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135,000 miles needing a new engine Advice

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by rickyg2008, Aug 1, 2019.

  1. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:32 AM
    #1
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry if it’s been talked about before..

    Well unfortunately my beloved 1st gen had an engine melt down yesterday going 70 on the freeway.. My local Toyota dealer diagnosed I need a new engine. Lower end of the engine has a bad knock.

    Never thought that would happen being I searched for a very clean one with a good service history and the v6 is known to be bullet proof.

    Only thing I’ve changed on it recently was I started using amsoil and I was on my 3rd tank of premium fuel. Not sure if that played a factor but worth noting. Oil on the dipstick was good.

    I’ve never had to buy a used engine. What’s y’all take on buying a used one. American vs. JDM. Best warehouse ? Or just junkyard it ?

    D98B444B-3B3B-4D7E-9983-BD9AE58D08FE.jpg
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  2. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:45 AM
    #2
    scotkw

    scotkw Well-Known Member

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    What does melt down mean? overheated? Chugachugged and stopped? Or just started knocking but still runs fine?
     
  3. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:52 AM
    #3
    ForestRunnerFrank99

    ForestRunnerFrank99 Well-Known Member

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    First off I believe our engines were designed to run off lower grade fuel. Running premium wont hurt anything but you aren't benefiting much from it. What weight oil were you using in the engine? Amsoil shouldn't have hurt anything unless you were using the wrong type.

    As bullet proof as these engines are and as much as you think you bought a clean car, you never know what the previous owner threw into it or whether it was just a lemon from the factory. Personally I cant believe it died at 135k without it having some serious hidden issues before.

    And as for your engine, you have a few options:
    1. Rebuild what you have. Chances are it is just a main bearing causing the knocking (though without hearing it this is just a guess).
    2. Buy used from a junkyard. Many people do this but of course there is a risk involved with purchasing an engine with unknown history. If you can find one from an accident the engine will most likely be fine (because it was obviously driving before it got hit) but you still wont be 100% sure. If you go this route I would highly recommend getting it thoroughly inspected or rebuilt before installing.
    3. Order one from a warehouse. I can't recommend any but maybe someone here can. I would just shop around, call people, read reviews, and see what you can find.
     
  4. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:52 AM
    #4
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry. Better clarifying it sounds like it threw a rod. Loud knocking sound coming from the engine like if something is hitting . Loss of power and a check engine light came on.
     
  5. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:08 AM
    #5
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was running 5w-30 what the Manuel recommended. I don’t think premium had anything to do with it like you were saying. Just bad luck.

    The tech said it was the bearing. So I’ll weigh my options. I don’t mind spending money on the right solution sounds like it just takes research
     
    doublethebass likes this.
  6. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:12 AM
    #6
    ForestRunnerFrank99

    ForestRunnerFrank99 Well-Known Member

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    Okay oil shouldn't be a problem unless it was low or overheating. I don't think fuel had anything to do with it, just save your $$ and get 89 Octane.

    Bearings are pretty easy to replace (once the engine is out that is) and fairly cheap but it is the cleaning and inspection of the rest of the engine that can be costly and time consuming. You don't want those metal shavings clogging up anything.
     
    rickyg2008 [OP] likes this.
  7. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:18 AM
    #7
    dfulks

    dfulks Well-Known Member

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    I have had a 3.0, 3.4, and now 4.0. Rebuilt the 3.0 and 3.4 both, if you can get a junkyard motor and have the time to rebuild it then I would go that route, or snag a JDM motor. I always ran 10-30w in my 3.0 and 3.4 being in the north valley of California (hot summers). Not knowing what the internals look like I would recommend a full rebuild or new engine suspecting that the rod may have scarred up the inside. The 3.4 is a great motor, but is not indestructible... no motor is. Best of luck with the ventures!

    JDM motors are cheap on eBay.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-2004-...-5VZ-FE-5VZFE-5VZ/283179934058?epid=654499196
     
  8. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:24 AM
    #8
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help guys.

    Horrible feeling knowing your engine sounds lifeless lol. Especially with such a good reputation
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  9. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:27 AM
    #9
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Well-Known Member

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    Has the motor been disassembled and the diagnosis confirmed yet?

    99% you're going to need to pull the motor, so you might as well start there.
     
