1998 Tacoma 5.3L Vortec (LS) Engine Swap Thread

And for an update, I was able adapt the GM AC compressor to the stock Toyota AC components via homemade AC lines. Finally had AC this summer! Let me pull together the information.

 

For further reference... I found a guy on YT that did a 6.0 swap in a 5 lug. Been watching his build. I like a lot of what he is doing ( well... did). Figured I'd share it here for the future curious builder.

 

So I made the mistake of not changing the rear main seal when I first did the swap. These engines are almost guaranteed to leak oil there and mine was leaking pretty bad. So I pulled the engine a year ago to fix that leak, install an AC compressor, and I was also going to switch to a manual NV3500 transmission.

 

How do you like the NV3500? I had entertained the idia due to the cost but it isn't rated very high for how much torque it can handle and the LM7 with a cam would well exceed that.

 

Well I ended up keeping the 4L60e auto transmission after learning I would need an even longer drive shaft to make the NV3500 work. A two piece drive shaft would have been required. I wanted to get back to driving so a manual transmission will have to wait. I will likely go with a TKX but that will likely need a two piece drive shaft as well.

 

I've got my eyes set on the TKX as well as it's rated to 600 ft-lbs, but hadn't gotten far enough to know driveshaft plans. Is it too far of a run from the trans to the diff?

 

The AC compressor I went with was a Denso part #471-0315. I bought a used AC bracket off Ebay.

 

No issues with fitment, the compressor clears the frame rail. I also put on a new water pump at this time. Not shown, don't forget the compressor belt and it's also a good idea to change the idler pulley bearing on the used bracket.

 

The cam position sensor o-ring was also replaced as it looked wet there. Purchased off ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1742557646...vlOaFSARGK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Compressor adapter fittings were used to convert to #8AN for the discharge side and #10AN for the suction side on the compressor. From ebay again: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3837698959...vlOaFSARGK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

For the suction hose side, the stock Toyota connection at the firewall is reused. We just need to crimp a straight #10AN fitting to the other end of the hose to connect to the compressor. I purchased the fitting from Ebay:https://www.ebay.com/itm/3837698959...vlOaFSARGK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

I used a hand operated hydraulic crimper to make the connection. This kit will cover crimping both hoses: https://www.vevor.com/pipe-wrench-c...ings-ferrules-crimping-set-a-c-p_010668597221

 

Finished suction hose installed.

 

For the discharge hose side, the stock Toyota connection at the condenser is reused. A 90 degree #8AN fitting is crimped to the other end of the hose to connect to the compressor. Clocking of the fitting is important so be sure to test fitment before crimping. The reduced barrier hose was a tight fit, I had to shave some rubber off to get the fitting on. I purchased the fitting from you know where.

 

Here is the finished discharge hose.

 

Here is where the discharge hose connects to the condenser. The other end of course connects to the compressor.

 

The electric radiator fan used to be mounted where the condenser is located. So it had to be moved to in front of the condenser. I cut center support out and now the fan body functions as the center support. The ECT switch to the left of the steering wheel was wired to manually turn on the fan whenever the AC is on. A new receiver drier was installed, everything else from the stock Tacoma AC was reused. New o-rings used throughout, don't forget the Nylog blue lube.



The front bumper and grille required a little surgery to fit over the electric fan motor housing. I'm not too happy with the sloppy cutout so I have plans to make a custom cover in the future.

 

OK now for wiring which is fairly simple. The Tacoma AC amplifier is under the glove box. Find the Black Yellow (B-Y) wire and splice a wire to run to the compressor. This wire will turn the compressor off and on, controlled by the AC amplifier. Tacoma wiring diagram also attached. I no longer have the Toyota ECM but it seems to not be necessary for the AC to work. I believe the ECM slightly increases the engine RPM when the compressor turns on. I don't have the GM computer in the loop either.

 

I cut the GM compressor connector off the wiring harness and connected the Toyota B-Y wire to the Black wire below. The green wire is connected to ground. And that's it for wiring! The circuit has a stock fuse protecting it.

 

I picked up an AC manifold gauge set from Harbor Freight, PAG oil with UV dye, two cans of refrigerant, and can tap. This thread was helpful at this point:https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-a-c-system-replacement-how-to-seized-compressor.293204/

I rented a vacuum pump from Autozone and pulled a vacuum on the system. I was only able to get to 25 inHg but it held just fine with the vacuum off.

The new refrigerant cans are self sealing, nothing to puncture. So you don't have to back the tap off once you "puncture" the can or worry about any leftover refrigerant escaping the can.