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100K, safe to switch to Synthetic?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by sawx75, May 23, 2017.

  1. May 23, 2017 at 3:26 PM
    #1
    sawx75

    sawx75 [OP] Active Member

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    Recently picked up a 2010 and did my first oil change with what the shop recommended. I have run synthetic in all of my previous vehicles with great results. Is it safe to switch to synthetic at this point? I do not mind the added $$$ if it will help, I just want to know if there are any negative effects of changing from regular to synthetic at this point. (the previous owner did not use any synthetic)
     
  2. May 23, 2017 at 3:29 PM
    #2
    orezona

    orezona title unspecified

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    satan's skillet
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    If you have any small oil leaks, they will become big ones if you go to a lower viscosity oil. If your rig has only had conventional, why switch? Just change it every 3-5K miles.
     
  3. May 23, 2017 at 3:30 PM
    #3
    outlawtacoma

    outlawtacoma Well-Known Member

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    It's safe to change to synthetic
     
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  4. May 23, 2017 at 3:32 PM
    #4
    wheeliest

    wheeliest ///////////////////

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    you can change back and forth all you want!
     
  5. May 23, 2017 at 3:32 PM
    #5
    Artruck

    Artruck Well-Known Member

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    You can change. Just use he same weight oil.

    My truck had conventional oil till 40k, then I went with synthetic. No issues.
     
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  6. May 23, 2017 at 3:50 PM
    #6
    2015WhiteOR

    2015WhiteOR Well-Known Member

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    It'll blow your mind that there is a type of oil called 'semi synthetic' that is a mix of conventional and synthetic, and is used in millions of cars everywhere.

    Yeah you're fine.
     
  7. May 23, 2017 at 3:51 PM
    #7
    wheeliest

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    NO SWAYBAR, Spacer lift with dirty4's
    I run rotella T6 in everything
     
  8. May 23, 2017 at 3:53 PM
    #8
    outlawtacoma

    outlawtacoma Well-Known Member

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    My brother runs that in his old 4runner. Thing purrs like a kitten.
     
  9. May 23, 2017 at 3:54 PM
    #9
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    I'd be more worried what the diff oil looks like but I say live on the edge and go for it!
     
  10. May 23, 2017 at 4:00 PM
    #10
    Moogle

    Moogle Dyslexic Stanist

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    I'm still on my first fill of synthetic (Mobil 1 High Mileage) after switching at 120,000 miles. I had no leaks before and no leaks now. Had a sample tested after 5000 and report said it would be good for another 2000, but I'll probably change it earlier since it's my first change on synthetic.
     
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  11. May 23, 2017 at 4:03 PM
    #11
    wheeliest

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    NO SWAYBAR, Spacer lift with dirty4's
    Yeah fk scientist and there "suggestive intelligence" on what its good for.
     
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  12. May 23, 2017 at 4:05 PM
    #12
    Styx586

    Styx586 Well-Known Member

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    Switching back and forth between synthetic and conventional will not cause problems ever, and anyone who says it will doesn't know what they're talking about. The metal in your engine doesn't care if it's synthetic, semi-syn, or conventional. As long as it's clean oil and the proper weight you're good.
     
  13. May 23, 2017 at 6:44 PM
    #13
    cliffyk

    cliffyk Well-Known Member

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    It really doesn't matter, just select a grade that matches your climate (10W-30 for most of the US in the Summer) and number of miles on the vehicle (10W-40 or 20W-50) as the miles rack up (150+k). The various "max" or extended life oils are good for higher mileage vehicles as they contain seal rejuvenating and other additives that can be of some benefit in older high mileage engines.

    Conventional or synthetic doesn't really matter as long as you adjust your change intervals accordingly, and do not race or otherwise abuse the engine (High loads, high temperature operation). 2500 to 3500 miles for dino juice, 4500 to 5000 for synthetic.

