1995-2004 3.4L V6 fabricated solid motor mounts for sale

Will these transmit a lot of engine noise into the cab since they’re a solid mount?

 

Does the bolt go through a steel or urethane bushing between the two pieces of the mount?

 

Urethane.

 

Engine vibration increase is minimal, most customers hardly notice anything. Off road tires or a throaty exhaust adds more vibration in my opinion. The extra side benefit is once your engine isn't twisting or flopping around anymore when you hit the gas, that energy is transferred much more efficiently down the drivetrain to the wheels. There is, in my opinion, a noticeable acceleration increase due to less power loss through the drivetrain.

 

Its a polyurethane bushing. Has a vibration cancelling effect like rubber but is more firm and doesn't allow for flex.

 

I need these

 

Hey OP, just wondering if you make a mount for the 2.7L? My sense based on this thread is that you do not, but wanted to confirm.

Thanks!

 

No nothing for 2.7, I just havnt seen the demand and quite honestly people aren't breaking the stock ones. Maybe at some point but as business goes I'm focusing more on the newer v6 and v8 engines.

 

Thanks for the info. Best of luck with business in these wild times.

 

I am interested

 

Hit up Solid Offroad on Instagram - he might see your message sooner

https://instagram.com/solid_offroad?igshid=151qnln4wx07n

 

I try to check back here but I get soo wrapped up on Instagram I forget sometimes haha!

IG is definitely a faster way to contact me tho. FYI I have 3 kits in stock of 3.4V6 mounts

 

Anybody have a write up for swapping motor mounts? I was looking at mine and it looks like it would be a huge PITA and would require a flex head wrench.

 

Seeing as I'm in the middle of this.
I believe it would be a million times easier if i didn't have coil bucket braces .
I just unbolted the mounts from the engine block and the frame pedestal.no flex head wrenches just a bunch of extensions.
drivers side requires removing the oil filter . I was able to get 2 of the bolts through the fender gap and 1 from underneath beacouse of a hose. Required a ratcheting wrench.
Passenger side was easier to get to but requires removing the ac pump to lossen the bracket to take the mount off the block.
So far putting the new mounts in has just been the reversal. I haven't finished yet because i have the front diff out and i have the drivers side jacked up.
Ive been able to do it all myself but i think getting the mount to the pedestal brackets to line up is going to take a second pair of hand to get it lined up right.

 

I had my donor engine in and out of the engine bay 4+ times when realizing there’s a difference with early cast motor mount brackets and later stamped ones, that the TG bombproof solid mounts don’t work with the cast brackets, etc. before getting these from Bonzen. Basically if you have an engine hoist you’ll be able to take the weight off the motor mounts and wiggle everything and whack stuff with a mallet to the point where your 4 motor mount perch bolts will be able to slide in and out and possibly thread on by hand and use a couple open ended wrenches to torque down. By my last few times it was pretty simple.

 

Set of 3.4 mounts i just did along with a set of the big boy 5.7 mounts

 

Have these been tested for strength? Are they using the same grade hardware as OEM?

 

You reuse all the OEM hardware. The OEM brackets are boxed in making them stronger. The only added hardware is that grade 8 bolt going through the mount and is stronger than the original bolt that holds the marshmallow.

This is the truck Ryan built using these way back when finding out stock motor mounts let the engine vibrate too much in high speed / jumping stuff in the desert:

 

Tested for strength as in 17+ years of Offroad racing and abuse. 200+ sets sold and ive had to repair 2-3 when a customer literally crashed their truck and did severe frame damage.

OE bolts on the frame side and engine side are reused. No point to upgrade to a grade 9 or 12 point aircraft fastener.

 

The first trip out with the truck long traveled, the OE mounts broke, causing:

Engine to move soo much that the Fan impacted the radiator.

Engine to move soo much that the oil pan hit the front differential and blew a hole in it.

Engine to move soo much that the frame perch plates and actual frame cracked and deformed.

Engine to move soo much that the transmission housing mount was ripped outta the housing, breaking the housing.

Engine to move soo much that the exhaust at the collectors ripped in half.

Engine to move soo much that the motor slammed upward into the hood, denting bd bowing the hood.

And all that happened before the truck was even jumped like in the posted picture. The repair bill was around $2,700. $400 for a set of these motor mounts and you will not have any of those problems.