1999 Tacoma SR5 TRD Imperial Jade Build, Sweat and Tears

Enjoyed this thread thoroughly, took my time reading it and just finished it. Just curious if you’ve named the truck? Unless i missed that? Jade?

 

Thank you, much appreciated. Its been an adventure. Not the fanciest truck with crazy parts but it gets the job done. No name at all.

 

Well, great timing to find my top tank is cracked before a big drive. I think JB weld should fix it.

 

Sanded it down



Got a few different things. I was worried to use the actual radiator repair since its cracked across the ribs. It supposed to be used with a fiberglass sheet and I feel like I might have a hard time sealing it. I went with the water weld even though its only rated to 250f. Not sure why I bought to long cure time regular jb weld, I wasnt paying attention.


Drilled holes on each side of the cracks.



Looks terrible, but I need to make sure it seals. For something that says it holds on to wet objects or can be applied underwater. Theres no way. It did not want to stick and it really made a mess. I honestly should of tried the 2 part epoxy type that come in the syringe type packaging. I may buy one just to have on hand in case this thing pops off.

 

FML, it didnt last 5 min of idling. If theres anyone out there reading this thinking about using the water weld dont. I sanded it, whipped it clean and mixed well, I let it cure for 2 hours, it said 1 hour was cure time and as soon as the engine got hot the puddy started to re soften. As soon as I say it leak I just scrapped it off in case I need to try a different repair.

I think the patch is a dumb idea but I dont have time to wait for a new Rad. I seen one in the junk yard that a few days ago in a 4 runner, maybe Ill go check and see if its still there. I think it was an auto though which I think it has auto trans lines running to it. I wonder if I can just cap them off for now. Not sure if thats the only difference though.

Kinda out of focus.

 

Im an idiot. Idk why I didnt use the plastic tank and radiator repair kit from above in the first place. Its exactly what I was wanting. Idk why I thought I needed to use the fiberglass sheet, I assume thats for big gapping repairs where you need to span a gap.

I let everything cool down then drained some fluid out so it was lower than the crack.

I guess we'll see what happens, my brain is misfiring bad today, the packet for the mix was meant to be mixed in the bag, you break the center seal then mix it around with your fingers then tear the bag and pour out. I ended up ripping the bag and pouring one part out before realizing it, so the mix might be off, I did my best to mix as good as possible knowing I messed up. I used brake clean right before applying to help. As soon as this stuff started to kick off it turned into very hard plastic. Exactly what I was hoping for. I even applied way past the crack just to cover my ass

Says cures in 20min so Im gonna let it go for 40min, then take it for a drive and see what happens. If it seems fine I might do a couple hour drive tomorrow just to know for sure.

 

What the actual f. This is supposed to be for radiators. As soon as it started to get hot it went from being really hard to turning really soft. I dont get it.

*edit* I guess some people are saying to let to dry for 4 hours. Maybe Ill get another kit tomorrow and try one last time.

 

Anyone have an idea of what brand radiator to get and if one can be picked up in LA? Worst case I think Im gonna go to the junkyard and see if I can find one thats in decent condition. I gotta get this thing going asap.

Just checked dealer pricing on OEM and its like high $300s

 

Was a bust at the junkyard, they just got rid of the 4 runner that had the rad still left in it. There was 3 more but the rad was gone in all of them.





Just as a side note I wonder how hard it would be to convert my tacoma to the 4 runner style hand brake and console.



Bought another rad repair kit. Gonna let it set for 4 hours to see if that helps. Sanded it super well, mixed the correctly this time and mixed really well, and used a heavy amount of brake clean 5 seconds before applying. Ill update what happens. Hope this works, if not Im screwed. Absolute worst case Ill see if I can pop it off and get a plastic welding kit. Kinda wasting way more money than it would take to just buy a new rad. Im just in a time crunch.

 

Didnt have enough time to cut my own acrylic. Had someone cut some pieces to my templates. Who knows if this is really gonna do anything or if its a waste, but its just for fun.

Went with clear on everything so it doesnt stick out and look weird.



Need to figure out a way to attach these to the rims. I dont trust zip ties to not break. I think im going to use metal bailing wire. Im sure a bracket
would be nice I just dont have the time and IDK if this is even going to work.





For the diesel heater. Need to find some rubber door seal now.



Got the top rear fins on.





Going for something like this, to break the air off the back and lower the suction. I still need to do the top spoiler that slopes down a little. No time for it right now, that one is going to be tricky to fab right.

 

Waited for it to cure


Took a piece from the left over and it was very hard, it wouldnt bend at all just shattered.


Took a piece and heated it up with a propane torch and it immediately got soft. Absolutely insane. This kit is a lie.


Barley got hot and leaked. I dont understand, they stole $40 from me for 2 of these kits that cant even handle a little bit of heat.


