$10 DIY Power Lock Tailgate

Tip: Make sure your soldering iron's tip is tinned (clean) and put a drop of solder on it. The solder will help transfer heat to the wire. Once the wire gets hot, add a drop of solder to make a good joint.

 

Honestly, soldering is fine, but then you have to clean the soldered joint, then shrink wrap and all that other jazz and its messy, hard to do upside down in the truck cab while reaching behind the dash, and its just not as good as a proper crimp. Go ahead and solder away this time, but you should order up a ratcheting crimping tool and some pins/plugs to be ready for the next mod!

Granted I come from the BMW OCD community where parts are cheap, available everywhere online, and all the BMW schematics and wiring diagrams are readily available, (At least on the ones from 10+ years ago when they weren't hideously ugly) but with a proper pin remover tool, which a set is like 8 bucks, and the proper pins/plugs you can make everything super clean and factory looking with the same if not less effort than soldering. I generally reserve soldering for circuit boards and micro-controller projects. I have a nice bench solder station that's digitally adjustable to 1000+ degrees, and an assortment of solder. You have to get the right kind of solder for the application etc etc. Its not one size fits all. Soldering can be very complicated and cause issues down the road with corroding wires etc. None of which is really a concern of yours with truck mods.

All manufacturers use properly crimped pins as well as just about every high end shop and badobsessionmotorsports project binky which you should watch if you haven't seen it.

For example, I cut off the Toyota foglight plug and made my own harness with some nice watertight connectors I got from digi-key for a few bucks. I have it so my light bar comes on with the fog lights, IF the light bar switch is on. Its just fun mucking about with cars. Its your truck so mod away and have fun with it. Do I need another set of 12 inch light bars behind the grill or should I get some strobes to go with the dash switch of a girl dancing on a pole? Both. Both is good. Happy modding!

 

I'll keep soldering but to each their own. I've been known to crimp and solder also

 

Knowing/determining the right pins can be half the challenge...but agree if you have them, it makes for a much nicer install.

EDIT: Parts for this mod are on the way, probably install this weekend.

 

I feel you there. I looked everywhere for Toyota parts and guys on the forum straight up said I wasn't going to find them. So I just got all new plugs/pins from digi-key and removed the Toyota stuff. You wouldn't know if I didn't point it out. Its just another wiring plug.

Toyota parts are hella expensive compared to BMW parts and that seems counter intuitive. BMW mods are hella expensive compared to Toyota mods, which is why this damned truck is so addictive.

 

Finally got around to doing this today. I used these parts:

$9 InstallGear IGDLA-2 Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuators 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZBQCR2

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-4-in-x-4-in-x-2-in-PVC-Junction-Box-Gray-E989NNJ-CAR/100404097

$12 TYUMEN 40FT 18 Gauge 2pin 2 Color Red Black Cable Hookup Electrical LED Strips Extension Wire 12V/24V DC Cable, 18AWG Flexible Wire Extension Cord for Ribbon Lamp Tape Lighting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZRV0HV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire taps I had around, and a screw / nuts because it didn't sit low enough with the junction box. As is normal for me it took me more than twice as long as anyone else doing the same thing. Also got some dirt in my contacts, with safety googles on. Yeah, I'm that special

Ran the wire up the passenger side, entered though the grommet by the passenger front door.

Total cost less than $30. Would have been less but I was out of wire. Didn't have any sound deamping on hand and didn't see any that was only for a small amount. Not too loud with the junction box. Love this forum. Thanks OP and everyone who contributed to the thread.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68Cn-XF_Trw&feature=youtu.be

 

I’m doing this install and for some reason the actuator isn’t doing anything... am I tapping the right wires?

 

This video will give you a visual on where to tap in. It's not the only option, but I used this location and it works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehiS8HVTRkc

 

I would assume you tested it with an external 12v source already but if you haven't I would start there. Good luck!

 

Thank you! I’ll give this a try tomorrow. I was trying to tap by the B pillar...

 

I haven’t... I don’t have a way to test it. I did have another actuator and hooked it up to see if the one installed was bad but also didn’t work...

 

I know this is a 3rd gen forum, but has anyone seen this on an early second gen? Looking for a good spot to put the actuator. The inside of the tailgate doesn’t have the same mounting points.

 

A crimp is much more reliable, when the proper pressure is applied it actually forces the metals to bond which is why the military and all other respectable Harness builders do so. Soldering can also change the resistance of a wire and generate excess heat, it’s more difficult to inspect to verify a proper solder, and as said above changes based on the application. You can solder on top of a good crimp if you want to but it’s not recommended. Google solder vs crimp there’s plenty of info.

 

tagging for later- Awesome easy 1st mod! thx

 

Great work. Exactly what I was looking for

 

Finally done! No drill install. First wired mod. Modeled and printed a box that attaches to existing bolts.

 

This guy.. showing us all up

Nice work man, looks factory. I think you won the thread.

 

I did the same power lock DIY as @MESO, but in Canada we have Princess Auto with the power door lock module - https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/single-power-door-lock/A-p8008425e

 

Thank you for the kind words. I can upload the STL file for those interested. I'm not very electrical savy so it took me a bit longer Also thanks to all the people that posted and replied with videos, very helpful!

 

I would love a 3d printer but I don't have space right now. I bet someone would love to have those files sooner or later though. If you are willing, I say post it up. Someone will use it. May even be years from now