other thing to note with this is that the actuator end needed to be opened up slightly in order to fit over the pin. It is a good fit and the stiffness of the aluminum stock prevents it from moving and popping off the pin.

     
    Jakedawgy likes this.
  13. Jun 12, 2020 at 6:21 AM
    #293
    RX1cobra

    RX1cobra Well-Known Member

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    Thanks man. I'm with you on this. I'm more than capable of making a kit but after you factor in high quality connectors (at tailgate and in cab), wires, grommets and not cutting the factory wiring this kits worth it to me. I bet the cost isn't that big of a difference all in.

    I've been looking to do this but didn't like the shit bullet connectors (always an issue on my old RC cars :rolleyes:) in the other kits. I got so used to my tailgate locking on my F150 that I miss it on this truck. I'll be doing the Toyota setup at some point.
     
  14. Jun 12, 2020 at 7:34 AM
    #294
    willconltd

    willconltd Well-Known Member

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    I absolutely can't believe someone would post something so timid. Sell your truck and go get a Mercedes convertible since you like working with your credit card. You can buy a proper set of crimpers with dies that match the factory pins for less than $150. Its very easy to do a proper "factory" quality crimp.

    Just admit you are lazy and prefer using your credit card. That's fine with everyone, but in no way is it a better quality installation or degrades the integrity of the wiring.
     
    danielgonzzz and MESO [OP] like this.
  15. Jun 27, 2020 at 10:11 AM
    #295
    RobP62

    RobP62 Bla Bla Bla

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    In other news, I've been called janky and half assed. So I have nothing to lose. :thumbsup:
     
  16. Jun 27, 2020 at 3:42 PM
    #296
    wahoobie

    wahoobie Taco Uno

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    Knock this project out today....using up a few zip ties, wire, and a little solder/heat-shrink (NO TAPS ALLOWED IN THIS GARAGE!). Thanks @MESO and the other contributors to this thread. For me this was an easy project and it was <$15 of material.
     
    RobP62 and MESO [OP] like this.
  17. Jun 28, 2020 at 6:17 AM
    #297
    willconltd

    willconltd Well-Known Member

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    Solder is not used by manufactures because it can't handle vibration and tends to break. A proper crimp is always used in factory wiring for a reason.

    You're probably fine, but if you wanted to do it right then you would pull the pins out of the connector and then re-crimp a new pin with dual wires.

    It will last the rest of your life, might as well get the right tool.

    I have a paladin crimpALL PA8000 which is rather inexpensive, and then you can purchase various dies to crimp just about anything.

    https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tempo-communications/PA8000/PA8000-ND/463651

    https://www.digikey.com/products/en/tools/crimpers-crimp-heads-die-sets/232?k=crimpALL

    There are various manufacturers so you can shop around, then get the right pins and you can crimp your heart out and its much faster and less messy than soldering and shrink wrapping.

    If you do it right, the next person that looks at your work won't know its not factory.
     
    RobP62 and auskip07 like this.
  18. Jun 28, 2020 at 8:16 AM
    #298
    birdbrooks

    birdbrooks Active Member

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    All-factory options at this point.
    Yankee ingenuity (and thriftiness!) is alive and well. Awesome write up on the process. The thing that impressed me the most (as a museum displays fabricator) is the tidy clean seam welds you did on your ABS sound box!
     
  19. Jun 28, 2020 at 8:22 AM
    #299
    MESO

    MESO [OP] Major Modder Vendor

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    Thanks! It’s the only welding I can do:rofl:
     
  20. Jun 28, 2020 at 12:07 PM
    #300
    wahoobie

    wahoobie Taco Uno

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    I would be concerned if I didn't know how to properly solder....but good tips all around.
     

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