1999 Tacoma SR5 TRD Imperial Jade Build, Sweat and Tears

Just put in the 4Runner ignition ring light and discovered everyone is wiring it in for no reason, the factory connector is already under the steering column. All you have to do is plug it in!




Works just like its supposed to with the dome light and I didn't have to do anything but just plug it in.

 

Installed the KC's 2" C2 area flood lights as back ups. Pretty sure this is overkill for everyday. Def gonna melt the tits right off of people. I wired them into the back ups but I think Im going to change this to a switch.

Also I don't like the 6500 color temp. Just looks off to me. Eventually Ill put a film over them to match the color of the regular back ups.

 

Went back to pep boys where I got the Moog dust boots, inner and outer tie rods and made them price match Amazon. Even with their whole 25% off hard parts they still had to give me $100 back. Crazy.

Pulled all the plugs, gapped them and added dielectric grease. Looks like the previous owner was lazy and didn't change the driver side plugs. They were uneven compared to the passenger side. The drivers side went up to 55+ on the gap and looked pretty worn. I gapped them all down to 40 where the gap tool hits so its more like 44 which is what stock is. Should be fine for a bit now. Pulls a lot better from 1-2k rpm.

 

FML

This airbag light shit is annoying. So last night when I pulled the center out to put in the key ring light the air bag light came back on. I pulled the lower part reset the 3 plugs and put it back last night and it went out.

So I decided to clean the battery terminals today because they were pretty bad. Used Evian water for the more base PH since I didn't have baking soda. Actually worked good.









Welp, so after I connected the battery back the air bag light was on again!

I removed the center part again in the truck, unplugged the 3 connectors, it went out. Went to put the center piece back and it came back on. Did this 3 times and now its just on. I can't believe those stupid connectors are that sensitive.

Now the truck is sitting with everything unplugged hoping it will reset, but I doubt it. What a joke. Im wasting so much time chasing the same damn thing. Not even sure what the next step would be. I jumped the diagnostic under the hood and the srs/airbag light blinks 53 54 74. It could be from where I wasn't paying attention and messed with the 3 plugs with the key on.

 

fuck.. well I got it fixed.

Decided to turn the passenger airbag off with the key just to see what would happen. The key area lit up and said off. Started the truck and the airbag light went off. Thought, well damn it must be up here. Pulled the whole center out, reset the connectors where the key on/off is for the passenger air bag and it went out. Thank god.

In the mist of all this I took the scan gauge out of my other car and put it in the truck to see if any codes were getting thrown. I noticed the air intake temp of this truck seems pretty damn high. Is that common with these? Its 80 degrees out (f) but the air intake is 98-100. Seems way to high to me. My BMW is usually 8-10 degrees over ambient temps. Does anyone know where the air temp sensor is located in the intake stream?

Next mod, bring down the intake air temp.

 

Just went for a drive. Its 68-70 out and the intake temps wouldn't go below 90. Something is def wrong. I got out and touched the MAF and it was barley warm.

I wonder if spray it out with MAF spray if that will help. Either way Im gonna attempt to fix it.

 

Great build thread!!! Curious on the small black grounding wire from your battery to the quarter panel. I have the same type wire and wondered what the heck it would be for. The car should already be fully grounded with the main black wire - why this thinner ground wire?

 

Thanks. I have no idea. I was wondering the same thing. IDK if the people that put the alarm did it or what.

 

Pulled the MAF and hit it with some CRC MAF cleaner. It didn't look too bad on the temp sensor, just slightly dirty. And you can't even see where the MAF wires are at. I just sprayed it really well.

Drove it around the block after and it seemed better for sure. On start up it took less cranks of the engine. Seems to runs smooth and the on and off throttle response feels sharper.




Not sure if this is the stock one. Im guessing its not. Ill check the part numbers.






As far as the high IAT (intake air temps) go, its no wonder its high and climbs fast at stops. The exhaust manifold is directly under the whole intake piping with an open pathway for the heat to rise up and hit it. When I get some time Im going to build an aluminum baffle/shroud to block it out and ill probably wrap the intake and MAF in something.

 

Yes massa, what hole do you wanna fuck me in today massa? Imagine actually believing we have real freedom, LOL. More like freedumb.

Apparently todays hole was the smog hole.

So since I cleaned the battery terminals yesterday. The shit didn't pass, even though it passed. So now I have to go back and spend even more money after I drive the fucking thing 100 miles. Now to smog the truck its gonna be like $75. Fuck this state and country.