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  10. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:34 AM
    #10
    rtzx9r

    rtzx9r Well-Known Member

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    Pull the motor and the oil pan. You can then pull bearing caps and see whats going on. If you are handy enough to do this, you can do a rebuild or a get a reman engine.

    If the bearings are bad, likely just need a full disassembly, cleaning, and oversized bearings and journals on the crank ground down a size.
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  11. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:56 AM
    #11
    OneWheelPeel

    OneWheelPeel Well-Known Member

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    This ^^

    Another good resource to find local used engines. Sometimes they will deliver to the shop for free too: http://www.car-part.com/
     
    Hamer95USA likes this.
  12. Aug 1, 2019 at 10:26 AM
    #12
    hubcapsc

    hubcapsc Un-Known Stranger

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    A JASPER engine is another option... one nearby shop that I've used and liked
    does Jasper engines (that's really all I know about them...)

    https://www.jasperengines.com/

    -Mike
     
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  13. Aug 1, 2019 at 10:29 AM
    #13
    scotkw

    scotkw Well-Known Member

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    Check engine wouldn't have come on if bearing knock came from just wear and tear. Something major happened that changed the combustion chamber pressure and thus changed emissions output. Which then triggered the check engine light.
    If its a lower end knock, that is just a byproduct of the root issue. if you where doing 7k rpm towing a boat and then the knock started, that would be different story and possibly just a bearing. But check engine and knock at same time at highway speeds. Something else has caused one piston to stop short and the crank to say "wanna bet".
     
    PvilleJohn likes this.
  14. Aug 1, 2019 at 10:43 AM
    #14
    Russianman92

    Russianman92 Well-Known Member

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    I purchased a JDM and just had to transfer intake manifold and a few other items. While I was there replaced timing, plugs, injectors, etc...Been running great! 50k miles in! I think I paid around 1300-1500 for it.
     
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  15. Aug 1, 2019 at 2:50 PM
    #15
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    I am a JDM fan BUT before I install the new replacement motor I take off a rod and main cap and inspect the bearing/journal. Like stated above $1200 to $1500 plus maybe another $300 in belts, hoses etc or all the little stuff you discover when you have it apart.

    If you decide that this is too much of a project for you either $ wise or time wise, shoot me a private message and maybe we could make a deal on the truck. I am always in the market for yet another project truck.
     
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  16. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:43 PM
    #16
    rickyg2008

    rickyg2008 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the insight. Can’t decide which option is best I’ll have to research more.

    Yotashop sells really good remanufactured 5vs but their pricey .
     
  17. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:47 PM
    #17
    cedarpangolin

    cedarpangolin So country I bleed cedar sap.

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    If its what i think it is, which is a spun rod bearing due to improper oil level/pressure/distribution in the block, depending how severe, you may be able to dig in and replace the rods and bearings yourself for just a few hundred bucks. DIY would take at least six hours, assuming you have a engine hoist, or easy access to the bottom of the block on a lift etc, and all the proper tools. Paying a very reasonable shop would run just under 1k is my guess. I had this done on a 2.3 Ford Fusion that spund a rod bearing at 89,000 miles and they said i needed a whole block. Put the doctor earplugs to it and heard where the knock was, opened it up, and bam, rod bearing. I sold it after the repair and the new owner is a young kid whos put almost 60k on it since then with no issues.

    Moral of the rant, definitely have someone mechanically trustworthy take a look and see if they can open it up and replace the rods and bearings, and if so, weigh that option against getting a whole new engine installed for about 2 grand. Cost of engine is just under a grand including shipping, labor is gonna be close to another grand. All in all, i would hope the repair is an easier and cheaper option for you! Good luck!
     
    cruiserguy and rickyg2008 [OP] like this.
  18. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:49 PM
    #18
    cedarpangolin

    cedarpangolin So country I bleed cedar sap.

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    The jeep's AMC 4.0 is as bulletproof as they come. If i ever need to fit a different engine into my truck it will be a 4.0
     
  19. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:58 PM
    #19
    PvilleJohn

    PvilleJohn #NORM Instagram @Jczarnick

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    LS SWAP this biatch! :cool:


    You’re welcome. :rofl:
     
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  20. Aug 1, 2019 at 9:32 PM
    #20
    dfulks

    dfulks Well-Known Member

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    I meant currently a 4.0 Toyota, had a 4.0 in my old jeep as well. The AMC 4.0 was great, but power and efficiency were not in the cards for it.
     

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