Legit peeled off like its the the red wax on barbell cheese. How are they legally allowed to say this is radiators. Theres no way.

 

Decided to get out the soldering iron.


Nope!

 

Tried again, ran to harbor freight for a plastic welder.





NOPE!!



I cant believe this is real. I need to get into selling products that dont work. Now I need to find a rad.

 

Went to LQK Monrovia looking for a rad, they had 6 4runners.

This one was missing the rad.



The rad on this one was laying on the ground. It was a Koyo.



Then I seen this. I was still thinking taking it and repairing the over flow spout since its not underpressue. I carried it around just incase.



For some reason this guy thought I didn't know what I was doing and took my tools and removed the radiator for me. It was a brand new Koyo but since its out of a 4 cylinder it the short core.




Next one.



Found a nice Koyo that looked pretty new.



Pulled it then found this. WTF.



Next one.


Was in good condition. There was no branding.


Oh course the drain plug was missing.


Tired at least 5 different plugs and nothing fit. Ending up taking this one but long story short I screwed myself. I cant find a drain plug that fits. Im gonna return it.


Aftermath


As a sidenote this LQK kinda sucks, they dont drain the vehicles.

 

I got tired of messing around wasting my time and money. I caved and over paid for a Denso from Napa, they had 1 in stock that they had to me in a hour. It was like $230, which is crazy, because rockauto is about $130 but I need it right away. I guess the good thing about over paying is the Denso has a lifetime warranty through Napa. Worst case I can replace it anywhere in the country. They were also able to get the Koyo and I was leaning to the Koyo but it was only a 1 year warranty. Ill post more photos tomorrow. I hope my shroud is gonna fit since the Denso is a little taller than my manual stock rad. Ill make it fit either way though, I just want less stuff to do and get on the road.

Some bonus junkyard content.

Had no idea Samsonite made floor mats.

 

What an absolute ass bleeding nightmare this whole thing was.

Heres the Denso.


Made in Taiwan




Tired to pull it from here and leave the brackets. Nope, wouldnt come out.


Was annoying I had to pull the hook and rings and it didnt work out.



Super annoying I had to pull the grill and the bumper to get to the bolts.


Extra super duper annoying I had to drop the skid because the lower hose is now on the short side because this core is a lot taller. I just stretched it.
I think the Denso is a bad choice for me. The 22 3/4 size it too big, it fits but its very close to the skid plate. It if gets dented its gonna break the weak ass plastic. There was a Koyo that said it was a base model, but it was the same exact size as my original, 20 3/4. I honestly would of preferred that one since I do off road. Also if it matters to anyone the shroud fit fine, no mods.


Heres the measurement of the original factory manual rad.



Finished.


As a side note these shroud tabs are cheap as hell and sucks to try and line up.

 

New blades for the drive


Made some temp aluminum tabs to hold the rear fins that go over the tail lights. Rushing to get it done. I used strong double sided tape.







Super over the bent tail gate. Im tired of losing stuff out the over 1 inch gap. I ended up losing one of my aero pieces and the template for it. Pushed hard on the tail gate and bent it back some but it still not great. Ill take it off later and bend it back with ratchet straps and wood.

 

Aero shot in the day (good light). I actually might feel a difference and the scan gauge is showing a slight change. It feels like it drives around 50mph and up with a slight less pedal input and that even with the box on top. I guess when I do my drive across the country Ill be able to sus it out. I would of like to of got the top spoiler on but oh well. Gonna add the wheel covers tomorrow. Im sure a front air dam would also help, Ill revisit that later.



Returned the Rad to LQK, they cried about me having a camera in there. Like a cell phone is any different. Also found a pretty new small battery that goes for $220 for $40 so I picked it up. I might find somewhere to tuck it and have a type of shore power, when Im parked. Just need to figure out how to wire so it chargers off the alternator but doesnt draw off the main. Or maybe ill do some sort of solar setup and use a switch to the main to help if my battery ever dies.







If anyone is around LQK sunvalley ca, theres a lady out front that sells used tools. I always score a bunch of old craftsman sockets, which are my favorite tools to use. This go around there was a 1 inch Snap on socket. The haul was $12. Pretty crazy.


Too shallow depth of field, out of focus.

 

Also need to fix this. So tired of stuff falling out the door when I open it, have easily broken at least 10 water, messed up my camera and whatever else has fallen out and broken. Gonna need to make some sort of net.

 

Drilled the holes for the wheel covers, one of them ended up breaking. Did a quick sloppy job on bonding it back. Used 30lb satinless bailing wire to attach it to 3 of the spokes, made the holes a little oversized to get a tiny bit of air flow. Did a test drive on the freeway at 80 for a bit, they stayed tight. Not sure if its helping, butt dyno is feeling like it might be hurting. Gonna be hard to tell driving across the country because Im gonna be weight down and I have no average to go off of.