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17mm Flex Head Flare Wrench on Steering Rack

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by skeezix, May 31, 2020.

  1. May 31, 2020 at 3:14 PM
    #1
    skeezix

    skeezix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    In Timmah's video that shows how to replace the steering rack, he uses a 17mm flex head flare nut wrench to loosen/remove the two fluid lines from the rack. I don't have this wrench and I was wondering if the rack could be moved far enough back to allow a straight 17mm flare wrench to be used. Replacing the rack is probably going to be the last job I will be doing myself on my truck and the cost of a flex head 17mm flare wrench is going to be an issue.
     
  2. May 31, 2020 at 3:46 PM
    #2
    lukester78

    lukester78 Well-Known Member

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    I had enough wiggle room, didn’t need a flex head.
     
    phoenix ray likes this.
  3. May 31, 2020 at 5:49 PM
    #3
    04TRDV6

    04TRDV6 Well-Known Member

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    Same here. Was able to do it without a flex head.
     
    phoenix ray likes this.
  4. May 31, 2020 at 5:52 PM
    #4
    BamaTaco04

    BamaTaco04 Well-Known Member

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    You'll be able to do it without a flex head. Although a flex head makes it easier.
     
    Wyoming09 likes this.
  5. Jun 1, 2020 at 12:29 PM
    #5
    skeezix

    skeezix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @04TRDV6
    @BamaTaco04
    Ahh yes! That's what I wanted to hear! :bananadance:

    One more question: The last time I removed a tie rod end I used one of the U-shaped removers that I bought at OReilly. I couldn't get the thing to seat correctly because of the brake shield so I took it back for a return (and then used another method). When you removed your tie rod ends, did you use the OTC tool or one of the cheaper ones from the local car parts store?

    OTC Tool:
    Ball Joint Separator 1.jpg

    Some of the cheaper ones:

    Harbor Freight Ball Joint Separator 200x200.jpg
    That one ^^ didn't work. It got the ball joint separated but broke the ball joint stud.

    Ball Joint Separator 3.jpg

    This one I could not fit well enough to get the pusher bolt centered over the ball joint bolt. ​
     
  6. Jun 1, 2020 at 12:36 PM
    #6
    BamaTaco04

    BamaTaco04 Well-Known Member

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    Don't know what to tell you... I just changed my outers 2 weeks ago with a puller like the bottom pic. $12 At harbor freight... Didn't have a problem
     
  7. Jun 1, 2020 at 12:38 PM
    #7
    Captain Magma

    Captain Magma Well-Known Member

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    I've used that OTC tool for tie rods, upper, and lower bj and it is so much nicer than the classic square pitman pullers. I bought this kit off Amazon that had the same basic pullers as the otc kit

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A0AWELW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
  8. Jun 1, 2020 at 12:44 PM
    #8
    Wulf

    Wulf Die Historic - Live Again

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    Looks like it's got enough contact to pop it loose even though it's not centered
     
  9. Jun 1, 2020 at 12:46 PM
    #9
    BamaTaco04

    BamaTaco04 Well-Known Member

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    Just push it hard onto the tie rod end, let the Brake shield bend a little. Then just bend it back when you've installed the new tie rod end
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  10. Jun 1, 2020 at 4:06 PM
    #10
    04TRDV6

    04TRDV6 Well-Known Member

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    I used the OTC kit. And have used it multiple times since on various vehicles. But then I was (and still am) using DIY repairs to justify a tool addiction.
     
  11. Jun 1, 2020 at 4:09 PM
    #11
    eon_blue

    eon_blue 8" third member

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    The Pitman puller in the last pic will still work, doesn't have to be 100% centered over the bolt. Start tightening it down and as long as it's on there well enough not to slip off, it'll pop the ball joint out
     
  12. Jun 1, 2020 at 6:15 PM
    #12
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    You might try that puller with the nut screwed partially on and the puller tip might seat inside the nut.
     
    skeezix [OP] likes this.
  13. Jun 2, 2020 at 8:38 AM
    #13
    skeezix

    skeezix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes, that's a good idea. I'll give it a try.
     
  14. Jun 3, 2020 at 7:00 AM
    #14
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    the puller is used to put downward pressure on the taper of the stud, the impact from the hammer on the side of the joint is what frees it.

    In addition, leave the nut on the joint for 2 reasons... if you mar the threads so bad in a failed attempt to remove the joint you can retighten the nut and still drive until you can make a second attempt or take it somewhere. The second reason is that if the tapered joint assembly is attached to heavy bit, it will fall and could drop on your foot, toe, leg etc.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2020
    cruiserguy likes this.
  15. Jun 5, 2020 at 8:43 AM
    #15
    skeezix

    skeezix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I found a reputable shop (at least I think it's reputable - been in business for over 30 years) that will install my rack for $225. Can't go wrong there. By the time I shop for tools, wait for delivery, pay tax, etc. I'm already
    $75-$100 into the project and haven't even turned a bolt yet. Not to mention my time...
     
    SouthernYoder likes this.

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