 

Drove aimlessly for 80 miles. Went back today. Dude put the handheld on it, said it was good, but his machine is down, so call back tomorrow. WTF. Probably just gonna go somewhere else and pay full price again.





At least the original owner sent the keys, albeit 3 weeks after he said he did.

 

Got some stuff in the mail.

 

I don't really like LED stuff in older vehicles. I just doesn't fit for me, but I decided to try them for the map light because they are poorly designed. All the light goes towards your face and not your lap. They were supposed to be 4000k in color but I doubt it. They were still too blue for me and even ending up blowing the fuse because they don't fit right. So, LED are out. Just gonna keep the tungsten and ND filter the top part of the diffuser. Maybe Ill try and find some warm color temp LED that will fit in the future.

 

Picked up some tools and decided to make a heat shield to try and keep the intake air temps down.














Would have liked to of done it a little more pro but its not too bad. It actually seems like its keeping the temps down by at least 5 degrees. Last night it was the same temp out and IAT was like 98. Tonight it was around 88-90. I still have a feeling my IAT is reading high. Ill have to check one of these mornings to see if the IAT is the same as the water.

Eventually Ill add a wrap around the intake. Next time I'm in the junkyard I'm going to look for a factory MAF too.

 

Crown King?

 

Hooked up the light switch relay panel.

Found ACC power by the battery. Used the 15amp PWR outlet.


Tested it with the key and it is ACC.


Tapped in with an add a fuse.




Went through the firewall right above the gas pedal. There was a blank body plug. Gonna have to find a new plug. It fell apart from all the engine heat. The banding in the photo is from the LED light.


I put the relay box on the passenger side under the hood.


This was the best spot I could find for the switch panel. It pretty much fits perfect. The ribbon cable goes down through the center console perfect.


The LEDs are too bright. Im gonna have to find a way to dim them. Either Im going to back into the harness an add a dimmer knob or tint the panel. The panel lights up green and then turns yellow when you press for on.


What it looks like with the markers on.

 

Del Sur Ridge

 

Went to the junk yard again.

Found some SR5 badges since you can't buy them anymore.



Found a MAF but I think they changed the MAFs in 99 to the style I have now. This one was in a 97/98. I didn't end up buying it.



Heres the haul today. Looks like I'm still buying stuff that doesn't work. For some reason I thought the kick panel under the steering column would work out of a 4runner but the parking brake is different. I really wanted that ball chiller to work. I still may use the ducting for the ball chiller since I think its the same.

Picked up 3 glovebox locks. 1 97 grey/blue, 1 92 grey/blue and a 97 brown. Also picked up the dome style map lights with mirror in grey/blue. 2 key ring lights. The newer style ac controller. grey armrest and the cable to try and make the fuel door work with the switch.

 

Major shoutout to !! They were very helpful checking if everything was in stock and helping me with all the extras I would need for the install. I ordered some 5100s and dakar leafs yesterday. I asked them on the phone if they could help me out with the shipping since I want to do a road trip Monday or Tuesday and the parts arrived today!!!!!

Major thumbs down to UPS. There was 3 boxes total and they only left 1. The other 2 boxes are still on the truck. Wheelers went through all that trouble to do they best humanly possible and UPS took a massive shit.

*update* pretty much fuck UPS. Just spoke with them and now the springs aren't being delivered till Monday. WTF. Nothing but excuses of why it wasn't delivered with the other box.

Definitely using Wheelers for my parts from here on out.

Everything but the Dakar leafs were delivered.


Got the 4 position version. Going with the 2nd one from the bottom and staying with stock springs.

 

On with the install.

I was able to do it without a spring compressor. It was pretty easy. All I did was loosen the 4 bolts by the lower steering knuckle and I had enough play to get it in and out. Even on the 2nd ring. I didn't loosen any of the steering alignment bolts.

While going under to look for jack points I noticed the fuel filter is from 2005. Thats great. Looks like Ill be doing that in a day or two.


Side by side on the lowest clip next to my current KYB Monomax.


2nd notch up from the bottom on the 5100.


As a side note that dewalt 3/8 impact is next to useless.



Heres the new Moog sway arm bushing I installed less than a month ago. Great quality.


Good thing I had these big ass channel locks.



IDK if the spacer matters but I put them in anyways.






Some more fuckery from the previous owner. I had to take the caliper off and spin it to get the twist out.


Fixed, although now I need to find the clip that holds the upper part of the brake line.