    Breakdown of the oil's basic lubricating qualities is really secondary to the build up of combustion by-products that acidify and thin the oil, additive breakdown, oxidation of the oil itself, etc. are the main factors affecting a motor oil's useful life. Synthetic oil withstands some of these condition better than dino, but in normal use for most driver's and service dutys not enough to warrant the added cost (IMHO).

    Use a good quality oil, of a grade proper for your conditions, and keep it clean by changing it each 3000 to 3500 miles--and drive the car for 14 years and 240k miles like my wife's '03 HIghlander--it's been running on 20W-50 MaxLife (Florida) for the last 125k . Her '89 Celica had 445k when we traded it in--it ran 20W-50 for 320k+ miles...

    -------------------------------------------
    My grandfather told me many years ago that "Oil is cheaper than engines", he was right then and it still holds.
     
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  14. May 23, 2017 at 7:02 PM
    #14
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    you must be 50+ years old...... synthetics of the 70's n 80's caused this to happen..... not synthetics of today.


    OP you have no issue switching to synthetic. Run the recommended weight (Xw-30) in your v6 and call it good.

    I personally prefer 0w-30 mobil 1 regardless of climate, as even at 100* ambients, a 0w-30 oil is still thicker than its operating 30 weight at operating temperatures, so 0w will protect your motor better while its warming up. And unless you live in a VERY cold climate (single digits n below) there is no reason to go with a thinner oil (ie 0w-20) as your motor once warmed up will be the same temp regardless of ambient temp (you can thank your cooling system for that)
     
  15. May 23, 2017 at 7:13 PM
    #15
    JeffreyB

    JeffreyB Well-Known Member

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    Eh, even synthetic oil is cheap relative to an engine. I'd rather play the safe side than run it to it's last mile of goodness every change. But I wouldn't get an analysis in the first place unless I thought something was wrong. For that price you may as well just change the oil.
     
  16. May 23, 2017 at 7:15 PM
    #16
    taczilla

    taczilla I intend to live forever; so far.... so good!

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    This is the first 'Can I switch to synthetic oil thread?' ... ever!

    I wish that I had thought of that!
     
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  17. May 23, 2017 at 7:40 PM
    #17
    orezona

    orezona title unspecified

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    Yup, called me out.

    I'll stick with my plan and you stick with yours and at the end of the day, I'll buy a round and you can buy a round.

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. May 23, 2017 at 7:41 PM
    #18
    cliffyk

    cliffyk Well-Known Member

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    Here in Florida I would not put 0W or 5W in anything, except maybe an oil can for the ways on my lathe. We live 1-1/4 miles from the ocean and the coldest it has been here for 10 years was 38° F--that was outdoors, it was 50 in the garage--and it went up to 54 outdoor by noon. We had to endure these "freezing temperatures" for three days before things got back to normal. Today was kind of cool, it started out at 70 and was 94 in mid-afternoon. In this climate there is no need for 0W-nn or 5W-nn grade motor oil, in fact for 90+% of the year it cannot and does not provide optimal startup protection.

    The thin oils (motor and transmission) recommended by automakers are so as to pump up their CAFE numbers, and save them money on CAFE fines; which more than doubled last August. Engine life is a far distant consideration, all they care about is that it last 60 months/60k miles. Toyota makes a pretty good engine, you could probably fill the crankcase with peanut or sesame oil, change it every 3000 miles, and have it last that long...
     
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  19. May 23, 2017 at 7:44 PM
    #19
    Shwaa

    Shwaa Well-Known Member

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    Conventional oil is so underrated. It's the shit, man.
     
  20. May 23, 2017 at 7:47 PM
    #20
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Beef jerky time

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    DO NOT EVER PUT 20W-50 IN YOUR ENGINE EVER! NO MATTER HOW MANY MILES IT HAS!

    This is not a piece of farm equipment. The 4.0 has a variable valve timing system that is very dependant on a good clean supply of THE CORRECT WEIGHT OIL! it says it right on the cap.. it's not a suggestion, it is what the engineers that designed the engine decided to use.. any deviation from what they decided to use in terms of weight, viscosity is a poor idea..
     
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